Been driving my 914 frequently, just too much fun to sit in the barn all summer. Couple of days ago I noticed the rear decklid gaps had gotten terrible (see pic). Checked it out and it seems that the hinge-mount-thingy is no longer secured to the car. Looks like a weld has failed.

Now, I can take this car completely apart and I have significant knowledge of the engine/drivetrain having spent 25 years with a VW bus, but I can't weld, and I am terrible at bodywork.

So, how bad is this? I imagine I'll need to take it somewhere, but need somewhere that "knows" 914s?

I am in the Louisville KY area so if anyone knows a shop that is capable of fixing this, I'd love to hear about them. Cincy and Indy are within driving distance if the shop is that good.

Click to view attachment

Pelican sells a J West kit to fix it with a bolt-in hinge. I think it costs about $80 and it's a bit of a pain to install but it worked on my "73.

Nick

Heck you are not that far away we could organize a weekend fix/road trip.

Of course it might cost you a few beers. And if those rims on yours happen to go missing while the repairs are being done I wouldn't know anything about it.

See how far you are from Brad Meyer's shop. His work is worth a drive and you might get to keep your rims!

Brad Mayeur's shop is about a 5 hour drive from Louisville. Indianapolis has nothing in the way of shops that work on 914's. I'd think the best bet would be to find a member closer to you that can weld.

Steve,

I've got a MIG and I can weld if you want to try it, but I would be a little leery about burning metal just above the fuel ring. And you would have to do some painting afterward. NFBrown above might have the better solution.

Thanks for the replies, offers to help, and threats of thievery. All appreciated. I will research the bolt in kit, but having it welded is my (current) preference.

The engine is coming out of it this winter for detailing/tuning so I may drive it the rest of the summer and fall, then have it welded in the winter when the engine is out.

Anyone see a problem with continuing to drive it? I figure if I don't open/close the rear decklid with any sort of frequency I should be OK?

Isn't the rear decklid a real PITA to remove/replace?

2 people make removing the rear lid a piece of cake. index where the current placement is with some masking tape and a sharpie. index both sides. you can make small adjustments and not lose your starting point. hopefully the hinge bracket is just pulled away and it isn't failing due to rust behind the mounting point.

The key is to determine how much rust is on both sides of the panel. If its rusty youre going to have to take care of it.

With the the JWest kit, I see it as an improvement over stock and I have a pair ready to install on Dads car when the time comes. Trunk shocks too.

Good luck!

Drive it over to Stuttgart Specialist near the Louisville Zoo/ Megan Cavern and ask Tony what needs to be done...they are a Porsche Shop....356 to Current Models including 914

1821 Taylor Ave, Louisville, KY 40213
(502) 454-5591
www.stuttgartspecialists.com

most likely the mounting bracket spot welds have popped loose on one side of the bracket....it can be fixed by removing the lid...unload the springs and re-weld the bracket....takes a while but not a terribly difficult job...send me a pm with your tel #

I'm dealing with the same issue. Have a buddy who can weld, but JWest kit seems like a good solution. But involves drilling? How hard is it to line up where to install it? Better off welding?

A job best done with the engine out.
It is very important to place the pivot accurately.
If placed poorly lid alignment can be impossible.
Also, welding upside down, below the side grill, with other interfering items will not be pretty. Been there.

What is causing this issue?

yeah, some inside photos might help.

I agree with the "engine out" comment. Welding with my head upside down, leaning over the fender would be tuff. I was able to crawl in the engine compartment and weld facing the hinge, from my knees. Seems like a lot of work for a repair tho. I wish I had gone with the upgrade hinge and gas shock. I guess next time it fails. If you have to repair the side wall then you can justify the time to drop the engine.... 20 minutes right?

It is caused by age and metal fatigue. The hinge is under LOT of pressure with the spring set up. Also, be very careful when releasing tension on the spring. I actually have a copy of the P93 tool used to relieving the tension which makes life a lot easier.

If you stay with the stock system, replace your plastic rollers while you are in there with new ones. The old ones tended to warp and get brittle with age.