As I was cleaning up the engine bay I starting looking at the fuel lines and found this. Any ideas on a fix without having to replace the center tunnel lines?
It's the line that comes out of the firewall on the left.

Replacing those lines in the tunnel is actually very easy--Just remove your shifter-and the other access plates so you can get your hand in there-and your splash pan on the front crossmember---and feed in a new section of metal line---

This is a good thing to do anyways--that plastic line that has been in there for the last 30+ years is ripe for replacement anyways--

Hey man--what in the hell is that thingy with the XXXX's in it??? My car dont have that--

QUOTE (jwalters @ Feb 5 2005, 05:44 PM)

Hey man--what in the hell is that thingy with the XXXX's in it??? My car dont have that--

Plastic air deflectors. One on each side. Helps keep road debris out of the fan area.

QUOTE (vsg914 @ Feb 5 2005, 05:49 PM)

Helps keep road debris out of the fan area.

Also aids in cooling the engine. I need one for the passenger side.

My engine needs all the cooling it can get.

QUOTE (jwalters @ Feb 5 2005, 03:44 PM)

Hey man--what in the hell is that thingy with the XXXX's in it??? My car dont have that--

I have an extra if you need it. Just let me know.

I couldn't find the pelican article on fuel line replacement. Anyone have a link?

Thanks

the xxxx thing is a spoiler for air flow, it turbulates the air under the car so it hits the heads, instead of just flowing under the car. i have read that it keeps temps down another 10 degrees or so.

there is now way it affects the fan for rocks and stuff, the fan gets its air from the top. sorry

i have a set if someboby needs em for some reason a water cooled suby does not need them

bird board fuel line replacement

i bought one once just cuz it had the 914 part number on it and never knew what it was..hm.

QUOTE (Headrage @ Feb 6 2005, 12:45 PM)

I couldn't find the pelican article on fuel line replacement. Anyone have a link? Thanks

Rage--it is very straight fwd--you should not encounter any problems with it at all--use a thin walled metal tube so it will bend somewhat easily--when you disconnect the rubber lines from the tunnel lines--on the front ones --pull of the big rubber grommet holding the metal parts of the plastic lines--then from the back just pull--they come right out--to reinstall-pull your interior access plates and the shifter so you can bend the hold tabs--it would be best to have two people doing this--one pushing in the new line from the rear and one in the car guiding it along--it really is easy--good luck!

QUOTE (scott thacher @ Feb 6 2005, 12:20 PM)

the xxxx thing is a spoiler for air flow, it turbulates the air under the car so it hits the heads, instead of just flowing under the car. i have read that it keeps temps down another 10 degrees or so. there is now way it affects the fan for rocks and stuff, the fan gets its air from the top. sorry i have a set if someboby needs em for some reason a water cooled suby does not need them bird board fuel line replacement

Well Scott, I believe you correct. I spoke out of turn. My bad!

QUOTE (jwalters @ Feb 6 2005, 11:06 AM)

use a thin walled metal tube so it will bend somewhat easily--

but not copper piping....i heard it sheads/flakes off bc of the gasoline? Not to mention the work hardeneing of the copper....

Recent discussion on replacement fuel lines here: Fuel line replacement

I doubt that it will be all that difficult to do. Just want to get as much info as I can before starting. I guess I'm lucky with this one because my son is an instrumentation tech so bending and fitting tubing is his bag.

QUOTE (bd1308 @ Feb 6 2005, 02:11 PM)

QUOTE (jwalters @ Feb 6 2005, 11:06 AM) use a thin walled metal tube so it will bend somewhat easily-- but not copper piping....i heard it sheads/flakes off bc of the gasoline? Not to mention the work hardeneing of the copper....

You are correct--copper is not a good way to go--with all the vibration in the car it will work harden and crack--only specially made alloys of copper are good for this---gas really has no effect on it--it is also very soft and the hold down tabs will work thier way thru it from minut vibration--

QUOTE (Headrage @ Feb 6 2005, 02:31 PM)

I doubt that it will be all that difficult to do. Just want to get as much info as I can before starting. I guess I'm lucky with this one because my son is an instrumentation tech so bending and fitting tubing is his bag.

Trust me ,, you will have no problems with this--

QUOTE (scott thacher @ Feb 6 2005, 12:20 PM)

i have a set if someboby needs em for some reason a water cooled suby does not need them

Scott,

I'd like to take you up on that offer. I will pm you. Thanks.

Mc Master Carr industrial supply shipped me some Nylon 11 tubing, which is great for the fuel system. Nylon 11 is flexible, and gasoline resistant. I think the original is a Nylon, it will last a long time, however it is readily attacked by sulfuric acid (battery acid)

They offer both metric, and inch tubing at about 40 or 50 cents a foot Althought the 8 mm is the exact fit, I choose the 5/16 inch (extremely close size, not really noticable, and besides, thats what my rubber fuel hoses are, 5/16 inch) I choose this, cause the metric size only came in colors, including white, the inch size came in a natural non-pigmented nylon color (transluscent white) It is listed as drinking water grade, as it has no pigments to leach out, the colored ones would hide any dirt that you otherwise might detect in the translucent line, and I think the natural nylon likely is more like what the factory line might have looked like when new.

I am not doing the tunnel lines, as they seem fine, but the ones from the firewall out are getting re-done in new Nylon 11

Hey, in the photo, is that a standard cloth braided Low pressure fuel hose I see? If that is low pressure, it cannot be used on the return line, only the supply line up to the pump, If you have a front mounted pump all lines back from the pump MUST be high pressure Fuel Injection grade hose.

Only the supply to the pump is at low pressure, however, it is pretty well accepted those cloth braided lines tend to be cheap, and rot fast, so use all the good stuff high pressure FI hose thru out you car. I even do so on my low pressure carbed Spitfire and Bug, The FI hose lasts much longer. The regular hose is unsafe on a FI equiped car, do not use it in that application.