Thanks honest is good if it only takes $3000 im in !!! Just trying and learning see what and where I need be before I'm very upside down...a plus is that engine ran good today now next step....

Doug is being kind. It's a decent parts car but you'll spend $10K (probably more) + a couple years to get it back on the road and running well.

Engine
trans
replacement metal
paint
interior
brakes
shocks
tires
seals, gaskets, bushings, hoses, lines
ect.

I agree that Doug is being kind, and he knows. I disagree that this is a parts car. I think that term is vanishing. But I am betting that you wanted a cool sports car, to drive. what you now have is a possible big commitment to bringing one to life. Not at all the same experience. This is generally beyond the means of many experienced car guys. If it isn't expensive it is difficult, dirty, boring, and dangerous. And, if you dont take it far enough, you get nothing.
Would I take it on? Yeah, but I like to grind and weld, and it will take a lot of grinding and welding. Then we can think about the motor.
Again I am not geographically too far, so you have help.

Here are pics of my 914 when I bought it nearly 5 years ago... I have the feeling many on this forum would have said "Part it" after seeing these pictures.

PASSENGER LONG
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DRIVER LONG
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REAR TRUNK
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HELL HOLE
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TONS of bondo on front fender and other places
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At Okteenerfest 2014
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My point... unless it is rusted so bad that it is ready to collapse, make your 914 safe first - fuel system, brakes, etc and then fix it up a little at a time.

Even with fairly recent paint/bodywork (shoddy but that's another story) my 914 is a 20-footer at best But as my daily driver I have focused on engine (new FI lines, fuel pump, tank, lines, etc), suspension (totally redone with stiffer torsion bars, turbo tie rods, bushings, 140# springs, etc), brakes (new disks, pads), and interior (work in progress). All done a little at a time over the past few years.

I know my 914 needs a LOT of bodywork. And at some point that will get done. Until then, I enjoy driving every day!

thank you so much would like the help and guidance you can give ,you are little over 2 hours away from me I'm at six flags great America exit...well with this said she will be saved no parts car here lol!!!

That pump I was talking about sold $315 Click to view attachment

Way too much for a rebuilt pump.
The problem with driving around with rusted longs is there is a good chance the seatbelt mounting point is compromised and not hold secure during an accident and also the car might fold up on you.

Ok turned key and started right up today so I changed oil and filter today and tested first gear and reverse both did great and stoped but now fuel is leaking from hose on fuel injectors and at the base of intake so ordered all the parts to take out and redo 45 fuel line upper and lower seal and spring washer ..regulator is not leaking so will try to keep old ones in but drove 100 ft front and backwards so think it's on a good path is it easy to do injector redo parts?

If the injectors are leaking from the fuel lines, they're pretty easy. If the lines to the injectors still have the old crimp-on clamps, you'll have to cut them off. Replace with fuel injector hose clamps--the ones shapes like an omega or horseshoe, not the ones with a worm gear that cut into the hose.

If an injectors is leaking around the electrical connector, or down right where it plugs into the intake, you should replace the whole injector.

Injectors are held into the intake pipes by one M6 (10mm wrench) nut. Remove that nut, pull the metal retainer off the stud on the intake, grab the injector and pull straight out. There is one large O-ring on the injector body that the retainer seats on. There is one small O-ring near the end of the injector, where it slides into the intake. Replace both of those O-rings; leaks in the latter especially make for some ugly driveability problems.

--DD

What likely happened was they were on the "edge" of going bad, and when you put pressure through them, it pushed them over said edge.

Replace the lines...replace the crimps as Dave noted...you should be good to go.

Post some more pics of the rust you're dealing with. We can help you make a decision on how far you want to take it. Do you have anyone with a lift that can put her in the air for you?

I've seen worse. Heck, I own one in worse shape than that. That's definitely repairable. But there's going to be more rust for sure. If you want to learn to weld - get that chassis up on a lift, drop the engine and transmission, drop the suspension, strip the interior (you might be able to leave the dash in) and start stripping the undercoating and paint. That's when you'll find all the rust. You need a dry garage with space you can occupy for about 12 months. The small rust areas can be repaired with sheet metal patches but get the RD parts for large areas like floor pans, trunk pans, inner and outer longs. For some inspiration check out my thread...

Rusty Bucket Into Solo Toy

Much of what I did was not a true restoration but my goal was to have a fun autocross car on a budget. You'll figure out where you're headed when you get knee-deep in rusty metal

Need help finding the bracket that holds the ecm board to the battery tray a part number or where to find this ???i found mine laying in engine compartment.

Mine was the same when I bought the car. I ended up fabbing a bracket from a piece of aluminum L. Not as pretty, but a darned sight cheaper. Maybe some day I'll get the real thing, but there are just too many more things to spend money on first.

Gary

Hi,

My 2 cents, I really think you need to assess how structurally safe your car is to drive before you worry about fuel pumps, brackets etc... From the pic you posted it looks like the Longs could be really compromised.

I would get it on a lift and have a trusted expert have a look at it before you spend anything on little things.

Post more pics of the Longs, Hell Hole, Battery tray, floor pans etc...if you can.

Cheers.

The fuel pump you were looking at was for a 911 with MFI. NOT the same pump used on your car. That was not a bad price for a MFI pump. If yours quits again re read the post about the NAPA pump. I think your in over your head. IF you don't weld and are not planning to learn you need to run from this project.

I was offered help to weld I'm ordering rockers and battery tray and other stuff but need sheet of metal all stuff I have been reading is 20 gauge aluminized steel is this what most are using ? Also picked up a Clark mig wilder with gas and going to run #23 wire for auto welding so I'm trying to get ready to do this right......

You certainly have a project on your hands. I agree it would be wise to determine the real extent of the rust which is always worse than it looks on the surface - mechanical work is far cheaper and easier than major body work.

Then you need determine what your goals are:

1) Project car that will take years and $$$ (always more than estimated) to make right, but will offer satisfaction in knowing you brought a car back from the dead.

2) Something to tinker on but be able to drive and enjoy immediately or soon while you take your time making her right.

3) Something that is well sorted and upgrades being the "need" , but given the car you bought, I'd say this isn't the path you were interested in.

One major consideration is that you'll invest far more into this car than she'll be worth. But all hobbies cost money (cars and sailing for me- big cash outlays but worth it to me).

For me, I went route 2. My '73 was restored during '03-'04 which included hell hole replacement, jack tube replacements, left long repair, and sail panel replacements. I bought it 4 years ago with 27k miles since restoration. I paid about 30 cents on the dollar put into restoring it.

As you can see, she has changed a bit...

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Looks great hope I can make mine look like that..did you learn how to weld doing this car?

20 gauge cold rolled steel. Clean and prime each patch with weld through primer before you weld it in. That way it's protected against rust even if it's inside where you can't get to it later.

Not my work, PO saved the car from the crusher - he had a shop do the body work.