I'm desperate to ditch the 1.7

But not looking to shoehorn anything huge in there

I'd prefere to have a simple install with plenty of room to spare

I figured that the smallest engine possible would be an advantage

So are there any tiny boxer Subaru motors
Or

Something that fits better then others



And please weigh in

Advantage and disadvantage

Subaru conversion vs. Big type 4

You can get some pretty impressive horsepower from a 1000cc or 1200cc motorbike engine. They use them in race cars so shouldn't be a problem if you can stand the noise!.

Cam, heads, bore and stroke. Through enought money at an engin, and you would be surprised how much power you can pull out of these motors. You would be shocked on how fast they can make some of those drag bugs, and those are an even smaller displacement. The 914 is light enough, it does not take a lot to get a good power to weight ratio.

You can do a v8 made out of 2 hayabusa motors like the radical.

If a 100 hp would make you happy, why worry about a big Type IV? The stock 2.0 already had 95 hp, building a 100 hp 2.0 liter would probably the fastest and easiest route.

Subaru and Type 4 are pretty much the same size. For 100 hp the price is roughly the same to do it correctly. You'll get much more than 100hp from the Subaru but once you source a good engine, conversion parts, etc... you could get a pretty strong 100hp type 4.

Smaller...you could look at a rotary? Been done many times. Mike Bellis has done it and Rotary '14's is nice.

Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment
The blower solves the torque curve. http://www.magnacharger.com/c-120-supercharger-kits.aspx
Honda Valkrie bike engineClick to view attachment
You can see the trans input shaft and the boss above that carries the crankshaft end.
https://www.google.ca/search?q=honda+valkyr...F%3B3648%3B2736

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/honda-valkyrie-parts
http://stores.ebay.com/suncoastcyclesports...=p2047675.l2563
http://stores.ebay.com/Los-Angeles-Motorcy...n=1&_ipg=48
https://www.facebook.com/pinwallcycle

Honda GoldWing bike engine
https://www.google.ca/search?q=honda+valkyr...ne&imgdii=_
http://www.ebay.com/bhp/goldwing-1500-engine
http://volksrods.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34625

At these prices and condition,hard to dismiss.
Nothing simple to adapt,cutting and hacking needed.
Gut the gearbox,an adapter must be made,and so on.
Click to view attachment
(Illustration is an approximation,bore is 71mm,od of ring gear =?)
Something like this with a heavier flywheel,modded remote oil filter and much more.
Adding a blower makes for a decent output.Flat 6 SOHC 1.5L liquid cooled efi.
Just add labour and sweat equity.Be the first.

Simple install? Build up your 1.7 to get the power you want. Changing to anything other than a 914 motor will be much more complicated.

--DD

Mazda rotary if you want small and something that was already done before by Simpson Hybrids back in the day.

You can get 100HP out of your 1.7L without having to go nuts on parts used.

PM McMark and ask him about his bolt-on turbo kit for the 1.7L ...

Smaller motor usually means less torque and higher rpm band for power and while car might be fairly quick in 1st gear, once you shift into second it might be a dog!


McMark added a small turbo to his 1.7 and from what I've read it made a huge improvement without going too crazy.

if your heart is set on getting rid of the 1.7 motor I would suggest either a 2056 motor built and installed by McMark (simplest) or a subaru conversion to a small non turbo motor...

rich

Maybe we should ask what you mean by "small"... Small exterior packaging? Small swept volume? Light weight? Fuel efficient? What is it you are going for here?

--DD

Really I'm going for reliability and the 1.7 has given me that so I shouldn't complaine

But I am disappointed with the fuel dilivery of these engines . Even know d,jet is still going strong

I think just a rebuild on the 1.7 and a complete injection overhaul would make me happy

But is that cost effective , vs dropping in a Subaru 2.2 or 2.5

Because I really like the water cooling cause I live in so cal

And hesitate to drive the 1.7 in temps over 90 deg f.

And the non d jet ,but I have a feeling the former will be much cheaper then the ladder
With only modest improvements that I don't really need .

I would feel terrible if I put the 1.7 thru daily rush hrour traffic to and fro work

But a Subaru or other engine I really wouldn't care .......

And yeh as mentioned in previous post

I would think the Honda goldwing flat six

Would be superior to others as far smoothness ,

Mpg , quietness and longevity ...

Like formula2

Not formula 1

Any number of modern 4 cylinder water cooled motors will get you way over 100 hp and be compact and light. Problem is that then you need to plumb in water to cool it, you lose your heater, unless you get creative there and you lose your trunk up front and/or have holes cut in your wheel wells.
Stick with a decent type4, If you want better fuel delivery, get an EFI system. There are a couple of vendors mentioned on the list with ready to go systems for less than you would spend on specialty parts to fit a Subaru or anything else. You will, however still be stuck with your transmission...

