Recently purchased my survivor '73 2.0. Have discussed and shared pics in other threads. A few of you have commented on the rustproofing. The car a superb example of a survivor but I'm wondering about the rustproofing. Am I crazy to think about taking it off? I'll never drive the car in inclement weather. Are there disadvantages if I show it in an original/survivor class? I happen to have a break from work in the next month or two and so may have the time to tackle it. I've heard of dry ice blasting. Does it really work? Also have heard that some have done it with a heat gun.

Really looking for all of you to either justify why I should do and an push me over that cliff or pull me back to my senses. Thanks for the input.

A pix would be nice,we love looking at 914s,crumbling rustpiles as well.What is your colour?.
A rust free 914?A look inside the longs will horrify you.
The removal of the Wurth bottom coating is a way to make lighter tho it's there for sound suppression and stone protection.
A street car should retain it.

Thanks Veekry9. Many photos in this thread '73 914 2.0

You have acrually seen that thread and commented. It truly is as rust free as they get. My question is related to dealer installed rustproofing/undercoating. Thinking about tackling the removal of that since it was not factory applied and also hard to clean.

I concur. I recently had a conversation with someone that works on these cars regularly about the fact that every 914 may very well have at least some rust (if only minor) inside the longs. If someone would come up with a process to go in and address the rust inside the longs, properly (by the owner), I suspect that could be sold to every single 914 owner that knows about it. The worst thing to imagine is that your pride and joy is rusting from the inside out, and it isn't even visible.

If it wasn't put on by the factory it may very well not be done in a way that can stand the test of time. I'd remove it.

Check Steve g's thread. He did it on his Sahara beige car with paint thinner and wood scrapers.

Thanks guys, and I'm correct, am I not that these cars did not come from the factory with rustproofing/undercoating.

Is it possible to use Eastwood's Internal Frame Coating (uses a 360 degree spray nozzle and extension hose) to coat the inside of the longs? I wouldn't want to drill and plug holes (1/2") but that is a possibility if it extends the life of the chassis.

http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coa...-nozzle-qt.html

I have used it in different applications with good results.

If it's factory, leave it.
If it's dealer applied, remove it.

There is an authenticity forum here if you start at the top level.
There may be a thread about undercoating already in that forum.

Using kerosene in a spray bottle, a heat gun and PLASTIC scrapers will get most of it off.

Try not to gouge the paint.

As always, it seems there are two camps and opinions on factory or not factory undercoating.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...hl=Undercoating

someone did a thread on removal, with a hear gun.
I tried the heat gun, like butter, but it stinks..

I removed all of mine using Eastwood's "undergone" spray. It takes awhile but it dissolved mine. You still have to scrape and wipe it off.

I have done more than one with heat gun and solvent + a plastic scraper...A real pain requiring patience but I love the look of body colored wheel wells.

So how many hours does one need to invest to do this right with a heat gun?? Hate the idea of solvents.

No one has commented on Dry ice blasting. Has no one tried that?

Oh,that cherry tomato,Bahia red?

A successful method that was labour intensive is the "Gunk Brand" brake cleaner.
Start with 10 cans for the pan.

1)Insert nozzle
2)spray small area 6"X6"
3)wipe rapidly dissolved coating with disposable paper towels.
GOTO 2

Wear skin protection.
Wear a face mask.
Use only in a well ventilated area.
Be certain no flame or spark is in the work area.

In removing the tar finish in the rear trunk 18hrs was spent.
An entire bellypan?Many days,no quick solution,gotta dog it out.

When I purchased my teener new in 1973, the salesman really tired had for me to get the "rustproofing package." Fortunately, I stood my ground and said no. I love the look of the wheel wells being the same color as the car!

Here's the passenger side with the heater conduit removed...



And it goes beyond just inside the longs. I found it rust in the cavity formed behind the front wheel houses, under the dash. I also found rust inside the cross member in the rear trunk, although that was probably induced by mice urine. They were gaining access though the two quarter size holes.

You know that's so obvious now that you mention it. Both cars I have and have worked on were basically large "habittrails" (or whatever those cages for hamsters are called) for the local rodents while they sat idle for years. I've seen the rodent leftovers, but didn't even think about the damage those little monsters can do just pissing everywhere.

Most of it will come off with a heat gun and scraper but you're going to have to use solvent to finish up to get it looking really nice. I use thinners for the worst of what won't scrape off…degreaser which is less potent will work to a lesser extent.

I agree you'll need to use a plastic scraper to preserve the paintwork below.

I reckon you could do all four wells in a day…but it'll make a right mess!

YOU MUST WEAR A VAPOR MASK IF YOU USE SOLVENTS…I'm in the UK but one like this I found on Home Depot's website would work for small DIY jobs.

Vapor Mask

Good luck!

When i got my 76 it had rustproofing in the wheel wells kinda falling off, so some fairly easy work with a plastic putty knife exposed rather nice red paint. the car had been converted to wide body kit apparently some years ago. so the longs and jack posts were in very good condition. Everything else was red also except the underbody (belly pan) was in a darker brownish color and in good condition.
I like the clean look and the car will never see salt while i have it.
Click to view attachment