So my clutch cable on 74 2.0L is starting to fray at the pulley. The fraying is occurring where the cable exits the "top side" of the pulley as it goes towards the adjusting nut. Pretty much right at the pulley.

Is this the common area for these cables to break? Or is it out of adjustment in some way that caused this excessive wear?

I can order a new cable from Pelican Parts for $16.50, but is there an alternative (better?) cable to order that is more durable? Any other items I would need to order with this (pulley parts, lock nuts, etc...)?

And how hard of a job is this replacement?

Not a hard job. I have heard pros and cons on more expensive clutch cables. Haynes manual is great for this job.

They like to break at the pulley. Replace now before you get stranded. Plus you will lose valuable hardware at the end of the cable.

I carry a spare in my trunk!

http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=34340

its pretty easy to do the I got one from FLAPS and its seems to be ok so far

Just be sure not to wrap around the accelorator cable! Otherwise very easy!

Sort of on topic: Where can we get replacement clutch pulleys?

PP says NLA.

I would prefer one made from Aluminum. Who makes them?

Auto Atlanta

http://www.autoatlanta.com/Porsche-Clutch-...442325502D.html


914 Rubber

http://shop.914rubber.com/914-Clutch-pulle...m?categoryId=-1

914Rubber.com

Buy 2 and keep one in the car to install on the road one day.

You want a plastic {Nylon / Delron} pulley, not metal. . metal ones will cause the cable to fray sooner. . far easier to change a pulley than a cable. .

Thanks all!

I looked at 914 rubber first but didnt find it first time thru
Order placed!

Boxsterfan,

I replaced my clutch cable for the last time back in 1979. Up until that time I kept the nylon pulley and cable clean and dry. It frayed and then separated. Back then, I ordered two clutch cables from Stoddard in Cleveland, so I would have one as a spare. I still have the second one as a "spare", and the replacement from 1979 is still on the car, and in fine shape. The solution to eliminate the fraying/separation of the clutch cable around the pulley assembly is to keep that area very well lubricated . I routinely inspect the cable and pulley and keep it slathered in white grease. As soon as the grease gets dirty and marginal looking, I wipe off the old lubricant and smear clean grease onto the cable & pulley. I'd say 30+ years on that cable validates my maintenance regime.

Paul

I made a bracket with a series of holes that I could keep moving it outward until I got to where I could get all the slack out of the cable. I have the pulley laying horizontal. I used a pulley off of a garage door spring, with a roller bearing in it. Just had to trim off about an 1/8" off the diameter for it to fit down into the saddle. Used square tubing to space it to where it goes towards the fork at an acceptable angle, and mounted the bracket to the same spot as the original. It pushes much easier.

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i just replaced mine a month ago. fairly easy and i am not an expert wrencher. i ordered the terry cable from pelican parts. it seems more heavy duty compared to reg clutch cable.

Thanks for all the tips here on this thread. I ordered a couple "regular" clutch cables from PP to arrive this week. My car already has a delron pulley from the PO. I'll take the advice of keeping it greased up as well.

Changed out my clutch cable today. Not a bad/hard project, but having to take out the center console a bit annoying.

Glad I changed it though as this is what I was shifting gears with:

Quick question about clutch cable adjustment:

Now that I have my new clutch cable in, shifting is definitely better. At what point should the clutch be engaging when pushing in the peddle? Closer to the top?

Mine engages/disengages pretty close to the top. I have also heard that the cable may stretch some after a bit of use.

It will stretch so adjustment maybe needed in a week or so.

I had to adjust mine 3 times over a month of driving before it settled down!

What are some of the advantages of a horizontal pulley setup ??? Does the cable really know what the orintation is ??? Not trying to be a wise acre...as I have seen a few run the horizontal , Racer Chris maybe .

Jack

Funny... my 914 doesn't have a pulley. The clutch cable comes right out of the firewall and connects to the throwout arm.






I used a 71 911 trans case and the 225mm pull type clutch. That gives a stronger clutch, no clutch cable pulley, and no pressure on the clutch cable tube in the body.

Next stop for me is a hydraulic clutch.

Gets it out of the way of some header designs. That's the main thing I know of.

Makes a nice shelf for dirt to accumulate on, too...

--DD

So last weekend, I adjusted my new clutch cable after 1 week of driving. I ended up tightening the nut in a couple full turns. Now this week, it feels like it needs adjusted some more already.

I assume I should just be adjusting the nut a couple more full turns in each time until it stops stretching? Also, I believe I should be feeling clutch engagement/disengagement fairly highly on the clutch pedal?

The shifting is good, but getting into first gear at stop stop is hit/miss. Sometimes super smooth and sometimes alot of jiggling to get it into gear. Also, second gear seems a little rough to get into at times. I'm guess I should have a look at my firewall bushing this weekend also.

Pull off the carpet over the center tunnel. Look through the hole in the gear shift lever base as you push the clutch pedal. If you see the cable moving left-to-right, the clutch tube has broken loose and you need to fix it.

--DD

Clutch engages fairly high, not on the floor.

Paul

Thanks, I'll have a look this weekend since my center console is still out of the car.

I feel mine is that way.....seems like for shifting I have to get the pedal almost all the way to the floor, but I feel it engage into the next gear (ie going from 1st to 2nd) pretty high on the pedal.

TIA...