Working on replumbing my new fuel pump. So I decided to loosen the nuts that cinch down the fuel tank output pipes. Big one came off without a hitch. The return line, that's another story. The aluminum nut totally stripped out. Steel bung threads are embedded with aluminum.

Has anyone bought the M18 * 1.0 die or thread restorer and cleaned those threads before? Kind of an odd sized thread.
Hate to give up on this tank.

Had the same problem, didn't want to buy a one time chaser (that's what plumbers call it). I took a dental pick and a wire wheel on my Dremel, and picked at the aluminum for a while. It eventually came clean.

My threads were damaged and I cleaned them up with a thread file. Took about 15 minutes but it worked like a charm

David

I'll pick up a new wire wheel on the way to the shop. Then I'll do some picking and see if I can get it.
Called Hall Tool. They have a die, but its $30. And they're not open on the weekends.

If the outside threads are totaled, you can tap threads on the inside and use a different fitting.

Depending on the OD of the die the second (return) fitting might to too close to thread the die on. A thread file will fit between the two fittings. One metric file has two ends and four sides per end yielding eight common thread pitches. A whole lot cheaper than 8 dies.

http://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Performance-...d/dp/B003BZLK6O

I have one of those. Won't fit up against the rib.
The wire wheel and the picks did pretty good. The thread file helped in a couple spots. I think if a had a steel nut I could finish it up .............

The aluminum one starts about 2 threads........... so i'm making progress.

Did a little more research. Looks like the M18*1.0 is the only spindle nut that Nissan/Datsun has ever used. Comes in a Dorman kit or in a five pack.
I think I'll still get the die if its narrow enough to fit between the threads and the flange. I still five more cars awaiting restoration..............

Die was a no go. Way too big. We have about .33" of space to work with. It would have needed about about .75" for the die to make a complete turn.

Stopped at my go to hardware store (Winks) to look for a nut. No go. They only went down to M18*1.5.

Ordered the Nissan spindle nuts at the flaps. Should be in first thing in the am.
I'm going make a thread restorer with one of them.

Nuts did the job!

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Cut a groove with a triangle file. Worked like charm.

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same problem. would you sell one of your nuts?
Rob

I can do that ..................
Going work in the middle of the night. So I might run out to my shop in the afternoon.

Can you confirm these are 18mm 1.0 threads? I need to do this as well. You might can make some decent money for these prepped with the "V" to cut threads for gas tanks.

I would buy one.

Confirm : 18m * 1.0.
Might give it some consideration. But I'd need to buy a bigger V vile. And something to clean the threads with.
When you start to tidy up the threads The main thing is to use oil cutting oil.
Then only turn about a 1/4 to 1/3rd of a turn. Back it off. Clean it again.
Rinse and repeat.

I knew it would come to this. Andy... time to shut'r down.

Sure, someone talks about selling a nut and Eric comes out of hiding.

Not hiding. "still" at the shop. As you can see, I still have to vaccum.

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Eric, vacuuming and drinking beer do not mix.

Thanks Cary.

I am having a tough time sourcing these. Where did you get yours? Is there a Dorman number?

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.p...&cc=1212174

O Reilly's Auto Parts

I would be glad to pay you for one plus mailing cost if you have an extra...with the v cut or not.........LMK...........Thanks.............Jerry

Thanks Cary.

O'Reilly's states not available in store or Online.

I'm with Jerry on buying spare from you.

EDIT: I see where eBay has them for $11.63 with Free Shipping. I will go that route.

Rock auto
Use 1995 Nissan Pickup. Brake/hub. Comes up as
Spindle Nut. Like $2.

Thanks Cary - order is placed (minimum 5 pieces) $22 shipped to the door.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecat...p;parttype=1616

I'm buying 2 pair of these to get something with new aluminum threads.
http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDetail...roductCode=3288

Then go to an AN6 to barbed fitting. Should make it quite a bit tidier under the tank. With the pump in the trunk I'll drain the tank with the firewall to engine fuel filter hose.

For those that need hoses and fittings. I use A1 Coupling on Tualatin Sherwood Rd.It's a commercial place, but great service even for the dinky do things I buy. Last time I was looking to replenish my supply of Oetiker clamps and they took back into the warehouse to take my pick of styles.

I am thinking about doing the same thing in the Spring when I pull my tank in the '74. I will watch your progress - thanks!

Another lesson from this experience. After you drain the tank of POR15 sealer and your letting it drip out the big sender and fill holes (upside down). Clean the threaded fittings and put the nuts back on loosely, or the sealer will set up on them. Tried putting on the CB fittings last night after they arrived. No go, too much sealer on them. They'll need to be tidied up with the steel nut, again.

Heading to the hose store this am looking for barbed AN/JIC fittings.

This is the exact issue I have - but I used Red Kote. I now have a mess and I don't know what to use as a solvent to help clean up the mess.

I will use the modified nuts as a thread chaser.

Good luck Cary.

I'll update from the shop in a coupe hours.

Had I little trouble at hose shop. They don't really deal in the small stuff. But we finally found what I was looking for.

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With my bunged up threads they were tough to get started and not go on cross
threaded. But you can see them sitting here with 2 gallons of gas checking for leaks.
Dry as a bone. But I am going to mark the bottom of the tank .... never remove bad threads

I tested one of them on one of my other tanks. They went on smooth as silk. Nice product.
Note : They seal with an O-ring.

I'd say for cleaning the threads if the tank sealer is your only issue. Clean threads with the nut with the cuts in it. Oil as you go thru the cuts. I turn a 1/4, back up a 1/2. Rinse and repeat until you get to the bottom. I took it off once and cleaned the threads with a wire brush. Then use a new unused nut to tidy up the starter threads.

Looks like a job well done - thanks for documenting this repair so well - cheers!

Final couple shots ............
Tank with my notes on it.

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New look under the tank ..........
Zip tie is to take a slight kink out of the pressurized line

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New fuel pump layout in the trunk

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So tank is sitting there with a couple gallons in it checking for static leaks.
If it passes. I'll pressurize it this am.

The fittings? Is that an AN-6 to AN-4 reducer and then a AN-4 reducer? Where did you get those?

AN-6.
Ordered from CB Performance. Part was cheap. $7.
Shipping $15. Was here in 3 days.

No reducer. That is AN-6 to 5/16 barb.

Did the nut show up yet?

Yes it did. Arrived yesterday and worked like a charm. Thanks again.
Rob