Looking to do a 914/6 conversion and have been offered a 68 911 front suspension package.
Is it suitable / will it fit without much messing about?
The guy has offered me "the entire, pull off front suspension and steering rack
minus the callipers and rotors" - what exactly should this include?
Thanks
Brian
Full Version: 914-6 suspension
Well if you need the rear calipers ask Eric at PMB. I'm not an expert on this but the suspension should work, you will have a significant outlay for the calipers.
yep, the calipers will be kind of spendy. double check on the caliper bolt spacing on the strut housings. figure out what kind of rotors you want to run. go to the PMB website and look around. i was doing some research the other days and it looks like the rotor prices there are hard to beat.
For the front:
From what I can see on the internetz, 1968 911s had the last of the very early ball joints (2 bolt). Blech.
1969 (?) and later 911s and 914s use a much more common ball joint with a big castle nut. (There are two versions of those -- early pinch-bolt vs later wedge-pin )
For the rear:
Unless you want to be absolutely correct, you don't need 914-6 rear calipers. You can get 70-73(?) rear stub axles and hubs, and have your 4-lug rotor re-drilled for 5 hole.
From what I can see on the internetz, 1968 911s had the last of the very early ball joints (2 bolt). Blech.
1969 (?) and later 911s and 914s use a much more common ball joint with a big castle nut. (There are two versions of those -- early pinch-bolt vs later wedge-pin )
For the rear:
Unless you want to be absolutely correct, you don't need 914-6 rear calipers. You can get 70-73(?) rear stub axles and hubs, and have your 4-lug rotor re-drilled for 5 hole.
Definitely call Eric at PMB Performance. Depending upon your goal you may want to hunt for the later 911 front struts to get the 3.5" bolt spacing for the later calipers. Regardless, Eric can hook you up.
You dont want that early suspension. Get something from 1971 or later with taper pin ball joints and vented rotors. That early suspension only had value to the owner of a SWB 911. Least expensive way to do the rear is have the hubs and rotors redrilled to five lug.
QUOTE(Mark Garriott @ Jan 10 2015, 09:49 AM) 
For the front:
From what I can see on the internetz, 1968 911s had the last of the very early ball joints (2 bolt). Blech.
1969 (?) and later 911s and 914s use a much more common ball joint with a big castle nut. (There are two versions of those -- early pinch-bolt vs later wedge-pin )
For the rear:
Unless you want to be absolutely correct, you don't need 914-6 rear calipers. You can get 70-73(?) rear stub axles and hubs, and have your 4-lug rotor re-drilled for 5 hole.
If you go with 911 hubs and stub axles you also have to use 911 CV joints, custom axles and 911 course spline trans output flanges. Eric has a great write up on this forum of all the 5 lug conversion options.
The only thing a 68 suspension is good for is a 68 car.
David
David
QUOTE(bdstone914 @ Jan 10 2015, 08:38 AM)
QUOTE(Mark Garriott @ Jan 10 2015, 09:49 AM)
For the rear:
Unless you want to be absolutely correct, you don't need 914-6 rear calipers. You can get 70-73(?) rear stub axles and hubs, and have your 4-lug rotor re-drilled for 5 hole.
If you go with 911 hubs and stub axles you also have to use 911 CV joints, custom axles and 911 course spline trans output flanges. Eric has a great write up on this forum of all the 5 lug conversion options.
After I wrote that I remembered what a mess my rear 5 lug conversion was. I did get early 914 drive flanges with bosses for 5-lug from High Performance House, which PMB redrilled. But rules wouldn't let me use re-drilled hubs. So I had to go the 911 route
Is this the thread?
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=lug+conversion
SWB suspension has few pieces that can be used on a 914. Forget it.
The Cap'n
The Cap'n
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