Ok Guys. I have decided to sell my uncles 74 914. Question is how much more would it be worth if I replaced the rear trunk floor. Would it add that much extra value or should I leave it as is for next owner to deal with. This is the only bad rust on the car all other trouble spots are clean and solid. thanks for your help.

Can't really tell how much rust is there. Are there pin holes or larger? Are you or a friend/family going to repair it? It may cost $500+ to repair it. Not sure if you'll get the value out of the sale.

If the rest of the car is in good shape, that should carry a good price. These cars are 40+ years old; none are perfect.

From the pictures, it looks like a wire wheel and some POR-15 should do the trick.

there are some bigger holes. Biggest is maybe quarter size and where the floor meets the back has a gap that was covered from the factory caulk. not really to bad considering the others I've seen. It looked better before I wire wheeled it. I can do repairs myself. I was thinking putting a new rear pan in it. Just didn't know if i't would be worth fixing just to sell it. Thanks for responding

a proper repair is going to cost more than you will gain by doing it. A cover up will turn prospective buyers off for god. If you want to try for a couple extra bucks, cut it all out and get it prepped for a new panel. I for one would rather see it all cut out and cleaned ready for repair, than the swiss cheese it currently is. Otherwise leave it be and take what you can get.

Thanks. Any idea on the negative effect it should have on price? Just curious.

a proper trunk repair from a good shop is going to run 1500-2000.00 parts and labor. That is all depending on the shops rate, how perfect you want it done, and what may lie under the known issue. I would suspect someone looking to do it themselves might want to knock 500.00 +or- off

FWIW by proper repair, i mean :

removing the old section, sandblast and etch priming the exposed metal, hammer and dolly any distortion, fit the new panel, spot weld it back in, hammer and dolly any new distortion, sand and prime the whole lot, replace the cover piece in the center, swap the old stamped number over, seam seal and paint

That's how I would repair it. Just don't know if I want to spend the time on it for a small gain. Any thoughts on how to price the car. Would like to get a fair price for it. i could pm details if you are willing to help.

We cant tell you anything on how to price the car without more pics and details. If its just a roller car it probably isnt worth any more than 1k.

It looks like there are some decent sized holes in there. Its a great spot to learn to weld and fix as its not structural, its really easy to get to, and fixing it is fairly easy. You could patch up most of those holes in a weekend if you knew what you were doing.

IMHO I would fix it. Some 16ga steel, a wire wheel, a true mig welder, and an air grinder will make quick work of it. Do one patch at a time and patch to good metal. Use tach welds or 1/2" beads. Finish it up with a flap wheel grinder, rust preventative paint (Like Por 15), some primer, maybe some glaze putty if you want and some paint and you've got a nice repair. Note you need to treat and paint the underside as well.

I was thinking of getting a replacement panel from Restoration Design and repairing it that way. I am going to get pics this weekend and post them. i have some in another post. I didn't know if I could add here. ( I'm new to this forum ) It is far from a roller. It was restored in 94/95 ish motor completely rebuilt and all problem areas fixed. I have receipts to show all work done at that time and new clutch and other maintenance. I am replacing the fuel pump but it runs and drives great. It was restored in Pa and brought to MI for couple years. since 2000 ish it has been in Az just driven occasionally. The trunk is worst part of car. all other parts are solid. Its a 1.8 with original fi still installed and un molested.Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

Here are couple more pics for now.Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

So it is in AZ now or MI?

It is in MI now. Brought it home last week. My uncle didn't have room to keep it at his place and hasn't drove it in a while. I'm about 4 hours from you.

mcMark can help you now, he is in Detroit area....

That would be great. Is there a way to get a hold of him or if he pm me i can give him my number. I'll take any help advice I can get. Do you know where in Det area he is?

McMark is not in the Detroit area. He is in Grand Rapids area which is the other side of the state. Look for information on Original Customs.

Oh ok. Yeah that's 3 hrs from me. I'll check that out. Thanks

I recommend you remove the rocker panels and take a look at the longs. I don't believe that McMark will be open for business until the end of the month. I'm about one hr away.

BTW car looks good from the photos

David

It's hard to believe (seeing what that trunk looks like) there is NO other rust problems on the car. That said, I would probably leave it alone and sell the car as is; you won't recover the cost of a proper repair in your sale.

By that I mean, lets say it costs $1500 for a complete repair of the trunk. And you want (for example) $7000 for the car as is. You'd be hard pressed IMHO to then justify an $8500 price for the car if it was repaired.

I wouldn't mess with it. The rust is "original" to the car...

Harpo if you would be interested in looking it over with me sometime That would be great. You could pm me if interested. If not I understand. jmitro the rest of the car is clean from what I can tell I have the rockers off and hell hole and usual suspect spots look and feel good. I am taking pics today and will post later. The car had all rust repairs made and replaced in 93 and car has been in AZ last 15 years. I think my uncle must have left it parked outside or washed it and covered it and it got water in the trunk area. The pad was wet when I pulled it up. The rest of the car real is solid. Hopeful someone local can check it out to confirm this. I will get the fuel pump Mon or Tuesday and then it will be running and maybe I can drive it somewhere to get a ppi on it.

I'm certainly no expert but I can come take a look this weekend. PM me your phone & availability.

David

It was nice to meet you today

I checked my 75 wiring schematic but I can't find anything, of course I may be reading the schematic wrong. The three white wires in the engine bay same thing. There are no all white wires on my wiring diagram

After seeing the car in person I agree that the rear trunk pan should come out as a whole, way too many pin holes. There is a small rust hole that will need to be cleaned up and a patch welded in. I found no evidence of any previous repairs. The car was repainted from ivory to bright white in the past. The paint is not perfect I would rate it as good driver quality.

I learned something new today. The Taco plate on this car had no temperature sender. Is that because it is a non-appearance group car?

Document your repair process and good luck with the sale.

David
Click to view attachment

Thanks Dave it was nice meeting you too. It was super nice of you to drive all the way out here to check out my car. I appreciate what knowledge you shared and the help showing me what to look for. If there is anything I can do for you just let me know. Looking foward to getting her goin. Thanks again.

Ok guys I got a lot of pics now I just have to find out how to link them. Harpo came out Saturday and I found out the cat is More original than I thought. I thought more repairs were done to it than there was. turns out the longs are original and I thought they had been replaced. don't know if that's bad or good but they are clean and solid. Here are the pics of them.Click to view attachment

Passenger sideClick to view attachment

Here are the pics I took Saturday. lets say they are the Before Pics. This is the condition of the car as I got it. When I post it to sell it will be cleaned thoroughly.

http://s430.photobucket.com/user/mckeedad6...rt=3&page=1

is there a question about this picture? I don't have my 75 diagram in front of me(Prospero's garage) but IIRC the Blk / Blu is the rheostat. it dims the back lights on the gauges, so those 2 go on some gauge or an option of a guage that did not come on your car.

I can (or someone will know) check my diagram once I am home.

That's kind of what I thought so that's good to know. Just trying to get everything in working order before I list it