I haven't had to do this before so on a steep learning curve here.

I completely removed the trailing arms so that I could install new hub bearings and trailing arm bushings at the same time since the drivers side had started to pop. What I found was black Weltmeister bushings on the driver's side and white teflon bushings on the passenger side. I purchased two FAG bearings some time back getting ready for the job.

Passenger side one went in ok with a press. Got that side back together and all is good. When I got the bearing in on the driver's side, it seemed just a little loose. I made a call and was told that once I inserted the axle and tightened up on the castle nut to the 220 or so, any play would be taken up and all would be well.

Well, it wasn't. Got it all back together, bled the brakes, torqued the wheel and grabbed it to celebrate my success and "?".....what? A slight movement. I rocked the wheel at 3 and 9 and sure enough, there was a very slight movement in the wheel....made more noise that actual movement but it was in the bearing. No doubt about it. So, I broke everything apart on the driver's side and out came the trailing arm, pressed out the hub, pressed out the bearing and am ready to do it again....for the third time on a car with two trailing arms (you do the math).

I am going to try it again this morning. Anyone had this problem? Could I have damaged the bearing installing it with a press or pulling the hub in with threaded rod?

The only bearings I can get locally last night were National brand. When you take it our of the box, the two halves do seem looser than I remember the FAG bearings being....of course, I didn't pull on them much.

Was the previous bearing that came out tight?
The inner bearing races will be loose until fully assembled and tightened, but the outer race should be a tight fit once seated.
Are you sure that it seated in all the way?
Is the old race still intact to measure for comparison?

I punched out the new one I put in yesterday and tried it again with a new bearing today.

Followed the same process of pressing it in and used the same collection of items (threaded rod, large socket, large washers) to install it. BigKat83 came by today (thanks again Bob!!!) and gave me a hand, stayed for a BLT for lunch, and helped me get it back together.

It all worked great this afternoon!

Sounds like you know what you're doing. Haven't heard too many people with this issue although it could happen if the press pushes on the center of the bearing and not the outer race. Same with the threaded rod to pull the hub on being on the outer race and instead of the inner race.

This is pretty much how I did mine except I used the bearing-in-freezer method to install the bearing in the arm. Also heated the arm with with a heat gun. The bearing dropped right in with no pressure at all.

Then I froze the hub and gently heated the bearing and arm and used the threaded rod method.

I did not find out until recently, that there are different levels of bearings. It seems now there are economy, standard and performance level bearings. The tolerance of the bearing seems to be tied to the price. When I started my learning curve there was no such thing, you bought the bearing and expected it to be perfect. I experienced a similar situation on the left side rear bearing rocking as described.