I needed a new alternator for the Turbo 1.7 car and with all of the upgrades I've done I thought I'd look around for a higher amperage unit to install. I know this has been done before, but I wanted something that was a more natural fit. And while I was looking, something with 'modern' technology would be nice.

I found a unit that looked promising and took the leap. It's a built to order, made in the USA unit. It features a built in regulator for a single wire installation, and it's 150 amps (also available in 240 amp! ).

It finally arrived last week and holding it roughly in place nothing jumped out as a major problem, but there were a few tweaks to the housing. So a little trimming of the two mounting points, a bushing to reduce the pivot shaft diameter to 8mm, and drilling the top mount to 8mm it fits perfectly. Works just like an original unit, has MORE clearance than a stock unit although it weighs quite a bit more.

I want to get this installed in my car before I make any promises, but this is looking like a REALLY easy upgrade. NO MORE VOLTAGE REGULATOR!!!

So, what happens when the voltage regulator fails? How much heavier and what might be the cost?

Good work!

Pulley fan or rear cooling duck???

The alternator is sold just as it's shown. I am probably going to merge a 914 alternator rear housing and the one that came on this unit. Should be able to make that work pretty easily.


The VR may be replaceable, but I expect this new stuff to be much more robust. Which means, I expect to never have to touch this alternator/VR again ever. I didn't weigh it, but I would guess around double the weight. Cost TBD, but a rebuilt unit is under $100, and this will be at least triple that, plus...

Looked and theres a fan inside.

Looks good, Mark. Will the OEM alternator tin fit (or will it need to be modified a bit)?

Looks like you are on a good find.
Was this alternator designed for a specific rotation? I believe the air should exit to the front. If it has an internal fan, will it be able to do this? No all fans can be reversed

Just heard back that the alternator is the correct rotation for the Type 4.

Noticed that one too. Very common though. So much so that they named tape that way.

I think even the HVAC people spell it that way now. It's about time.

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That is good news. Where does the air exit?

One of my hobbies involves tropospheric ducting

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There is warm air at the North Pole?

Also i can hardly wait Mark. Being decrepit and holding the alternator up there. Well, will the weight be an issue?

I'll weigh it tomorrow...

Since I'm going the efi route I think I'm going to need one of these....

Efi doesn't need high amps. It's more hot big headlights, seat heaters, stereo, etc.

Any updates, Mark?

What the heck is a seat heater?

Awesome on this high output alternator!! Perhaps electric heat is a possibility (giggle)!!

Actually, I've already picked out a heater unit to try. It's 50amps, but with this alternator, that still leaves me 100 amps to spare!

Yep, an electric heater's been on my list for a long time

What's the estimate for how much HP that alternator is going to steal away?

Hi Mark,

Electric heaters have been discussed before and usually the conclusion has been that they will not provide enough heat, but --- I decided to revisit the formulas for heat generation and temperature rise in a confined space.

600 watts = 2047 btu
I estimated the 914 cabin space as 75 cubic feet. I also assumed it was poorly insulated.
2047 btu's will raise the temperature of that space between 25 and 30 degrees.
This assumes that the cabin air is recirculated, not outside air being heated and directed into the cabin.

So...I think this may have a chance of working out. If so, I may have to drive up to see you since my car has no heat (headers)!

Darryl

I have used this one for two years ..works great...
has low / high switch

http://dcthermal.com/catalog/sa12-5000-bru...ss-cabin-heater

Got some pics of your setup?

Just a caution on the heat output claims many of the Internet resellers make. Watts and BTUs are directly convertible units. One watt = 3.41 BTUs. A heater that draws 50 amps at 12 volts CANNOT produce than 2047 BTUs - not the 10,000 BTUs claimed by DCThermal.

That being said, as I stated in my post earlier, 2047 BTUs of heat generation will probably siffice for those of us that live in moderate climates. It would do little to warm a 914 in Minnesota but neither did the standard heat exchangers.

Darryl

Yeah, I'm in the Bay Area. Put in some seat heaters and minimal heat could work. I guess the big deal is can you get enough heat to defrost the windshield of needed.

Installed this today. Went just as smooth as expected, although I did need a smaller belt because this has a smaller pulley. Went with a 940mm unit. Made my own power cable with the new big-ass crimper I got. Didn't notice a damn bit of difference on my drive home, which is a good thing. That means everything is working like it should. Now time for electronic goodies like seat heaters.

Did you ever try your electric heat unit? Seat heaters are going to work for sure. And for mild climates, an electric heater that pushes even some meoderately warm air (mostly for a defrost of the window situation) is all that is needed.

That's pretty cool! Back in the day I modified a 1 wire 150 amp GM alternator to fit in my 74 914. Worked great, but I decided to do a restore so that meant no GM parts. I'm a HUGE fan of the toys; seat heaters, power windows, remote start, etc. All that stuff adds up quickly. I have no intention of putting anything other than power locks, and keyless entry, in my 914, but I still want a higher output alternator. I'll wait until mine dies first

Not yet. After the move and I get settled in the new shop there should be way more time for these fun R&D side projects. It's one of the reasons I'm moving.