Full Version: squeekie top
ive heard glycerine works but where do you source it?
Ear wax
QUOTE(PanelBilly @ Sep 23 2014, 11:23 AM) 
Ear wax
Honda (and I believe other Asian manufacturers) use a product called Shin-Etsu grease, non petroleum and doesn't stain (important for interior warranty work) and it silences squeaky window rubber, hatch rubber, door rubber etc. It ain't cheap but a tube would last me a year, working on Hondas constantly. Not every car needed it but a little of this stuff goes a long way and doesn't deteriorate your seals. You can use the extra for hair gel... 
Rite Aid, Wallgreens, etc...last time I bought it Rite Aid in a medium bottle for pretty cheap. Skip the glycerin in capsule form.
Baby suppositories
As attractive as the baby suppository solution sounds, you could also go to 914Rubber and replace your rear seal with the one Mikey sells that doesn't squeak. I use that one and have no roof squeaks. Or I don't think I do. It's been a couple of weeks since I drove with the top on...maybe I'm just forgetting.
not the for babies version. it comes in a plastic bottle in liquid form.
QUOTE(BeatNavy @ Sep 23 2014, 12:55 PM)
As attractive as the baby suppository solution sounds, you could also go to 914Rubber and replace your rear seal with the one Mikey sells that doesn't squeak. I use that one and have no roof squeaks. Or I don't think I do. It's been a couple of weeks since I drove with the top on...maybe I'm just forgetting.
100% guaranteed not to squeak or leak:
You should make your signature a little bigger so we can all see your political comment. 
QUOTE(Elliot Cannon @ Sep 23 2014, 11:16 PM)
You should make your signature a little bigger so we can all see your political comment.
just added that yesterday- thought i set it for a"6" was not intended to be that big, but i guess it does the job, 
- kind of fits, doesnt it edit- its been adjusted a bit smaller, so now you dont have to scoll down to read the whole quote
The tops squeek for two reasons:
1. The metal to metal interface between the retractable 'hooks' and the 'pegs' mounted to the top need isolation or lubrication. I use a small piece of heat shrink over the 'pegs', lube is too messy. Some use small thin pieces of plastic/rubber/vinyl tubing, but it has to be thin wall material for the hooks to engage the pegs.
2. The rear top seal is rubber to metal, where as the original has a felt liner to isolate the surfaces. The cheap repro rear seals don't have the felt and they squeek, be sure your seal has a felt isolator in good condition.
1. The metal to metal interface between the retractable 'hooks' and the 'pegs' mounted to the top need isolation or lubrication. I use a small piece of heat shrink over the 'pegs', lube is too messy. Some use small thin pieces of plastic/rubber/vinyl tubing, but it has to be thin wall material for the hooks to engage the pegs.
2. The rear top seal is rubber to metal, where as the original has a felt liner to isolate the surfaces. The cheap repro rear seals don't have the felt and they squeek, be sure your seal has a felt isolator in good condition.
QUOTE(Philip W. @ Sep 23 2014, 06:52 AM)
ive heard glycerine works but where do you source it?
Take a closer look at the contact points on the top of the Targa bar and lube them first...pay attention to the "bumps" that locate the latches....they were the culprit on mine....I put some teflon tape on them.
A couple of pieces of adhesive backed felt in the recesses cures the squeeky top standoffs.
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.