These are the guys located across the sound in Monroe, WA. I have a 1975 2.0 914 with 76K (don't know if it's original or not)

PR007834
REINZ Complete Engine
Gasket Set
73-76 2.0 52.81

BH021911
BOSCH Air Filter
914/4 1.8 & 2.0 6.02

VW022612
CONTINENTAL V Belt
914/4 Air Pump 4.71

VA022642
CONTINENTAL V Belt
914/4 Alternator 5.19


VA006426
KS Camshaft Bearing Set
914/4
13.24

PR007828
TRW Intake Valve
914/4 2.0 Ltr.
39.51

PR007829
TRW Exhaust Valve
914/4 2.0 Ltr. 61.22

PR006339
TECHNOVANCE Intake Valve Guide
914/4 .476" OD 1975 2.0 Ltr. Only 2.33


PR007838
GENUINE Engine Mount
914/4 73-76 16.18

VA053702
WHITE BOX Fuel Filter
914/4 75-76 3.76


VA006385 MAHLE
Oil Filter
914/4 4.64

VA057084
TOPLINE Oil Pump
914/4 62.77

VA010078
SABO Oil Pump Gasket
914/4 0.05

VA006384
MILLER Oil Strainer Gasket
914/4 0.85

PR007836 GOETZE
Piston Ring Set - Engine
914/4 2.0 Ltr.
94 - 1.5 x 1.75 x 4mm 65.94

VA007824
KS Rod Bearing Set
914/4 2.0 Ltr. Std. 28.32

VA006418
KS Main Bearing Set
914/4 Std.
46.99



grand total. 414.47

is there anything you else you guys think I need? I'm working with a 1K parts budget, if i do this now...

cya

fat lando

go here:

http://www.aircooledtechnology.com/store/home.php


that is the place to get stuff for the Typ4. Dont look to be under $1000.

I made the mistake of doing a "budget" job and it turned out really bad. Save and do it right the first time. You'll save in the long run.

QUOTE (fatlando @ Feb 25 2005, 02:32 PM)

TRW Intake Valve 914/4 2.0 Ltr. 39.51 TRW Exhaust Valve 914/4 2.0 Ltr. 61.22 grand total. 414.47

donno how you work the math, but i got > $400 in valves alone.

didn't see pistons & cylinders in that list, nor any machine work; you'll need a valve job, at least, and valve guides are NOT a DIY operation...

Just to give you an idea, I spent almost $900.00 just in machine work. You may not need that much depending on the shape of your heads when you take them apart. As far as the prices go, I really couldn't tell you because as a precaution to prevent unnecessary injury to myself induced by my wife I tossed the receipts.

i have about $500 in head work alone

(that is, 2.0L cylinder heads: flycut, new guides installed not including new valves)

i agree w/ArtechnikA about the valves. each valve x4

You won't need the oil pump gasket, and probably not the oil pump. Never seen a bad one in 32 years of 914 wrenching. Not the sump gasket, either. You WILL need a flywheel seal, and a pulley seal, as they don't come in the "complete" gasket set. You will likely need a cam and lifters, and pistons and cylinders are almost always needed. Wristpin bushings, and exhaust valve guides, too. Oil, injector seals, oil pressure switch, spark plugs, maybe wires,points, cap and rotor, and probably a clutch. While we're at the clutch, you will need to have the flywheel resurfaced, or maybe even replaced. I wouldn't use a Bosch air filter, Mahle/Mann/Knecht are better. Fuel injection grade fuel hose, miscellaneous vacuum hoses and fittings might also need to be on your list. The Cap'n

I just did a 2056, I think I spent 2200 maybe? The only difference from yours is you'd subtract the P/C kit, cam/lifters, and carbs/likage, leaving.... lesseee.... maybe 1250.00?

As was said, headwork:
valve job
install (new) guides
flycut
exhaust porting
HD springs
rocker spacers
_____________
380.00 from my machinist dude


new guides
new valves
new springs
rocker spacers
____________
200.00 (IIRC)


measure and resize rods
______________
35.00

match pistons and check barrels for straightness, levelness, and all-around happy goodness,
free

Add in the price of honing your barrels, and tanking or cleaning your cases, crankshaft, oil pump, etc.

I did everything myself but the machine work and the solvent tanking, and I still had to scrub lotsa junk as my 2.0 was a core that was locked up splendidly with mung and splooge.

Definitely start saving now, as once you pull it apart, you WILL find other things to buy, even if you dont' need to, just because you're in there

If you're doing an engine drop, you might consider other things like, clutch and throttle cables, heat exchanger hardware if the PO had stripped the original stuff (ask me how I know), muffler gaskets, fuel lines, battery cables, solvents and strippers to clean and repaint the engine compartment, a second mortgage, a second job, ......

Are the heads in good shape?

holy cow! what an eye opener. Guess I'll save a little longer. sheesh!

Thanx for all the advice, it is so much appreciated.

guess you can tell this is my first time......

read all ya soon

fat lando

Locally, Jerry at NWCS in SouthPark (Just south of Seattle off Hi99) does nearly all of the aircooled machine work. Don't even try to rebuild your heads, they break.
Your cylinders can be machined and honed for 95mm pistons. Usually both are toast unless out of a low mileage engine. Jerry can grind and resurface your cam and lifters.
$1000? only if you want it to blow up pretty soon. Jerry can check all your parts and determine their condition.

Geoff

if you're planning for the future get a set of the 2.0 rods that jake may be selling, the ones we need more buyers to make happen. please?

k