why can't a 911 oil tank be mounted on the drivers or passenger side of a 914.Is it thicker due to the wide flares?

The only reason I am going to say this is because this conversation was up like a week ago. Do a search. I know the search feature sucks on old posts, but that one is recent, so you shouldn't have to search through 10 years of crap to find it. (Yes, the forum has only been around what, 2 years or something?)

tim or any of the shops.

does anyone have a picture of a 911 oil tank out of the car.

that last thread, got me to thinking that I'd like to see one.

just put mine back in... sorry

Do you have a 911 tank in your 914 Eric? I'd like to see that.

I've sold parts for 15-20 conversions, and don't know of anyone that's successfully used a 911 oil tank. I know of a few street cars that tried to use "generic" racer oil tanks, and ultimately changed to a stock or reproduction 914-6 tank. I know there's plenty of race cars with other than stock tanks, but they are a different breed.

I know that once upon a time there was a picture on the internet of a 914 that had a hole cut in the rear trunk so that the 911 oil tank was partially in the trunk and partially hanging below...

not a pretty or ideal location me thinks...

with Perry,

I've only seen them in all-out racers. Dry sump tanks are simple by the very nature of the design... but finding a place for one (besides the stock location), in the small 914 is tough. I've seen several setups that place a round tank in the rear trunk next to the trans (and is a very succesful race car). You could do this with teh 911 tank, but why? For the same or less price of a 911 tank you could get an aluminum tank out of a dirt-track racing supplier that would look way better than an odd shapped 911 tank randomly placed in the car.

And yes, the 911 tank is too wide to place it in the fenderwell without fender modification.

QUOTE (BigD9146gt @ Feb 1 2005, 12:52 PM)

with Perry, I've only seen them in all-out racers. Dry sump tanks are simple by the very nature of the design... but finding a place for one (besides the stock location), in the small 914 is tough. I've seen several setups that place a round tank in the rear trunk next to the trans (and is a very succesful race car). You could do this with teh 911 tank, but why? For the same or less price of a 911 tank you could get an aluminum tank out of a dirt-track racing supplier that would look way better than an odd shapped 911 tank randomly placed in the car. And yes, the 911 tank is too wide to place it in the fenderwell without fender modification.

Also, who would want to move the weight rear on a -6...
weight needs to move forward.

I'm surprised that a successful racer would do this.

Not every case of weight being moved back hinders the succesfulness of a car. Having more weight in the rear, like a 911, presents different challenges, sure, but with that comes improved brake weight distrabution, and better rear end acceleration hook-up.

On a side note, the 911 is, without any argument, the hardest sports car to drive at the limit. BUT, when driven correctly, is once of the fastest cars into, and out of corners.

With that being said. mid engine rules all.

QUOTE (BigD9146gt @ Feb 1 2005, 01:22 PM)

Not every case of weight being moved back hinders the succesfulness of a car. Having more weight in the rear, like a 911, presents different challenges, sure, but with that comes improved brake weight distrabution, and better rear end acceleration hook-up. On a side note, the 911 is, without any argument, the hardest sports car to drive at the limit. BUT, when driven correctly, is once of the fastest cars into, and out of corners. With that being said. mid engine rules all.

I can agree with that.
I've driven 911's on the track too

but while building a 914 as a race car, I would want to move any weight forward that I could and I would aspire towards a 50/50 weight distribution...

I don't know any 914 racers that intentionally try to improve their handling by moving weight rearward.

I put my 911 tank back in my 911

Me has a GPR tank...

QUOTE

On a side note, the 911 is, without any argument, the hardest sports car to drive at the limit. BUT, when driven correctly, is once of the fastest cars into, and out of corners.

Yup, just read Vic Elford's book to see what could be done. He also states right up front that the ideal weight distribution is a car similar to a 924, 944, 968. 50:50 with the weight out at the ends, not in the middle like our little wondercars.

Eric, do you have the aluminum GPR tank????

I've seen a 911 oil tank in a 914, in near the stock location.

Total hack-job. A number of holes were made in the 914 panel for the 911 hose mountings and oil filter console and mounting studs and such. I think one stud was too short and you couldn't get a nut onto it. The thing leaked like a sieve, out of all the joints.

The only reason it fit at all was because someone had put 'glass GT flares on the lil sucker.

Lapuwali has also seen the car. (He actually owned it for a little while!) He may remember the details better than I.

--DD

QUOTE

Eric, do you have the aluminum GPR tank????

Ahhhh Huuuuuuu

How do you like it? I heard those things are a peice of shit!

Don , didnt you have something to do with those tanks ?

Just curious ,help me out here , Or did you have some other tank thing going 72 911 maybe ?

DAMN IT sixnotfour!!!

You just had to go and screw up my plan! Just kidding.

All joking aside, yes, i had some small part with those tanks... well, small is not accurate either. I make them... Go figure, i've been making one today.

Your also right about the 72 911 tank, i've got one in the works too. I cannot complete it because i need a 72 chassis for the strap and hole positioning.

It's a piece of $hit! Leaks oil all over the garage floor.

Actually, it's never been used. It's sitting on my top shelf collecting dust (looking damn pretty doing it). I found a 911 filler neck and had it replated and I found an early 911 filter consoule to mount on it.

Do me a big favor "pretty-please with sugar on top" tell me about it. What size are the fittings? Any internal baffling? I bought it second hand off another teener who never got around to installing it. It came with no info. I want to hook it up, find fittings, lines etc. but rather than trial and error I thought I could go right to the source. Also, talk to me about fuel lines... PM me if you'd like.

