being that I don't want to go crazy on my 2.0 build,..whats the largest CC's I can go..using my old parts..standard carbed 2.0 would like to build 2056 or next size larger...if possible...??? Thanks....Frank

Weber IDF. 40mm would work. 44 IDF with 32mm Venturi, appropriate jetting. DO NOT buy a "new" weber package! You would be better off buying the cleanest, used set of Italian or Spanish ones you can source and either rebuild them yourself or hire a pro to do the job. Dellortos are a good option also.

Like the set I have for sale in the classifieds ?

Among others, but yes. I'm uncomfortable pointing out one specific ad and appearing biased. That being said I think I'll list a set of dels I have and see if a limited buyer base and plenty of inventory helps drive prices down.

Back on point. The set of carbs, outside rebuild, and a cable throttle setup will be less expensive than carbs that chances are won't work.

I already have ICT 34's that came with the car,..So instead of buying new one's,..whats the largest engine I can build,..2056 or 2170,..???can I rejet....but, I just want to assemble the engine and install so I have stk crank and rods,...Ill go bigger cam,.. and larger valves and either 96 or 101 PC's but I don't want to buy new bottom end ,..what can I do.........Thanks

RPM plays a factor as well as how large the motor is...

Doing a quick search, I found 34mm carbs supposed to flow in the 109cfm (each) from one site...no idea how accurate.

If you play with the calculators you can see the relationship of engine size and rpm...increase either one and you need more air going thru the carbs.

http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/CarbCFMCalc.html

I'm not so sure those carbs would be the appropriate choise for the engine combinations you describe.

Limited by vent size really,ran these carbs on various t1 motors and they go fine but they were smaller motors,I would think the 40/44mm kadron/solex. could be made to work ....but that's not what you have

Frankly those carbs suck....lots of experience here.
If you brought them to my shop, insisting that I put those on you car, I'd pass on the job and wish you good luck.

Dual weber IDF, aftermarket EFI or stock FI, all others are a waste of time and money.

Or Ljet. Components are far cheaper and readily available. Drastically increasing the displacement and retaining what may be the FI cam isn't going help tuning issues either

1.7L

1.7 what?

1.7 Liters
That's the biggest the OP should go with his 2.0 running those carbs.

Ok. Now I get your point Chris. Unfortunately for the poster, prob another response he did'nt want to get.

I have a 1600 in my Bug with 34 ICTs, runs great

Exactly.

In my 2.0L I am running dual Dellorto DRLA 40mm and 32 vents with great success. One of the great advantages of running carbs is that eliminates so much clutter from the engine compartment, making it so much easier to work on other things.

Ansbacher

Apparently he doesn't want to spring for different carbs.

Traditionally, one would not build an engine to suit a specific set of carbs... especially ICTs. They aren't worth much and really only belong on Beetles or a MPG-oriented engine like a 1.7.

I would think if you were going through the trouble of rebuilding an engine, you'd start with your desired displacement/purpose first, then source a set of appropriate carbs for your needs. Otherwise you're leaving a lot of performance on the table.

Not trying to sound, harsh, just presenting you with the "typical" way things are approached.

...or a 2275 that spins to 3150 rpm (speculative made up number)

Sort of like saying: I already have this Type I generator bracket.... if I build up a type I, how can I fit it in a 914....

In the overall scheme of things, buying a used set of carbs is a relatively small expense when compared to the total cost of building a type-IV from the ground up.

I spent $220 to balance my rotating assembly and about $275 for a pair of used IDFs.

IIRC - someone sold a pair of good IDFs PLUS a spare for $75 (those type deals don't pop up every week though)

second thing i would do is determine what carbs, or ANY fuel delivery system, i would need for my desired engine. third would be double check everything. fourth is to proceed.

i'm leery of the as is bottom end and the displacement increase. for a stock cammed 2.0 i'd get a set of 40s, a nice linkage, a better than 009 distributor, a set of cb talls (used=1/2 price or less shipping included), some filters, low pressure rotary pump and be done with it.

See,..its a problem when ya don't know that much about this stuff, (Iam learning).But since they came on my 2.0 I thought they must have been enough to run that,So I thought well then, how large can I build,..But Mark Henry...stole all my thunder,..So now,(Thanks Mark). I know I need bigger carbs to build bigger,..which I understand,..So they were a cheap replacement for the FI system....as it would seem.. So I get to start over,....

Now,..what can I build with stk crank and rods,...and iam willing to rework what ever else I can,... to get a strong running 2.0,.most likely using bigger carbs,..or a aftermarket FI system down the road,..???? Thanks Guys,..I appreciate the help....Frank

With 96 mm pistons and cylinders, that makes it a 2056.... a well respected and fairly simple swap. Most of the time that means you can keep the stock oil cooler as well and the engine should stay pretty cool (if tuned correctly and driven appropriately). A lot of people say the 2056 is the engine that the car should have come with.

Weber 40s or Dellorto 36s put you right in the ballpark for that engine. You could run the stock FI as well, if you can source all the parts and learn how to tune it. Any bigger displacement though, and you really have to start considering carbs only.

The good news is you can probably sell the 34 ICTs on thesamba.com to one of the bus guys. They like them on their 1.7 engines!

Exactly what George (above) said.

But - decide: Carbs or FI - FIRST, then choose a cam.

That, or aftermarket FI ...

I think carbs,..kinda what that old fashioned oil and gas smell in my sports car,...could I punch up to 101 jugs or is that to much metal milled from the case,..I would love cam and valve sizes,..I am looking for torque of course but 80-100 MPH hi-way speeds...??? TIA Frank

A whole new can of worms. Too much displacement and you can forget being able to run heat exchangers. As mentioned the 2056cc engine is a relatively cost effective upgrade without reinventing the wheel. The use of 100 or plus pistons and cyls is debatatable. Some have had success, some haven't. "Learning" and asking question is what world is for. Collectively, we want you to be productive in your ownership and not spend a fortune climbing the learning curve. At times responses might seem abrupt but that's not the case. Let your thread run it's course. Process the info, and start finalizing the engine plan. We don't want you to spend a bunch of $ only to be frustrated and unhappy with your 914.

Choose a path and stick to it for now. Don't plan your engine with the thought of what you're you might do 5k miles down the road. Swapping the new carbs for fuel injection? Not smart. You'll have plenty of time to spend money further down the road.

I agree with that rhodyguy,...so,..can U give me specs for the 2056,..I know 96's,..and then what cam to use....I assume stk heads,crank and rods..?? and what size carbs will I need...Thanks,

or is there info somewhere,..???

Stock 2.0L heads rods & crank. no need to oversize valves
96mm jugs with keith black pistons (europeanmotorworks.com)
Weber 40 IDF carbs with 28mm Venturis (for steet driveability)
Tangerine racing throttle linkage
webcam 86b cam and lifters (buy them together).
Tangerine racing headers if you dont need heat.

Great,.. thanks....I guess it should obviously be balanced,...and what Comp ratio should I be at..??,..the 2056 is what,.. a 125 HP at the crank,..with pretty good torque,..Iam guessing...Thanks Frank

this was the recommended setup for running 44idfs on a 2056 with the older correct type 4 store cam for carbs, HAM heads, and using heat exchangers. venturies reduced to 32mm, 50 idle jets, 145 main jets and F11 air correction. this would be for near sea level. pick up a good used set of the cb performance tall intake manifolds. use NEW correct for head version stock phenolic spacer/gaskets under the the intakes. Triad cross bar linkage or a tangerine cable pulley linkage. 40s should work, especially if you can mimic the above recommendations.

Sweet,...Thanks....rhodyguy...Ill work on this..