So, my key doesn't work on the front trunk lock, glove box lock, rear trunk lock and passenger door lock. Only the ignition and driver door locks work.

For some reason, now my drivers door lock stopped working. I can lock it, but I can't unlock it. Luckily I had my targa top off today although I got some strange looks from people as I climbed into the car.

So how can I get all new locks around the car? I would certainly like to get them all keyed the same (would skip the glove box altogether if I needed to be a CSOB).

Try here:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...hl=re-key+locks

Reconfiguring the locks so you only use one key is easy. There is an excellent thread by markB showing how to do it.

See: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...44&hl=rekey

Also: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...c=66709&hl=

Thanks for the replies.

I put up a WTB ad for a full lock set after looking in the classifieds and seeing some that have been sold there before. I also see that "tweet" does some rekey services or sells the tumblers and springs so that you can do it yourself.

pm tweet. he'll help you diy or send it to him to do it all. He is a pleasure to do business with.

My experience has been, if your door locks are not working properly, (locking not locking) it may be they simply need to be cleaned up. I had trouble with my drivers side just recently. It would lock but not always unlock and sometimes it wouldn't open even when it wasn't locked. I look the latch assembly out of the door, cleaned it up with solvent, turns out it was really gummed up. lubed it, put it back in the door and now it works great. Once you get all the locks keyed the same, take some time to clean the latch assemblies and lubricate them. Makes a big difference.
Cheers, Elliot

Chances are you're dealing with old worn keys. or a new copy made off a worn key. . .
Here is a little trick. . insert the key in a tumbler. . disassemble the lock, removing the tumblers from the unit with the key inserted. . now look at the brass plate inserts. . you'll probably see one or two that stick up a little, preventing the tumbler assy from turning freely in the lock. . carefully file those so all the brass plates are even with the tumbler body on both sides. . spray with cleaner and oil afterward. .
Reassemble and install back in the car. . should work properly if the pins were the problem. . If still hard to turn, clean and lube the lock latch assembly. .
don't pull the key out because all the brass plates and a bunch of tiny springs will pop out

Sounds similar to the problem I had when I bought my car. Turns out I had a valet key. I got a new master key (from Tweet), got it cut at a locksmith, and all my locks magically worked!

I agree with contacting tweet , he's got the stuff. As I recall McMark also has the waffers for sale , either one could do it for you . Just be aware if your locks have the "Valet " waffers in them , usually 3 out of the 5 , normally the glove box , front trunk, rear trunk also , only the master ,black headed , key will work all locks . You could also have them rewaffered to use both the master and valet if you perfer, just a matter of not putting in the valet waffers in certain locks , as in today's time I wouldn't let some valet parker park my car . Your call , and yes to cleaning up the door mechanisims goes a loooong way to proper operation.

Jack

Is there an ideal lubricant for the latches and hinges and stuff? I'm going to do a re-key, replace the door handle cams, and need to really clean up and lube the handles. I always could use some of the Slip-2000 EWL from my M4, but I figure something actually intended for door handles might work better than rifle lube.


Then again, that stuff worked wonders on the hinges in the apartment. No more squeaking when I sneak out in the morning for work.

Did I only send the valet key?.... Whoops

Seriously, that always drove me nuts as well. I hope you get it resolved.

Best,

Bike chain lube. Get the thick stuff and put on all the pivots and wear points. Lube up all the pull cables (front trunk and engine lid) as well.

I know I'm too impatient to DIY mine, so when I get there I'll send mine to tweet.

C'mon Bruce! With all the pristine parts you sell, you offer up this hack!?!

DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT do this to your locks! Call someone who knows what they are doing. A locksmith...like ME! Get a new key cut. Don't modify your lock cylinder to work with a worn key. No matter how much of a CSOB you may be.

I use silicone grease (sparingly) and silicone spray. Silicone is safe to use on the inner seals. Other lubricants that are solvent based petroleum products degrade rubber, plastic, etc.

One problem we have with these old locks is that someone used graphite in the lock.

This is fine IF done properly. If the lock has had petroleum products used previously and then you try to use graphite, it makes a paste and gums up quickly.

The only time you should use graphite on locks is if new or taken out and cleaned properly.

Taking the entire assembly out and cleaning the entire assembly while having the locks rekeyed is the correct fix.

And..... why did you have to climb in?
Couldnt you just reach inside and......Unlock the door?

If you clean the door latch make sure you lube it real good.

I had cleaned mine but did "too good" of a job and it got hard to open. In fact I was not able to open the doors one day and then got lucky. I soaked them in penetrating oil (bought a gallon of pb blaster) for a few hours. they work great now, in fact better then at any time since I have had the car.

So if and when you clean the latch make sure you lube it up really well. Rekeying is easy and tweet is good to work with and has the parts.