Shifting is usually the shift rod bushings. Follow the shift rod from the shifter back to the transmission and move side to side, up and down and look for slop/trashed bushings.
Brakes = Check pads, check rear brake pad clearance and most important, bleed brakes and replace the brake fluid.

Regarding the speedometer, its either the speedometer angle drive on transmission, cable or speedometer in that order. Unscrew the cable off of the angle drive from the transmission. Try to turn the speedometer drive on the angle drive by hand. If it turns its broken and needs to be replaced. If it doesn't turn, put the cable back on, remove the speedometer and see if the cable end is spinning when you go for a drive. You can also do this to test the angle drive. If the cable is spinning while you drive, you will know you have a good angle drive and cable. If that looks good, you have a bad speedometer. get it rebuilt or find another one.

Thanks Steve!


Here's my gearshift lever. Is this anything like stock?

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Hi,
Re Photo of peddle cluster, Check clutch return spring it appears to be fitted backwards.
It should pull peddle back onto rubber stopper. Needs to be removed from shaft and rotated and refitted to act in the correct direction.

Nope, the clutch pedal spring is installed to pull the pedal to the floorboard. The pic is correct.

The shift knob looks original, but the lever? Uhm, not so much.

Rust around the pedal cluster can indicate a leaky master cylinder. Brake fluid will make the original plastic bushings in the pedal cluster swell and creak.

The throttle pedals have a hinge inside the rubber. This can get rust (see: brake fluid leak) and will get sticky and crunchy and eventually wobbly. The 911 pedals are not identical but can be used as a replacement.

--DD

I discovered my defroster blowers, reverse lights, wipers and windshield washer (not stock) don't work. Not really looking forward to trouble shooting the electrics. Any words of wisdom, or at least of encouragement? My car seems to have about 90% of the wiring disconnected -- is this normal?

Not normal. Sounds like someone else has been trying to "fix" it already.

The heater blower is most often a problem with the electrical contact under the handle on the center tunnel. There's a wire that goes to there which gets grounded when the handle gets pulled up high enough. That triggers the blower relay on the relay board, sending power to the blower.

The relay can also be a problem, as can the connections from the wiring harnesses to the relay board.

Back-up lights are triggered by the sender in the side of the transmission. When reverse is selected, a pin sticks out into the sender, which causes the two wires plugged into it to be shorted together. That sends power to the back-up lights.

The wipers get power from the fuse block up under the dash. There's at least one relay involved in the works as well.


I don't see a single point of failure for all of those, so it is likely multiple separate issues.

--DD

Well, things are perhaps looking up today. I discovered I do have high beams, no idea what I was trying to doing with them the other day.

The washer pump wires are clearly cut. I am hoping it's just a matter of reconnecting them, although I imagine they were cut for a reason in the first place.

My wipers do work, but only if I slightly nudge the stalk upward. If I push it all the way up, they stop moving. Is there a switch or something in the steering column that needs replacing?

Can anybody solve my wiper problem, while I sit on my couch and watch the Raptors beat the Nets?

I've searched the forum, but I couldn't find any help with the wipers. Do all 914's have the two speed wipers? My stalk only has one 'on' position, not two. Perhaps the first detent is broken?

I now have my washer wired into a pushbutton switch, and the wipers wired into a temporary toggle switch until I can source a new wiper switch. A bit of progress. I have no idea how the rest of you guys can accomplish insane amounts of work in a single day.

Next up is the defrost blowers. I am still confused about the whole heat/defrost system. I understand there is supposed to be a fan in the engine compartment that will push air through the heat exchangers. I also see what looks like two fans below the windshield -- are these the defroster fans? Do they run off a separate circuit and switch?

The heater blower/fresh air/defroster blower set up is very interesting. So interesting that I completely don't get it.!

Do you have fog lights? That whole set up is interesting too. Apparently (or at least this is what I've been told) the fogs ground THRU the high beam filaments so when the high beams come on, the ground is gone and the fogs go out?? I dunno .. LOL

I do have fog lights, and I don't think they are working either! I'm pretty sure that I don't need them to get my safety though.

Looks like it was originally painted Zambezi green. My favorite color.

Yep! Maybe I'll go back to the original next time, although I'm torn between the Zambezi and the Ravenna greens.

There are a number of valves in the system that are controlled by push-pull cables, as well as the fans.

The engine fan blows air into the heat exchangers. If the heater lever is pulled up all the way, the heater blower also blows air into the exchangers. The air gets warmed up, and then the "flapper valves" will either dump it out under the car, or will direct it into the hoses running through the longs.

Those go up into the dash, into the distribution system. That uses valves that either direct the air down into the footwell, or up to the windshield. Those are controlled by the red slider on the dash.

There are separate valves that control the fresh-air system. Similar to the hot air, the middle slider on the dash directs the fresh air up to the windshield or down to the footwell. The upper slider opens a valve that lets air in from the inlet on the cowl, and when you slide it far enough to the right it turns on the fresh air blower that lives up in the dash. (There's only one of those, BTW.)

There are a bunch of bits, and getting the cables right can be pretty fiddly. But it's reasonably straight-forward in concept.

--DD

I don't have the hot air blower, but I need to get air blowing on the windshield in order to pass the safety inspection. Should the fresh air blower work with the stock wiring setup, but with the heater blower disconnected? I am attempting to follow the current flow diagram, but I only partially understand it.

Well, success! I was able to get the fresh air blower to work on the slow and medium speeds, which is good enough for now!

Now to put everything back together and see if it will pass inspection!

