For the V8 conversion guys...

Do those heater systems sold by Renegade and Rod Simpson work? Do they defrost the windows? Keep you warm? Do the AC systems work?

I always wanted to know....

Bill P.

Me too! I'd also like to see any pics of how they look installed.. I'm curious how intrusive they are.

Bill,
PM or email George "tesserra". He has a Renegade system installed. Not sure if Brad installed it though. i requires some cutting under the dash. Here's a pic
Felix

another

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I do not know how well those systems work but my homemade heater setup works great through the stock vents and only cost about $30.00
Mark

Bill,
Yes the heater does work and it does defrost.
I bought the car from a guy in Oregon and he used it all the time. I used it a lot in the winter but it doesn't seem strong enough to warm the car on the cool spring nights with the top off. I don't think it moves enough air when I compare it to my 76 2.0 with a perfect heating system, but it is better than nothing and it works with the original dash controls.

George

Bill,
It just dawned on me, you don't need w/c heat in your race car! Are you thinking V8 again?
Felix

I have the under dash heater AC unit from Renegade (which I think comes from a company called "Classic Aire" (sp?)). The heat is very hot, and the AC is very cold. 2 issues with it though: 1) Because it is under dash, it is entirely self contained, and doesn't use the stock vents. Therefore is doesn't blow through the stock vents, so you can't direct the air flow onto the windshield. 2) Because the whole thing is three feet from your ears, the fan is pretty loud. It's not obnoxiously loud, but it is not as quite as a modern air control system.

While I was at Renegade this fall, the guys showed me how the unit could be installed under the cowl and use the stock vents. It would involve losing the glove box and the radio spot, and sounded like a ton of work to correct a situation that doesn't bother me much anyway. When I drove the car in late fall, the temps were in the 20-30' range several times, and I was able to keep the windows clear and my sissy butt toasty warm by having the heat on, with the AC turned to the minumum to keep the air dry. My car is inside at night though. If you were looking to remove frost from the windshield, that probably would not work well enough.

If your time frame is "sometime this year" and have several big bills, I will have this system available. Completely under cowl.

Mockup pic (misplaced my prototype pics)

QUOTE (aircooledboy @ Jan 17 2005, 10:16 AM)

I have the under dash heater AC unit from Renegade (which I think comes from a company called "Classic Aire" (sp?)). The heat is very hot, and the AC is very cold. 2 issues with it though: 1) Because it is under dash, it is entirely self contained, and doesn't use the stock vents. Therefore is doesn't blow through the stock vents, so you can't direct the air flow onto the windshield. 2) Because the whole thing is three feet from your ears, the fan is pretty loud. It's not obnoxiously loud, but it is not as quite as a modern air control system. While I was at Renegade this fall, the guys showed me how the unit could be installed under the cowl and use the stock vents. It would involve losing the glove box and the radio spot, and sounded like a ton of work to correct a situation that doesn't bother me much anyway. When I drove the car in late fall, the temps were in the 20-30' range several times, and I was able to keep the windows clear and my sissy butt toasty warm by having the heat on, with the AC turned to the minumum to keep the air dry. My car is inside at night though. If you were looking to remove frost from the windshield, that probably would not work well enough.

Interesting. When I was at renegade, Scott told me you could just cap off the stock air valve inlets and blow air through the system backwards to get defrost. Now I'm confused. He didn't say anything about losing the radio and glovebox.

It was 8 degrees here in Detroit today and my $30 system kept me plenty warm and defrosted the windshield just fine.

Mark

Bondo,

Ya know, as they were explaining the whole thing to me, I was thinking it ought to be possible to use the unit under the dash and direct the air through the stock system. The key of course would be redirecting the air flow. I haven't had the dash unit out, so I haven't opened it up. I can picture some pretty significant problems trying redirect the air if it is set up the way I expect it to be inside. It will likely require at least a 90' turn, which is gonna hurt air flow pretty bad. And you can't turn the whole unit around, or you would be looking at the hoses and wiring from the driver's seat. I will probably sniff it out at some point, but I have bigger issues to sort out first. So, since it works as is, I haven't spent too much time thinknig about it.

For just heat you can put a core in the stock fresh air box. (see my website) $10* from pick-a-part, from a Toyota van. Some trimming and heat molding and you're good to go.
*valve, hoses, et al extra.

My original '73 had the factory installed under dash AC. I recall no issues with it, and I remember it worked great....not much cabin to cool, and the car was BLK/BLK. My car of course had the stock heating and fresh air system.

With my V8 conversion car, I think I'll go a similar route. It looks like the Hot Rod Air under dash unit is quite similar to that dealer installed one. I'll have to figure out a way to get heat to the cabin; may do a heater core(s) where the heater boxes attatch. (Or) Maybe Chris' core in the fresh air box would be simpler??

Andy

well for my suby conversion, which for those who want to know will be getting lots of time in the next 2 weeks, i got the 500 bucks to throw at it

the suby motor has a seperate inlet and out let for the heater core and it has to be at least looped, you can't cap it off. so what i plan on doing which will use stock controls for the heat. first i will get a heater core or motorcycle radiator ( prefered for bleeding ) and box it in with blower hooked up to the exsisting lever in the cab. then i will just use hoses to plumb to the exsisting tubes in the longs. simple as stock system pull lever for heat, i will have it blowing full hot and just use the fresh air fan to cool it down, i would think 200 degree air will make it through the longs with plenty of heat left.

now for a SBC version just put a tee in the supply and return to the motor, and in the summer you could remove the tube and just let it blow hot air, for some extra free cooling

QUOTE

If your time frame is "sometime this year" and have several big bills, I will have this system available. Completely under cowl.

Chris,
Keep me informed, I will need a ready to go system later this year...Hey weren't you saying this year LAST year?
Felix