In the middle of the painting on a 914/6 GT . All the fabrication and body work and priming were done at The Metal Surgeon, in Denver Colorado. The color for this one will be color code 20E Signal Orange, will post picks as they are available. Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment Click to view attachment Click to view attachment Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

Okay , well Im pretty sure I attached 8 photos

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This 914/6 GT conversion by the one and only The Metal Surgeon in Denver Co. Is now in the paint shop for a 100% rotisserie refinishing Signal Orange.

I guess you can't rely doing things on the cell phone .

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2 coats of Glasurit Epoxy was applied, flashed for an hour before Schutz undercoating was sprayed.

Interesting front trunk floor, is that a homemade patch?

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Come to find out the Beige Schutz undercoating was no longer avaliable, so no mixing color with undercoating was no longer an option. Black is what it is then.

I wasn't there when The Metal Surgeon fabricated this car but it would of been made by hand . I'm just the painter on this one . He will tell you the story once he sees this thread.

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White Glasurit sealer was needed for proper coverage of the signal orange.

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Used Glasurit 109 clear with a 40% additive of matte paste and reduced 2:1:5% for this Satin mix . Perfect OEM match .

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Front trunk may have been fabricated for front oil cooler.

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Full interior color and Clear (E20E) Signal Orange , all Glasurit products for a close to an exact match.

Looks great...!

Maybe a daft question from a paint novice; but I have my tub on a rotisserie like this having stripped the paint off the bottom and sprayed with two coats of epoxy primer.

Is it necessary to plug fixing holes like the suspension mount points to stop the paint filling them up?...if so, what's the best way to do that?

Thx, Ollie.

I found that the cheapest way to do that is roll up pieces of tape and smash it up in there. And yeah its a good idea to cover all of the holes and threaded stems for easier assembly. After all the undercoating and top coats you may strip out some threads for sure.

I always used cotton balls to plug the threaded holes.

Looking good man. Painting on a rotisserie is definitely the way to go. (That's a REAL nice one BTW.)

Looks like we are neck in neck. I opted away from the flares. I want it to look like the 4 it once was, but not act like it.

Stopped painting for awhile in order to get the fuel oil and engine mounts set so I don't have to scratch everything after painting.

Which meant cleaning, plating and painting the engine intake and exterior parts...

So maybe we aren't neck in neck.

Could the small hole be plugged with foam ear plugs or would the paint melt the foam? Just wondering. at a powder coating shop I saw what looked like silicon plugs used but they are not using the solvent that spray paint uses. Gordon

I know painters that use ear plugs , your not soaking them in paint so they won't melt just the cost of using 20 ear plugs doesn't seem profitable to me, cotton balls are to big and don't want the fuzz strings laying in the paint job so rolling up tape balls fit perfect.

Yeah I'm just painting the car , metal work was done by The Metal Surgeon and the owner of the car will be assembling the car. So I hope he will take his time and be careful. This car is going to have a absolute "Show Car" finish on it .

I can't wait to see this in person. Owner is a great dude.

I'll get The Metal Surgeon aka Jon on board one day to do something like that. Be a show piece for sure

Can you please provide contact info? Just in case one of us hit the Mega and would like you to manage the painting process.
Thanks inadvance.

Gladly , Name is Ryan C#7203153808 B#7203551718
Email EmmelsEnamel@yahoo.com. Even if you have any Questions , I'd be gladly to give some advice , tips , or tricks of the trade.

for the level Ryan is at in his painting skills he is by far most cost efficient than any big name in the painting world out there.

Boy, when the time comes. .it looks as though working with you two will be an option. Enjoy your day

Well thank you , always looking forward to working with new people from all over the country.

Yeah thank you , It's great working with new people from all over the country. Nice to know our quality is sought out not just in our city but from all over.

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Couple more pictures of the shell in the booth. The end is near.

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Can't go wrong with Sata Rp's to lay down the Glasurit base, these guns cannot be topped . Plus using no sealer under the base helps everything lay down that much smoother. Sealer has a tendency to rob the solvents from the base coats and will ultimately orange peel slightly making the Clear coat lay down exactly the same way as the base lays.

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Now that the color and Clear has been laid it's time to wetsand all the jambs and exterior panels with 800 grit again. RE clear for that show quality ,super slick, no impurities what so ever panels.

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Color is was more vibrant under the sun . Even though it's a 70's color and muted I have grown to like this color. Can't wait to see it fully assembled.

Emmel, beautiful job! As a novice I'm confused by your "no sealer" comment. Can you explain? Would that still apply if I wanted a single-stage paint job for everyday use?

TIA

Yeah definitely, well sealer was made for production purposes back in the late 90's because of the base coats were so transparent that they needed something to even out the color from what was underneath. So they first came in white , grey and dark grey so intermixing them 3 you could get close to a match for that color as you can . Meanwhile sealers will help with poor workmanship , like sand scratches and minor featheredge imperfections . It actually acts like a fast drying primer just over reduced. So with the extra solvents trapped in all of the sealer once you put color over that, the solvents from the color will get soak in to the sealer and the color won't lay down 100% smooth unless you do some sanding in between to get that smooth look so the clear coat will flow smooth . That process is known as pinching back and if you dont wait long enough in between color and clear that also will be happening to the clear coat and it will lose its sheen and look super orange peely . Clear coat follows all imperfections in the basecoat so thats why its so important to have the basecoat perfect if you want that show quality look . Makes the color way more vibrant too, They now make primers that can be tinted with the color being used for that vehicle. So it's way easier for the transparent colors to go on in 2-3 coats instead of 5-6 coats . Saves money and time in the end.

[quote name='3d914' date='Jun 14 2014, 08:09 AM' post='2050058']
[quote name='Emmel' post='2049547' date='Jun 12 2014, 07:20 PM']
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Can't go wrong with Sata Rp's to lay down the Glasurit base, these guns cannot be topped . Plus using no sealer under the base helps everything lay down that much smoother. Sealer has a tendency to rob the solvents from the base coats and will ultimately orange peel slightly making the Clear coat lay down exactly the same way as the base lays.
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Emmel, beautiful job! As a novice I'm confused by your "no sealer" comment. Can you explain? Would that still apply if I wanted a single-stage paint job for everyday use?

TIA
On using sealer it all depends on what sand paper grit you finish with hopefully it's 600 or 800. But sealer is usually fool proof so it helps on those small sand scratches you may have missed . And breakthrough s on the primer so it won't show through the topcoat like bullseyes.Sealer is pricey so I try to do without everytime.

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Wet sanded with 800 grit wet/dry re-masked and re-cleared with addition 2 coats of Glasurit clearcoat. Had a couple spots that needed a little color but shouldn't effect the color depth you'll get with the additional 2 flow coats of clear over the first stage of clearing.

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