In the almost year I have been acvite on the club, I have seen or heard about lots of glass flares being installed on 914's. Rick(alien) mentioned once he had to pull the lower corners out, add some material to keep them there. Others mentioned being able to see glass mat through the paint ect. Well, I will post more detialed pic's of course, but here is a couple of the flares I am putting on CAMP914's V8 car. His yellow on had rear flares installed (FG) and I am putting the front ones on for him.

These two are not close up shots. But I wanted to stress the importance of storing FG stuff properly. I am assuming the person who did this car bought all 4 flares and only installed the rears. Then I am guessing the fronts were stored for a length of time. These flares must have been laid out flat? It took a while and a lot of screws to get them shaped correctly to the fender. I started out by taping them on, marking them and then cutting inside the line 1/2-1". Then grinding the paint off down to bare metal. Fit and screw the flare on. I use little screws for ease of removal. After this weekend, I will show the different stages of bonding outside, inside, remove screws, bond outside, inside, sand, bond, sand, bond, sand, bond, fill and feather. it is a long process, but it is super strong when you are done and if done right, you will have even a paper thin layer of evercoat over all glassing so after you paint, you won't see any mat or holes etc.

Great! We'd love to see that

Here is the other side, only ones I have for now. I carefully sand down the glass flare edge after screwing on the flares to lower the FG and pre form it even better to the fender. Then I carefully glass and mat between the screws front and back. On Craigs car here, the PO sprayed the tar underbody in the fender wells. Great stuff, until you try to remove it! I still have little black specs on my face (tar). I usually only grind down to bare metal only as far back as I need, 1-2" is about all you need. After this weekend, I will post more close ups. This way Craig will see I am really working on his car too!

This is a shot of another 914 I did. You can get an idea of how much is cut off the car. I only leave 1/2 - 1" lip to bond the flare to. The very first set I did(years ago), I left a huge 3-4" lip which hung low. Not good, leaves places for dirt to collect and you cannot bond from both sides. But I will shoot pic's of the inside this weekend.

looks great Root... show us the whole process... great idea for a thread
thanks
steve

What products are you using?

Good work by the way!

Just FG resin and cloth. I will post more on the filler I use after this weekend. I use a FG filler, it is strong, very hard to sand. So I apply a couple of very thin layers so I am not sanding for hours. Then I use evercoat to lightly cover all the work so you don't ever see screw holes or seams. I will also show better pictures of what I leave on the lower part of the fender for support so the flares don't "Sag" over time.

Go, Dan Go.

I'm still picking f/g dust out of my nose 6 months later.

Paul

Hey cool, DIY plastic knockers! Kiss me, I'm a plasket sturgeon!

So, the bond is over both sides, and they are both ground out, and then re-matted, or just filler?


M

Hey Root Werks!

Really interested in this thread. I posted some pix of my FG flare install
a couple of weeks ago. We got a couple days of warm weekend weather
here in VA and I got started on the flares.

I have a question for you..... I made up a couple test coupons before starting
the flare install to see which method gave me the most strerngth and to
get a feel for fibermorphing again, 'cause it's been a couple years since my last project.

Making the test coupons I found that I had to cut short pieces of cloth to fit
between the screw down points. If I used a long piece of cloth the hold down screw
would tend to grab the cloth and spin it around making a mess. Of course I was able to lay extra long pieces of cloth 12"" or so around the out side edge of the hold down screws.

The question is how do you do this (laydown the inner cloth)? I'll post a pic of the way I do it next time the weather breaks here. I just don't want to sand in the garage fiber
resin dust gets in everything,

here's one of the pics from my post .....

nice dan. for craig, is this j-lo?

k

QUOTE (rhodyguy @ Feb 26 2005, 08:55 AM)

nice dan. for craig, is this j-lo? k

This is the V8 car he just got not too long ago. FG flares one the rear, but not the front, speaking of, better go get to work on it.

ok. i think it's the gh car. it's hard to keep track with craig.

k

Here is a little better shot to show how I glass between the screws, front and then the back side.

One more like the last one.

That last shot you can see I actually sanded down the flare better before glassing it to the fender. This shot shows what metal I left behind to bond to on the lower corners of the fender. 99% of paint is ground away to bare metal. Sometimes I miss a little spot here and there, but I awlays grind it clean. This 914 had THICK underbody coating which cost a lot of time to prep.

