i need to put a shim under the ball that fork sits in.what size socket and socket depth needed to clear the ball ,not much room in there?

errr, OK, I believe the ball flats (for wrench) are 13mm and probably need a deep well socket . The fork is held on the ball by a little clip held on the fork by a 6mm socket head bolt. so once the fork is off, an open end/box end wrench will prob fit... but I don't see how you'll access these with tranny installed and if tranny is already separated, access is easy... so there is alot of room...

PS, if tranny installed, why not just drop the tranny alone? Support the engine and remove tranny. Search here for advice in old posts....

trans is out,i dont think there is enough meat for a box end wrench,its meant for a socket ,i dont have a deep one to figure out size,close to 13-14mm i think,but hoping to hear from someone whose taken it out to shim.

You will need a 13mm deep socket. I recall having to make a special thin walled socket with the grinding wheel.
Where in Nor Cal?

Ah, sorry, didn't remember about the recess, it'd been a long time. Still don't remember thinning the wall of the socket anyway. Not too many applications on 914's of 14mm tools come to mind (valve adjust jam nuts only one I can think of now, maybe one other way back in the cobwebs...)

try a 1/4" drive deep socket.

its a 14mm deep. but you have to grind/thin down the first 3/8 of an inch on the end of the socket. so it will fit down the well.

14mm deep that needs the end beveled to fit in the recess.

im in fairfax,marin county

14mm or 9/16" deep socket with a very deep contact area. Most sockets are broached pretty shallow, and won't clear the ball. I can get you a Snap On part number if you'd like.

The Cap'n

I shimmed mine too. I also used some permatex ultra copper on the threads and washer.

Ok I'll bite, hasn't heard of this, what is the purpose or reason for shimming the ball, to compensate for wear

Jeff

I believe it is to correct the geometry after a flywheel cut.

yes, i would like snap on part number for that socket.

the purpose of shimming the ball is to move the throwout fork foward (i installed a new flywheel,clutch,)if there is not enough room to fully engage throwout bearing ,it increases the distance the arm can travel.im doing this while drivetrain is out to avoid having to take it out again and re adjust.if your clutch works fine ,then this is not an issue.

14mm sears 3/8" drive socket

Click to view attachment

14mm socket that needs to be ground down to fit.

now i have to buy a grinder at harbor freight,need one anyway.who designed such difficult access at porsche?

Snap On "FMS14". It's a 14mm semi-deep 12 point chrome socket. No grinding. About 20 bucks. One recently sold under the old number ("S6122") on Ebay for around $4, and one under the new number went for around $9. You might look into other 12 point deep, or semi-deep sockets. What's important here is the "broach depth", the depth of the contact surface before the inside of the socket returns to a shoulder. You need the drive surface to be deep enough to clear the ball and engage the hex. I would be happy to loan you mine, but the round trip postage would nearly equal the cost of buying one for yourself.

The Cap'n

yes that is correct.
So, you should ask the machinist how much was removed to ensure you use the correct size shim.

rich

Shim? Jeez, it aint that specific. Put another washer under it, put teflon tape on the threads as it will now leak with 2 washers under the pivot, and call it good. You just need to move it forward, you will not need to measure how far or any of that.

getting a deep 14 mm is easy,but as Dr Evil said,its the hex at base of ball that has almost no room on sides to engage a socket,thats why he suggests grinding,1/4 drive deep might clear it.

found the snap on truck ,got a 14mm deep 6 point(its all he had)worked just like you said,no grinding required.found one washer under ball,added another,will put a little teflon tape and its done.thanks all

Yea I use a fat washer to shim. I have a bus flywheel and I can remember what t/o bearing. A little bit different in the dimensions. Your good Jeff.

The one I described works. It's worked for 30 years, and I doubt it'll encounter a clutch pivot ball in a 901 or 914 transaxle that it won't work on. No grinding, no torch, no hammer, no no. Live with it. I wouldn't have called it out as the one to use if I didn't believe in it ..................

The Cap'n. I think I'm done here ..............................................

If you installed a NEW flywheel you don't need to shim the throw out forks, if fact you don't want to shim it. If the flywheel is and has not been resurfaced the geometry will be correct.

Jim

Just received a brand new FMS14 socket direct from Snap On. It does not fit. No thinner than my 1/4 drive gearwrench 14mm socket. Grrrrrrr