Somewhere recently someone had the same problem but I can't fine old post after several searches.
Well anyway, today I'm freshening up the front end and had to get that bolt out. Too little clearance regardless of rack position. i finally did some minor bodywork to provide more room to remove bolt, used long 1/2 extension bar and hammer to "adjust" body clearance and got the bolt out. Determined that the bolt used had about 3 more threads than needed, so a little grinding to shorten it for easy installation now.
One side done, don't think i can get a grinding wheel in on other side to shorten bolt overhang but will have a look.
Anyone else had this experience ??

Also saw that the aft end of torsion bar had some abrasion wear about 1" from beginning of spline, so I polished this off smooth and repainted bar. Some PO had not replaced the rear seal so I don't know if this helps keep bar centralized. New seals ordered now and I will relieve rear opening in housing to insure clearance.
Many years ago I suffered a broken torsion bar due to corrosion pitting induced stress fracture in a 70 teener i had way back, so I'm careful to insure bar is very smooth and well painted.

The foam seals have no affect on centering the torsion bars. The rub mark is pretty common.

After 38 years the aft end OEM rubber bushings at the front suspension had taken a permanent sag which caused the torsion bars to rub against the ID of the A-arm.
This destroyed the protective coating and started wearing into the bars.
Way back i had a bar fracture from a corrosion pit that propagated into total fracture.
Concerned that this would also occur now with the wear and corrosion starting on my new project, I replaced the worn OEEM aft bushings and polished are repainted the torsion bars. With the new poly-graphite bushings (from the bird) the bars now again sit centrally within the A-arms.
Heres what the old bushings looked like after removal, not bad with a little help from a propane torch.
Click to view attachment