QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Feb 27 2005, 08:32 PM)

i have an unmodified cam gear and cam bolts.....

That’s the problem.

I’ve seen guys clear the cam gear bolts by grinding them…but that’s the wrong way.
Sort of works on a aftermarket gear.

After that stock or the 38mm…I’d use that FF cover but they’re like 80 bucks.
I’d measure the OD and ID of the pump/hole before I put it in.

QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Feb 27 2005, 04:26 PM)

QUOTE (Dominic @ Feb 27 2005, 05:21 PM) QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Feb 27 2005, 02:48 PM) car is a driver.... no leaks now... really dont want to split the case. to replace oil PSI pistons... i need to drill/tap the case? i thought the galley plugs unscrewed..... No, you don't have to drill/tap anything to change the oil press relief pistons. Just remove the large slotted plug on the bottom of the case and the 12mm or 14mm 12 point plug on the side of the case to access these parts. You have to change both oil press relief pistons. thats what i figured. they unscrew.... engine come out of the car.... unscrew the 2 galley plugs.... replace oil pump (which pump??? To be decided) and pop in the 2 new oil PSI pistons, and then button the whole thing back up correct?

The plugs to which you guys keep referring are NOT the oil galley plugs. They're the oil pressure relief valve covers. The oil galley plugs are aluminum plugs press fit into various bores drilled into the case to allow the oil to get where it needs to go. There are a couple behing the flywheel, and some on the other end of the case. They must be drilled and popped out for a really thorough cleaning, but they have been known to remove themselves on occasion. Instant oil dump, and instant loss of oil pressure. Replacement plugs are 1/4" pipe plugs, in most instances, and the plugs are usually aluminum so the expansion rate is the same as that of the case. Drilling and tapping must be done with extreme care to prevent the chips from entering the oil system and taking out the bearings. The post regarding the undesirability of too much flow is right on the money. You lose the cooling properties of the oil, and end up with problems you really don't want to have. As I recall, higher flow pumps do just that, they flow more volume, they don't make significantly higher pressure. pressure is the product of the clearances in the engine and the pressure on the pistons controlling that pressure. The Cap'n

Yep, guess I haven't been clear...I said way back to check your end-play for one ...if your bearings are beat no pump will cure it.

The galley plugs are 3/8" (the 5 main ones that leak) these are the ones that can blow out. So can your cooler. I don't like to drill and tap on a assembled engine, (I have BTW).

The FF (full flow) pressure relief, oil pump cover I'm talking about can prevent blow out.

I don't see Type 4's FF pressure relief pump cover...I'd like to know what psi it's set at?? Is it AL or steel??? How it's valved???

[FONT=Arial][FONT=Arial][FONT=Arial] I just put the gear on this New webcam the bolts is just snugged up not torqued down, I slide the pump in without a gasket so everything is closer that it would be when install fo real.
Still plenty of clearance hard too see but about .120.

Hmm Try that again.

The cover is aluminum and is built like the Berg cover.

An aluminum cover will give you the same pressure problem back in about a year or so of daily driving.

Not the same as a Berg cover (which is steel) if the cover also supports the gears. Something has to be different....

can you elaborate mark?

Take a look at a used, stock steel, type 1 oil pump cover.

The gears try to drill through the cover...

That is due to the shaft not being supported at both end like a type 4 pump.