This one shows a good shot of how well the inside of the flare fit against the fender. It is a good fit and will be bonded 100% around the seam. I finished all the bonding inside yesterday. I took this pic in the middle of cleaning up still.

Last one for now, simple FG matierials I am using. All the screws got pulled out yesterday so I could bond the inside seams 100% around and lower corners. Today I will sand off 50% of what I bonded on the front and re-bond it. But more on that later.... The front of the fender flares have warped a little over time. Paul knows what I am talking about!

I feel sort of bad for not posting more of the process, but my father was in the hospital for a week. So my time to document seemed to go out the window. Anyway, here is some shots of how I removed the tabs for the BUB's (Big Ugly Bumpers). Craig wants to backdate the bumpers which I think will look nothing short of amazing on this car. Just adding the front flares totaly changed the look of the car!

I used a hand cold metal chisle to remove the spot welds so no holes drilled. Just "popped" them off, then ground the little spot welds flat. These will clean up perfect and craig will be able to paint these areas when he has his front fenders painted. It is like there were never there. The front has 3 pieces that need to be removed. The sides and the looooong piece that goes along the front.

That loooong peice. Oh, only two side pieces need removing on the back.

Sort of the "money" shot. They only need a little finish sanding and they are ready to paint.

I didn't like putting the BUB's back on, but the car will be driven back down to CAMP tomorrow, so, no choice.

Dan I hate to tell you this but those are not the flares I wanted installed??
Looks great, from here. What time is Kevin leaving?
CCLINFLAREWITCHPROJECT

the bus drops me off in the u-district around 8:00. i should be having pancakes in yakima around 10:00. i plan on being at timberline around 12:00.

k

Dan,
Looks great! I have one comment, The f/g cloth is OK stuff (thin and bends easy around corners and lays in nice and tight) but you have to build up several layers to get decent strength. I used a random woven mat materal, thicker and stronger, but may be hard to find. Boating supply stores would have it, which here in Florida is not a problem.

Nice work, welcome to the world of f/g resin fumes and dust.

Paul

Resin smells good.

Yeah, I had to build up a couple of layers. It is strong, really strong all around. You can tug on them, sit on them etc and they hold tight. I was really happy with they way these turned out. It is the third set I have done, so I have gotten pretty good at it. Next I am going to try the steel flares I got last week!

QUOTE (boxstr @ Mar 6 2005, 08:42 PM)

Dan I hate to tell you this but those are not the flares I wanted installed??

Kiss my what?

When you put the flares on, can you just bolt up the rockers or they have to be modified? How hard is that?

QUOTE (clark2 @ Mar 7 2005, 04:43 PM)

When you put the flares on, can you just bolt up the rockers or they have to be modified? How hard is that?

So far, I have just gotten the flared FG rockers from rennspd.com. They are $150 and money well spent. Only needed a little trimming and yep, they pretty much just bolted on. I think Craig plans on getting some I am sure and painting them body color.

as for the smell of resin, go check out what that stuff does to you it will scare you pretty well

QUOTE (scott thacher @ Mar 8 2005, 07:51 AM)

as for the smell of resin, go check out what that stuff does to you it will scare you pretty well

I am going to have to look now. But I wear a mask when I work with FG and really don't work much with it at all. Not sure if the mask helps or not? Hmm, time to google up some info.

the bad chemical is methyl ethyl ketone peroxide, and it can hurt your liver, and nervious system and the worse part... it can be absorbed thru you skin

this is an edited quote from a chemical company :

... Exposure to high temperatures or contamination with foreign materials may result in explosive decomposition. Maximum storage temperature 38°C (100°F). Decomposition temperature 68°C (155°F).

MEKP is a strong irritant. Avoid swallowing and all contact with eyes and skin. Ingestion can be fatal!... If swallowed, take large quantities of milk or water and immediately call a physician. MEKP in the eye may result in irreversible blindness, even if flushed out with water! Flush the eyes immediately with water. SECONDS COUNT! Continue flushing for at least 30 minutes... Do not take chances with this chemical. Wear goggles, gloves, protective clothing, and a respirator, and be careful.
... Violent decomposition and fire could result from such mixing or contamination.... Spilled material should be absorbed in inert materials such as vermiculite or sand and then wet with water. All such contaminated material should be placed in double polyethylene bags and kept out of doors and away from combustibles until it can be removed by qualified hazardous waste personnel.


here is osha page on it