I am hoping to install a Rennshifter into my 6 conversion car in the next few days...anyone have installation tips on how to set it up so the linkage adjustment is close and then can be fined tuned quickly? My tranny is a sideshifter and the long linkage rod has been slightly modified by Rich Johnson so it clears my 6 headers that looks like this.

Two people is better than one.

Have one person at the tranny holding neutral center in place, and install your side. Otherwise, trial and error, adjust and repeat.

I use the Chris Foly method: Get the shift rod a neutral position, I do this from under the car; loosen pinch lot; bunji cord the shift stick to the passenger door opener; turn the shift Rod to the right as far as it goes, I do this under the car and wedge something between the rod and the tin to hold it while I go back inside and tighten the pinch bolt. This got me 99% accuracy


After drinking a week, I tweeted the rod ; loosened the pinch bolt and adjusted the Tangerine Precision Adjuster two clicks. Shifts like a new car accuracy is 100%

I am going through this right now.

The rennshifter has a few adjustments that need to be done before you try to set the shift pattern:
There are screws that limit forward/reverse travel.
Open them up all the way, you can set those last.

There are side-side options that you can install.
I have one spring on the pass side of the shifter.
This makes the "lockout zone" on 1st & Rev so that you will feel resistance when you reach to go to 1st/rev (as the shifter moves to the drv side, it meets up with this spring)
You will probably choose to NOT have this keepout zone for 4th/5th so you would leave out the spring on the drivers side.

However you might want some side travel limit when reaching for 4th/5th so the shifter doesnt hit against the side of the mechanism.
I had a machined 1/2" shaft laying around that I cut to length and dropped in the driver's side "spring hole" that stops the shifter just short of from hitting at the top.

I also found that IF you let the shifter go too far to the pass side, the lower "elbow" (where you tighten the adjuster bolt) hits the clutch tube in the tunnel.

Put the whole assembly together but leave the adjust er nut loose.
Then have someone get under the rear and position the trans lever in the neutral slot so you can push the shift lever "plunger" all the way in or out with no effort.

Pull the plunger all the way out. This should position the trans in neutral, but all the way in the 4th/5th plane.

Now move the shifter forward/back to where you would want neutral (INNER part of shifter near vertical, NOT the lever that reaches up toward the driver)
Now push the shifter all the way towards the pass side up against the hardstop that is installed.
While the person at the trans holds the lever all the way out (still in neutral), move the shift lever just slightly off the hardstop and tighten the adjuster bolt.

NOW move the shifter side to side and have the person in the rear verify that the lever moves all the way in and all the way out when the shifter is moved from side to side.
The lever should bottom out (rev/1st) out extend all the way out (4th/5th) while still having a LITTLE bit of travel left at the shifter end.

Now with luck, 2nd/3rd should happen right about where the spring lockout is.
Now check that you have about the correct forward/reverse movement to reach all gears and adjust appropriately by repeating above.

Finally- while someone watches from the rear, set the forward/reverse travel limiter setscrews so that you can fully move the lever, but not have a lot of slop left in the shifter or you can exert a lot of force on all of the linkage parts by mashing the shifter when the laever has already traveled fully.

Then you need to do final adjustments while driving it.

I take a 1/4 ratchet wit 13mm socket and a pair of large vise grips with me.

Whenever I want to make a tiny adjustment to the lever position, I hold the shift rod through the rear access hole (rear of tunnel) with the visegrips while moving the lever to the new position, then retighten the adjuster bolt.

Just dont forget to remove the visegrips before the next test :-)

Hope that makes sense.