Having no Hi speed on the fan is often a problem on the control. The plastic melts and raises up keeping the slider contact from touching the board. You might be able to undo the bolt that holds the control and slide it out enough to access it. Will try to get a picture.
Bruce
Edit. This one is starting to melt.

Where is the bolt located for removing the control?

It is located under the dash right behind the blower/air mixture controls. It is a bolt that has a 10mm head (as are many of the bolts on the 914). The tab that holds the controls onto the inner firewall is actually just out of the picture that Bruce posted above. If you put your head under the dash, you'll see the tab and the bolt holding the controls to the firewall right next to where the radio is.

I think I discovered why my reverse lights aren't working. I assume this is the switch:

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The wires are either cut, or just torn. Do I just need a standard round crimp on push-in connector on each of the two individual wires?

If the switch doesn't work once I reconnect the wires, can it be removed without any special precautions (ie without any little parts falling out, or transmission fluid draining)?

Yep just connect them up no perticular wire it is just a ground switch!




There is a pin so be careful not to loose it! And yes you can loose some fluid!

It looks a little like the wires for the reverse lights may be inside that sheathing in the upper-left of your photo. There should be two wires, gray with a brown stripe. If you touch them together, the reverse lights should turn on (if the key is on). The wires look to have been cut off short, so you will have to extend them.

You can use bullet connectors to push into the holes in the switch. I don't know where to get the OEM round-nose connectors, but I think the regular cheapie male bullet connectors work.

It's nice to have the rubber boot that goes over the switch; it will help keep dirt out of it and also hold the wires a little better.

--DD

Here are the original sized solder on bullet ends
http://www.stoddard.com/356-1/electrical/b...652-102-10.html
Jim

Wasn't there a thread about the dumb things we've done to our 914's? I did two today.

First of all, I was trying to fix a short in the hazard/turn signal circuit. Turns out I had pinched a wire in the turn signal switch when I reassembled it back into the steering column.

Secondly, I spent about 1/2 hour trying to figure out why the side marker lights weren't flashing when I turned on the turn signals. Uhhhhh, I think I've figured that one out now too...

Well, thanks mainly to Eric's rebuild kit and how-to video, I now have working rear brakes. They aren't pretty yet, but they grab and let go!

Next step, safety certification!

Today is a big day! The car still needs a ton of work, but at least it's now legal and back on the road!



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Even lucked out and got myself a nice Canadian beaver license plate!

Mmm, Canadian beaver...and you can still enjoy a LaBatt's while watching...

Well, likely had the car out of the garage for the last day until next year. Dumped some stabilizer in the gas, ran the engine a bit, and took the battery out. Still have to fog the cylinders.

Anything else I need to do for winterizing? I am particularly worried about the brake calipers seizing up.

I haven't had any problems with my calipers seizing, my garage is not heated, but it is attached so it doesn't freeze. What do you mean when you " fog your cylinders" ?

Ian Stott
Moncton
Canada

Fogging = just taking out the spark plugs and spraying some oil in there. I do it for my wife's outboard motor for the winter, so I assume I should do it on the car too.

I have a '13 Whiteout FRS. Put 24K on it so far this year. great cars.Click to view attachment

I wasn't able to inspect the longs before I purchased the car (I know, I know...), and when I jack the passenger side up, the door gap widens a bit, so I was expecting the worst. Finally took the rocker panel off today, and here's what it looks like:

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It's not as bad as I was expecting, however, I'm guessing that the undercoating is hiding a lot. Should I just scrape it all off?

That bolt and rectangular plate worries me. what is it for/where does it go?

That was holding on the rocker panel. Not stock?

No.

Start digging.

Is that long covered in POR-15?

I've never seen POR-15 in real life, so I don't know. It's a pretty thick rubbery coating, I was thinking it was just standard undercoating.

If I had to guess at this point, I'd say those brackets were added to space out the rocker panel a bit from the long. I've been driving up and down the dirt roads around our house, and there was maybe 2 little stones stuck back there, that's it. There was also a big rubber space at the back.

Is there normally anything holding on the rocker panels in that area where those brackets are now?

No, the bolt is not stock. You have to get all that undercoating off and see what you've got there.

There should not be undercoating in there.

Unfortunately, that is hiding something bad I would have to guess.

For sure that area has been repaired before.

John

Alright, I'll try to do some scraping today and post more pictures tonight.

One nice thing is Restoration Design is a Canadian company

If you are serious I'd invest in a Lincoln 130 welder with gas and learn to weld.
If not pay Mike914 to do your longs, but if you DIY the labour you will have paid will buy your welder.
Personally the welder will last you a lifetime for many projects and repairs. You might find one on Kijiji. If you have a TSC in Kingston buy the MIG gas tank it pays for itself in 3 years.

I'd be up for welding, but I'm worried my garage (bare wood floors, OSB walls and ceiling) would be a major firetrap. What do you think?

There is a guy just a few km away that does restoration work, mostly on bugs, so I might talk to him first.

Well, here we go. First, here's the passenger side door gap before and after jacking it up from the center of the long:

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Here's the jack post area:

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Here you can see the area that was previously repaired:

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And here's a shot inside the back of the long:

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So, first question is do you think that damage shown will allow the door gap to shift by that amount, or do you think there's more structural rust elsewhere? The rest of the long appeared pretty solid to my inexperienced eyes.

Second, where do I go from here? Cut away more? Clean out the inside of the longs somehow??

there's always more rust. Usually made worse by "previous repairs".

The chassis has structural damage that was improperly repaired. You need to fix it right to make it safe. If you don't have welding and fabrication skills you need to find a shop familiar with the 914 chassis issues and get it fixed. There are lots of threads on the forum where guys have fixed similar rust issues.