So I am wondering if what tarret engineering says about the solid motor mounts providing more precise shifting is true? Is it noticeable? Worthwhile? Do you have both solid motor mounts and solid tranny mounts on your track car? I have heard that solid motor OR solid tranny mounts are a good thing but not both... But honestly I'm just not sure??? It seems to me that if I have both my 3.6 might rip my little car to shreds, at a minimum it seems like it would rattle every nut and bolt on the car perhaps making the maintenance even higher on an already maintenance intensive ride. Please give me your thoughts/experiences. Hey Chris please chime in. Thanks a ton guys!

On my 4 cyl race engines I prefer to use a solid mount at the front and a hard rubber mount at the transmission ears.

Solid rubber as in like the WEVO style trans mounts?

Most engines are not designed to be stressed member.
4 point solid mounts turn it into one.
If you want to ignore this info, feel free.

Or 911 Sport engine mounts.

I have the RJ bulkhead engine mount and use 4 x 911 sport mounts, two in the front for the engine and two on the transmission side.

I've got 911 sport mounts up front and WEVO on the trans -- works well.

I've run solid and Wevo. I agree with JP that solid is not the way to go.

Following this thread.

I've got solid motor mounts and what appears to be poly or nylon transmission mounts. I looked at the WEVO site and didn't see anything like that. These are black material block with a mounting plate. I'll post photos for opinions on if they are too dense or not.

So is the black part nylon? Are these made of aluminum? They look pretty heavy??? I've seen some guys take rectangular steel tubing and cut them on angles and make solid motor mounts, I guess it works but it looks pretty clunky and unrefined. For a C note you can buy some new aluminum precision built mounts that look great but they probably aren't any better... Well maybe lighter?

Those are solid mounts. It's a piece of Delrin and aluminum.

Those Weltmeister hard poly trans mounts suck ass big time!
I recommend to anyone who has them - take them out and use something else.

Not Delrin - just hard cast polyurethane.

Thanks guys. Those are out and some decent OE are in till I get something better.

WEVO makes some nice motor & trans nounts. Quite firm but allow movement.
I used them for seversl years. Not cheep.
Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment

I've been happy enough with the WEVO mounts on the 914 that I just got some for the 997 as well. Not installed yet. Not that 914's are cheap anymore, but you should see what they get for the newer 911 stuff.

I like the WEVO blue trans mounts I have. I'm still not sure that those combined with solid motor mounts is a great idea on a /4. I'd like to hear Racer Chris expound on his setup a little - are you at all worried the torsional stress and vibration weakens the case at all?

Can you explain why? I have them currently with stock front mounts (side shifter).

I purchased and installed the WEVO trans mounts. A really nice product. However, at an autocross event yesterday, on my first run, I was unable to get second gear. Apparently the WEVO mount is about 1/2" shorter than OE. Therefore the transmission is slightly raised and that changes the geometry of the shift linkage. My fix was to lengthen the shift rods by pulling them about 1/2" apart at the junction and then tighten. Of course this transmission has not been rebuilt so there's probably other issues beyond that.

I didn't have any trouble when I put my Wevo mounts in. They bolted right up and everything worked fine. Maybe they changed?

Or maybe he needs to put the large cup washer back on there ...

I thought about that Andy. WEVO puts everything in order with a tie wrap and instructions. The cup washer wouldn't hurt either. I'll give that a try. I also need to adjust the shifter per this procedure...

914 Shifting Improvements

The front shifter bar is inserted into the bottom of the shifter lever and is clamped down with an M8 bolt (#1). If the shift bar is not properly aligned with the shifter lever, the car may easily 'knick' reverse when going into second. The best way to align the shifter mechanism is to place the transmission into reverse gear. Then loosen the M8 bolt and pull the lever down into 1st gear. You need to hold the shifter bar steady with your hand while you pull the lever down into first. To do this, hold it through the access hole underneath the center cushion. Now place the shift lever all the way to the left (as if you were going into first) and then insert the front bar back into the bottom of the shifter lever by pushing up into reverse. This is much easier said than done, and may take a few tries. The good news is that after this alignment is complete, you shouldn't have any more problems related to a misaligned linkage.

Rebel makes some mounts that I understand are similar to the Wevo ones. I put a pair in my 911 and am happy with them. I think they were about $100.

Since they are semi-solid mounts, I did not use the cup washers with them.

Scott

I am still interested in hearing why these suck.
I currently have them on my car.

Those are essentially solid mounts.
Unless an engine is designed and tested as a structual member, the flex will distort
the crankcase. I have read about Honda's difficulties with this in an engine designed just for this....oops. I guess that wasn't strong enough to carry the load. I think it was for Indy car but it may have been for F1....both are rigged to support the rear suspension/tub (attach points for which are on the trans). Some BIG bucks involved. here.

We had issues with this over summer, retrofitting Honda F20C's into Formula Atlantics. Cam cover was never designed to be a stuctural member of the chassis. 901 gearboxes were DEFINITELY not designed to be "stressed" members... haha

I have OEM mounts up front and WEVO at the transaxle, HOWEVER if improved shifting is your goal, there are lots of better parts to invest in than these mounts.

Since you have a 3.6 "race" car it is difficult to assume you even have a shift rod or what your linkage looks like. Racer Chris has put a lot of development into improved shifting, and my Rennshifter is awesome, so.....did you already replace all the shift rod bushings, upgrade that pivot, install the solid-bar improvement at the final linkage point??

P.S. I do recall a small fiasco installing the WEVO transaxle mounts. 5 years ago. The washers and their orientation are critical. Do it wrong, it don't fit like OEM. Do it right, it does.

John's shift linkage will be ready to ship tomorrow.
He has a Vellios 915 which will be the first one with my precision adjuster.

I would also think that the added stresses on 40 year old magnesium or aluminum would only add to the work-hardening and eventually end in a breakage at the mount/case interface. Am I off base here?

I also read the Offenhauser Book. Back before my time when fellas tried the old marine four banger with a four point mount in a sprint car, they ate main bearings due to flex of the case.....babbit bearings in the Offy case.......same as Honda cept 80 years later. Honda was aware of the flex possibilities but screwed the pooch.
Offy went to a 3 point mount.

Both of those engines were/are a hell of a lot stronger than a T-4 with a KNOWN weakness with case flex, regardless of mounting.