Put me down for 1 Please ....

I'm confused now.
I'm just about to put my new engine together.
2056 cc
9590 cam
8,5/1 CR
037 ECU
017 CHT plus Resistor
BUT 043 MPS which I thought can be calibrated like 037 MPS. Is that not possible?
Do I need to look out for a 037 or 049 MPS since the 043 can not be adjusted to that settings?

Thanks,
Frank

It's easier to adjust a MPS using a 044 ECU out of a 74 than a 037 ECU. You have to have enough room (richness) at the WOT and using a 037 barely has enough. Plus you must have the rare 017 CHT with resistor for the idle to work at all with the 037 ECU.

yes, this is what I do to adjust a MPS...multiple runs to get it setup using a LM2 o2 sensor setup....

AArgh, I have two working 037 ECU's and always thought the problem is only the 017 CHT which is NLA. I have two NOS units of that...
That means I need to look for a 044 ECU now otherwise my engine will end up idling to rich and run to lean at WOT?
Thanks,
Frank

It is wonderful to see a hero post this. Thanks so much for all you put together.

My $0.02 is that when I needed a replacement cam I decided to step up to a modified Webcam and increased the compression ratio. So easy to do while you are at it. I have no comparison data but I believe that made it harder to set the MPS for optimal running. I have to run rich to make it run cool.

I bought an inductance meter on ebay and found that a stock unit ran just as you said it would. My own MPS had lost the original settings during disassembly and I managed to tune it according to your graph, making multiple graphs from different units and after tuning on the car. The initial setting made the car turn over, but I had to tweet it after that with multiple trips around the block in between. I drilled the cap and made my own tools, but they are just what you can buy.

I wish I could log vacuum and my gauges so as to get A/F and CHT along with vacuum and RPM. I keep swerving off the road when I look at the many gauges added on.

Thanks again!

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It's easier to adjust a MPS using a 044 ECU out of a 74 than a 037 ECU. You have to have enough room (richness) at the WOT and using a 037 barely has enough. Plus you must have the rare 017 CHT with resistor for the idle to work at all with the 037 ECU.
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I ran a potentiometer in series with the cht resistor so I can add or subtract from the cabin. It makes a difference, but I am not so sure it is worth it. My idea is that I could add resistance if the heads get too hot.

I spent a lot of time futzing with my MPS's (I have two I use to compare) both with an inductance meter and during "road tests." Car has run really well, if somewhat rich based on my wideband readings. Being the slow learner that I am, I was focused too much and too long on getting inductance readings at or close to Anders' values rather than trusting my wideband and the car's actual performance. The pros were telling me this and I should have listened (but again, I'm a slow learner).

The other problems I have is just the variations in driving conditions (ambient temps, different loads, car not fully at operating temp, changing octane, etc.) would make it difficult for me to get reliable info. I need to control all the variables except one, right? That probably means finding a shop with a dyno nearby.

The 037 ECU was setup for the 72-73 1.7L and Porsche had to make it work for the 73 2.0L as Bosch didn't have enough time to make a 2.0L unit. Hence the 037 MPS and 017 Cht with resistor. Using a 037 ECU is just a lot harder to make work with a 2056cc engine with a Raby cam as it needs a richer mix. So starting with a ECU that already needs a way richer mix means you have little adjustment left on the MPS. Way easier to use a 044 ECU......and it runs and idles better believe me.

this might be slightly off topic but involves the d-jet and rebuilding MPS's, so im hoping to get some direction of how to go about tuning my 2 MPS i recently rebuilt from Chris Foley kits - i have a 75 2.0 d-jet, and one MPS that runs great - stock set up all the way around.
I recently rebuilt 2 mps - one with a torn diaphragm, one did not. One with torn diaphragm had never been opened and plug is unmolested- i opened it, put in new diaphragm, seal etc. pre-measured the inner and outer screws in the diaphragm to set the new one same as old one, hoping it would be close and run, but it does not -
#2 rebuild had been messed with before - so rebuilt and re-sealed, reassembled-
the car will not run with either of tthem - i will have to remove the plug now and the full load stop to adjust the screw to tune - at this point i don't know if its too lean or too rich - i will assume too lean? last time i tuned one to get it running, i had someone set the MSP with LCR to stock setting, it was way lean, and adjusted almost 2 full turns to get to where the idle, part-load setting @(13.5) and WOT were at the 12.7 Mr. Anders sited, so i will assume that is where i am with these 2 newly rebuilt ones I was hoping i wouldnot have to sent them to anyone but be able to get it to start, and then go from there with my A/f meter that is installed.
Any advice for me going forward from those that have done the MPS rebuild and getting the newly fixed and sealed MPS to run? - they hold vac perfectly and test with meter correctly at terminals -
thanks for the help d-jet experts.

Phil

Those numbers sited on the Anders' site are targets based on his sampling. And there are going to be some differences in LCR and O2 readings across different setups. I think there may be various opinions about how valid those numbers are.

Still, I guess I'm a little surprised if someone that knew what they were doing set an MPS based on those values and it required that much adjustment to get it in line...but I guess it's possible. It got you close enough so you could then dial it in based on Air/Fuel readings, which is what you should do anyway.

The other MPS you repaired - I can only guess that you didn't put the inner and outer screw back close to previous measurement despite your best efforts. That's really hard to do, IMHO.

Why not buy an LCR? There are cheap ones out there (~$40) that should get you ballpark.

good idea, that would be worth the investment, as you say to get it close. You are probably right, the outer screw or maybe both are not where they should be. I may play with it just a bit more, I was just surprised it wasn't close enough to at least run.

I believe you and I'm looking for a 044 ECU right now.
Thank you so much for the information you share here to find that out myself would have taken years...
Only thing I didn't understand 100% is: Could I use my 043 MPS and adjust it or must it be a 049 MPS?

Thanks,
Frank

o.k. so as of today I found only one for sale out there, its listed on a site called
OTEinstruments.com, and is $154.

Are we talking inductance meter? Mine was in the $40-50 range. Not a name brand, but it worked.

How about LCR Meter

There are lot out there. One word of caution from my experience: cheaper ones are coming from, ...wait for it..., China. Mine took a slow boat and got delayed in customs as it has lithium batteries. I think I waited a month to receive.

awesome thread. thank you

yes, either one will work fine with adjustment as they don't have the inner WOT stop cast into the cover.