I personally like the transmission and don't intend to upgrade reguarless of powerplant

I think that 901. Is really a unsung hero ,granted mine is in pretty fine fiddle

I know there are a lot of em out there that are Grind ey

But I always remember to

Never abuse 1 st gear and I'm good

Stupid thread

Hey yeh ... This guy has it

Preferably all of the above attributes ....

Really I' only freeway cruize in 5 th so great mileage is really a big plus

Which as I understand as the 911 trend has shown , best mileage and pollution control

Can never be achieved by , air cooling


Is. This really true ?????

Buy this...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914...ne-fi-bolt.html

Whoops, should have know to check here first, better move fast...
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=247829

Aggreed this is stupid
That the ideal replacement for the type 4 has not been found

Instead there are a million different variations of what everyone thinks is
The hot setup ( kind of cool ) in its own way

Is this what you desire? 998cc? 3 massive cylinders and modern injection?

That would be a great upgrade- Gene builds some good engines and does great work on the rest of the car too. He built that that car also- too bad there aren't any pictures posted, it's really nice.

Actually yeh , I never though 3 cylinder but if that is for real ,when driven with restraint I'm thinking like 40 mpg

I can t really see a flaw

And yeh 3 is smaller then 4

Yeh it looks good and if I'm understand ing correctly ,

Once I buy something like that I need virtually nothing else

For the install . ?

Your views on the 1.7 are totally wrong. My first 914, which I purchased new, was a 73 1.7. It would easily cruise at 95 all day. I've had a 914 as a daily driver for 42 years.
That 1.7 carried me 349,000 before it started smoking, so I rebuilt it to a 1911 and put
another 150,000 miles on it before it succumbed to the rust monster. The 1.7 is the strongest, most reliable, best mileage of all the type IV's

Btw, I agree with the others who said "stupid thread".

Ok I stand corrected , if the 1.7

Can hack it then awesome . I just always had the impression that these were delicate engines

Never to be pushed or abused , but 300k+. Miles sounds good too me .

And honestly , non of the chicks I've picked up in this car have asked about the engine so

Thank you to the world for.setting me straight ....








I like submariners ,cause they don't have time for bull shit an neither do I.
Fdr.


"Until one has given all, one has given nothing." Old Charles



"

^That worries me....

Are you now only interested in the best gas mileage, hence the "small" motor?

Didn't you ask about V8's last week?

Yes that motor combo is real, I want to say it was put into a 911 or 912?

If really serious and crazy at the same time, Ford now has a 1.0 turbo 3 cylinder....125hp and up to 148ftlbs of torque.

Supposedly very useable and flat torque curve so no need to wind it up or worry about the low end.

The 1.7 is probably the most robust of all of the 914 engines. We know of examples that go well over 200K miles without being touched. (Though many of those start using copious amounts of oil near the end.)

The heads are less prone to cracking than the 2.0 ones, the crank is stiffer because it has thicker rod journals than the 2.0 (or other stroker) cranks, and they tend to be less stressed over all.

If you don't like D-jet, you can put together a Megasquirt or Microsquirt system for not much money--but you'll have to spend time and effort (and some $) setting it up and tweaking it. Or you can slap a set of dual carbs on and tinker with them. Either way is going to be much simpler than working out how to fit a modern fuel injected water-cooled engine.

That said, if you want Scooby power, go Scooby power!

--DD

Here ya go..Click to view attachment

I don't mind d.jet but

There are extremely few wrenchs that will tune or work on it .

And I'm not even technically proficient enough to change a head lamp

So there in lies the problem ...

So failure of even the most smallest component leaves me up s#it creek .

I wouldn't mind refreshing my entire d- jet with new or newer parts , but until I find

The person to diagnosis , dismantle , repair and retune .

I'm stuck with ,if it ain't broke don't fix it .....














" stick with me honey and you'll be farting through silk." Don blochkay

I would think with all the Megasquirt installs done on these cars getting a fairly well done mapping should be fairly simple.

By now it should be almost plug and play unless ones setup is really odd.

Speaking of which, do we have a listing of known good MSQ files with engine combos posted someplace around here?

Click to view attachment
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1992-92-Harley-Spr...d65&vxp=mtr
At this price you can buy 2 for a 45 deg -4 2.7L,bolt it together and make some big noise,easy in first tho,the Hogs will snap a 914 TX.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-rtuxEwC6Fg
Then later when you want to get serious you can slip in a Red Shift Cam and really wake them up.
Make some stupid power,no bs.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radial_engine
Real old tech,today the difference is metallurgy and chemistry.

Click to view attachment

20K brand new.

http://thekneeslider.com/v-quad-4-cylinder-engine/
http://thekneeslider.com/v-quad-bagger-fro...#comment-160394
http://www.markhound.com/trademark/search/O1YJymV9d

Yeah,well,looks like he went bust,can't find his site,like he disappeared.
Gregory J. Nelson 916-663-6351
http://www.google.com/patents/US7134407

Meets all your criteria. It's small, nimble, sports car. over 100 h.p., good gas mileage, no popup headlights, plenty of forums, girls love them. Enjoy

Love em but at 6ft 3 , might be a tighter fit then the narpnarp

The good news is a 1.7 is almost impossible to kill. I drove mine for years in traffic even when it was 95F in New Jersey. Your temperature will be a much greater concern if you are really stuck in traffic.