Thanks in advance

Hey I gotta a 72, oil tank is out (rusted) Hurry up with them

I thought that was your opener ...........

Well Eric,

I'm glad you think it looks pretty.

Well, I'm happy to inform you that your the proud owner of a first generation DWD tank. I made the first batch 100% myself. (sheer, bent, machined, threaded, sawed). I even ran the CNC for the oil filter stand plates.

The next batch is almost here, everything is CNC cut and bent, leaving just the welding and a few odd parts to manually make.

The fittings on the tank (aluminum welded rounds) are an M22x1,5 thread, which receives the two double male threaded peices. The smaller threaded fitting on the side is obviously for oil in, and the bigger threaded peice is oil out. The bottom fitting is loctited in, and does not need to be removed. The side fitting is for you to install, making my tank wider than stock with it off for installation. This tank internally is identical to the stock tank. The screen is placed in the correct spot to keep foaming down as well as being the correct size mesh( the Vellios tank mesh had 20x larger holes). Plus the tank is a pound lighter than the stock tank, and holds more oil.

If you have any other questions, feel free to call me on my cell 408.691.3689.

Here is the instructions that i include with the tanks:

DWD-GPR 914-6 Aluminum Oil Tank *PLEASE READ FIRST*

The instillation of the oil tank is almost identical to the instillation of a factory 914-6 oil tank. The differences made to the tank are to give it more volume over stock.

· Cover the oil filler neck tube and oil breather tube prior to putting tank in wheel well. This will keep any dirt stuck on the sides from falling into the tank via the holes during instillation. Tape will work, just make sure its secure and won’t rip until the tank is in place.

· The two studs that hold the stock tank to the firewall are now bolts that thread into the tank. What I have found to work the best is to place the two clear plastic washers on either side of the firewall with the new bolts holding them in place. Then, when the tank is positioned, push bolts to the tank and start threading. It may take a few minutes to find the bolt hole while shifting the tank around slightly.

· The oil mount on the bottom of the tank is assembled during production, there is no need to take it off. The side oil hose mount which receives oil from the engine needs to be removed to make the instillation of the tank easier. Once the tank is mounted and both bolts holding it securely, thread in the double male fitting in. You can use a thread sealant, or blue loctite. USING RED LOCTITE WILL VOID WARRANTEE!

· ALWAYS use a wrench to secure oil fitting on the tank while tightening oil lines. This will keep the fitting to oil tank threads from stripping.

· Tools you will need:
1. 13mm wrench
2. Screw driver, Phillips and slotted
3. 27mm wrench
4. 32mm wrench
5. 36mm wrench
6. 5mm hex key

· As for the holes to be drilled in the firewall, we suggest drilling them as big as possible to the diameter of the pre-stamped section using bi-metal hole-saws. We Use the fallowing hole saws for our installations; Oil filler neck: 2 7/8”(73mm), Oil breather tube: 2” (50mm), Oil filter stand: 4” (100mm), Oil IN (on firewall): 2” (50mm), Oil IN (under engine compartment shelf, no hole pre-stamped on ’73>): 1 ¾”(45mm).


Thank you for your order. For technical assistance please email us at info@gprparts.com or call us M-F 8am to 5pm PST 800.321.5432.

And a few pics for the rest of you...

Awe shucks... THANKS! For that you get a picture. It looks like I have the fittings in there

God damn that looks like shit!.. ok i'll stop now.

I know i said it before, but take that side fitting off before you install. Once its in the right position, then thread it in with some blue loctite. Also make sure you use two wrenchs when tightening the oil lines to the fittings!

One more ?

How much oil total?

Eric, good question... Honestly i forget

Its more than stock, but how much? Really, with any 911 engine, i'd say start with 6-7 and run it. Let it warm up and then check it.

I just rebuilt a 3.0SC motor not too long ago, and i filled the oil up to the bottom of the dipstick, and then let it fully warm up. Just in the oil expansion between cold/hot, it raised 1.5 inches up the 911 dipstick! But, since the SC's have the front oil cooler and lines, it normally takes about 11 quarts.

Mine take 10 quarts without a cooler... I'll figure it out.

I lied... one more question:

Is there anything I need to do to the 911 oil filler neck? It's from a 71 car. It doesn't sit in there just right but I haven't played with it much. It looks like the stick tube might need to be shortened or bent inward. Any thoughts?

Thanks again for the instructions. I've got them printed and stashed away with the tank.

Ya, those filler necks with the dipstick tube can be a bitch. Some get bent by owners over the years, and i've even seen a few were the spot weld on the uppper bracket come apart.

Look in the tank with a flashlight. You;ll see the cut out in the screen for the dipstick tube to go into. Its a tight fit because i didn't want to make the hole in the screen too big. It will go though, i have one filler neck that i use when i assemble every tank...

QUOTE (BigD9146gt @ Feb 1 2005, 02:33 PM)

Your also right about the 72 911 tank, i've got one in the works too. I cannot complete it because i need a 72 chassis for the strap and hole positioning.

Don, come down the the shop (West Coast Garage in Santa Maria) We have a 72 911 (customer car) that's been there for a loooong time. I'm sure you'd be welcome to measure whatever you needed.

Markb, that would be SWEET!!! I'll give you guys a call this week!