The bad news is I'm sorry to tell you this, but if you are really up the creek with the smallest mechanical failure I don't think a 40 year old car is for you.

I drive my 914 everyday. I built it. A couple times . I don't spend every saturday in the garage, but I stay on top of stuff. Things still occasionally break because unless you go and replace everything, there are still lots of old parts. Just this summer low speed wipers stopped working, drivers door lock broke, and right side headlight stopped going down. only the wipers left to fix at this point.

If you really like 914's, you can't or don't want to work on it, and you don't have huge coin to blow you need as stock a car as possible. This way any mechanic with a factory manual can fix it. Don't even consider an engine swap or megasquirt. If 30+mpg on the highway (which is what my stock 1.7 would regularly deliver) isn't good enough for you don't even consider carbs.

If you want a little more power find someone to build you a stock 2.0. If the engine is stock and in good shape overheating will not be a concern.

Just my $.02

Maybe. You need to learn how to work on it or buy a more modern car?

Hey they told me to get in the car and drive and I can drive ....

" Cole Trickle " days of thunder

A funny quote that apparently doesn't apply to you.
Buy a set of wrenches and get ready to learn...

I will continue looking into the Valkrie 6 and how easy it would be to fabricate a custom adapter casting.
I see no difficulties other than the lightweight crank mass.With the number of engines becoming available,they may present a viable option.
The 2 valve liquid cooled arrangement allows a tt setup in a vehicle and would supply a nice performance curve.
Economical when required and 140+ hp when gittin it on.Seems Honda has built a decent F6,worthwhile considering.

I don't know I always thought this car was too nice to " learn on "

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tGZu20w5xwY
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_Valkyrie

Yeah,that'll work.
Don't lose that number.

If that's true then with all due respect you're not really qualified own a 914, or in fact any old car. Older cars have more character than newer cars which means sh*t happens, a fact of life, but we put up with it (generally) because we can. If you can't then maybe you should look at newer cars.

Seriously DB? A guy can't change a headlight disqualifies him from owning a 914? I have a couple of 914 owners that I do all their maintenance including headlights. They are no different than any other 914 owner. They love the cars and take care of them.

I'm not trying to defend my lack of mechanical abilities

But I do change the oil in my Mazda

And I'm the best volleyball player between the 605 and the 405 freeway

That's all I got right now ...

Realistically, any older car is going to have trouble at some point. You can fix it yourself, or you can have someone else fix it. No shame either way.

Swapping to a different power plant is going to take a lot of work. If you're not doing that work yourself, that means a lot of money. If you go to a good shop, make that "a whole big lot of money". Going with anything other than a very well-understood and well-documented setup that has been done many dozens of times means that you'll find "interesting" issues to solve. Which means more time and work, which means more money.

It might be cool to have the only Geo Metro-powered 914 in existence, and to get 45+ MPG and real heat and AC. But would you pay $100K for it?

The simplest thing to do is to keep the 1.7 and drive it.

If you're worried about problems from engine heat, get some reliable instruments installed. (I mean stuff like the Aircraft Spruce head temp gauges. Not cheap stuff.) Install the under-car flaps to help pull cooling air through the motor, make sure the stock cooling system is all there and in good shape, and then drive it.

If it still gets too hot, then consider what you can do to cool it down. Maybe changing the tune (e.g., the spark timing, the mixture), maybe ducting more air into the engine bay, maybe adding an external cooler, or maybe something else. But don't worry about those unless and until you find that there is an actual problem.

--DD

No, not disqualifies. As long as they're aware of the additional costs and time and that's acceptable then fine, not a problem. The problem is when non-mechanical people think they can get a rebuilt engine or whatever and the car will be no different than owning a new Civic... just cuter. You've met people like that, heck, most of us have bought "ran when parked" cars from them, and those people are almost always guaranteed some serious disappointment. So if they're aware, fine, but if not then someone should at least give them a heads-up. At least to get AAA with towing.

What does that mean?
I learned to wrench on an immaculate TR6 with a blue BC/CC paint job so deep it looked like you could dive right in on a sunny day. That car was really nice. Was it too nice? Well, my wrenches still fit all the nuts and bolts, and my screwdrivers still fit all the screws. Within a few months of buying it, I'd rebuilt the cooling system, rebuilt the ZS carbs, changed U-joints, etc.
Just get in and start doing it. Once you do you'll realize it's not black magic that you have to pay someone $100/hr for.

I kind of agree with DB a little here on this one. Things are going to break on old cars. Might as well learn to fix it yourself. That's why there's forums like this. If you don't know how to fix it, post a new topic and ask your question. Someone will come along and help you out with an answer. Or, use the search function (but who does that?!)