iankarr
Oct 31 2015, 06:42 PM
...only surface rust! I feel like it's Christmas. The pans are in really good shape with only a little surface rust in the corners/seams.
I plan on cleaning all this up and protecting with a coat of POR-15. I've searched the site and see that people usually grind down the seam sealer, but do you need to replace it with anything? Or just a coat of
Click to view attachmentClick to view attachmentPOR-15?
Any other suggestions?
Thanks!
Click to view attachment
altitude411
Oct 31 2015, 06:46 PM
You might want to re-think the Por-15
Epoxy prime & top coat is a much better way to go IMHO.
914werke
Oct 31 2015, 06:58 PM
whitetwinturbo
Oct 31 2015, 06:59 PM
Seam sealer and Por 15 is ok.
stevegm
Oct 31 2015, 07:00 PM
Congrats. They look pretty good. When I did mine I wire-wheeled the entire area bare, including removing the seam sealer. I did not remove the round plugs, since it all looked pretty good. I then used Ospho on the whole pans, let them sit for a day or two, scuffed them, and then epoxy primer. Although some people swear by it, I am not a big fan of POR15. YMMV.
iankarr
Oct 31 2015, 09:49 PM
Thanks, guys.
Will definitely consider the epoxy primer. Is there any special prep required for the areas with surface rust? Just wire wheel? acid?
cary
Oct 31 2015, 09:58 PM
I'm not using POR 15 on my rustoration. But we did use it on the car when we initially got it going 13 years ago. Where you want use it is the only place it will hold up. It cant be exposed to UV with out a topcoat. I had a bitch of a time getting it blasted off the floor pans. When we pulled the carpets the POR 15 looked like it was brand new. The rust we covered up stayed in check. Didn't go away, but didn't get worse.
cary
Oct 31 2015, 10:12 PM
Like Steve, I'm using OSPHO on my rustoration. Here you'll get 100 different opinions. We won't know what really works for another 30 years. IMO.
Here's some of the yelling and screaming I read ..............
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/ospho-solu...val-175465.htmlI'm going with OSPHO prep and SPI epoxy.
altitude411
Oct 31 2015, 10:16 PM
^^^
OSPHO.
Nice work your doing Cary. Following your thread.
Steve. your floor pans look fantastic!
cary
Oct 31 2015, 10:34 PM
I think most of the rust you have will come off with wet OSPHO scrubbed with a red pad.
porschetub
Oct 31 2015, 11:39 PM
QUOTE(rdauenhauer @ Nov 1 2015, 01:58 PM)
Why ? I agree isn't an answer or anything for that matter,share your experience, thanks.
scotty b
Nov 1 2015, 09:30 AM
QUOTE(porschetub @ Oct 31 2015, 09:39 PM)
QUOTE(rdauenhauer @ Nov 1 2015, 01:58 PM)
Why ? I agree isn't an answer or anything for that matter,share your experience, thanks.
POR is overhyped garbage. I have seen it MULTIPLE times fail. I have personally gone behind others that have used it, and taken a broken edge and peeled it off of the panel ( a Jeep frame was the worst one I have seen, it literally came of in sheets ) I will admit, some of these were probably poor prep, but in the end, the stuff does nothing to convert, remove or otherwise treat rust. All it does is isolates it from air, to keep it from spreading.
76-914
Nov 1 2015, 10:17 AM
Yep, a paintable epoxy will excellent flow out quality.
JoeDees
Nov 1 2015, 10:24 AM
POR is great to use on the $500 Geo Metro beater car you bought to tool around town.
rhodyguy
Nov 1 2015, 11:04 AM
OSPHO or another converter called Mar-Hyde. The seem sealer removes easily with a hot air gun and a scraper. Rust likes to creep under the sealer.
BeemerSteve
Nov 1 2015, 07:20 PM
QUOTE(cuddyk @ Oct 31 2015, 04:42 PM)
...only surface rust! I feel like it's Christmas. The pans are in really good shape with only a little surface rust in the corners/seams.
I plan on cleaning all this up and protecting with a coat of POR-15. I've searched the site and see that people usually grind down the seam sealer, but do you need to replace it with anything? Or just a coat of
Click to view attachmentClick to view attachmentPOR-15?
Any other suggestions?
Thanks!
Click to view attachmentAnother product that you might consider that I'm using right now and have used on my other projects in the past is Rust Bullet. I've used por15 before but find that the RB is much harder to try and scrap off....real hard stuff. Google it.
rjames
Nov 2 2015, 11:06 AM
QUOTE(scotty b @ Nov 1 2015, 07:30 AM)
QUOTE(porschetub @ Oct 31 2015, 09:39 PM)
QUOTE(rdauenhauer @ Nov 1 2015, 01:58 PM)
Why ? I agree isn't an answer or anything for that matter,share your experience, thanks.
POR is overhyped garbage. I have seen it MULTIPLE times fail. I have personally gone behind others that have used it, and taken a broken edge and peeled it off of the panel ( a Jeep frame was the worst one I have seen, it literally came of in sheets ) I will admit, some of these were probably poor prep, but in the end, the stuff does nothing to convert, remove or otherwise treat rust. All it does is isolates it from air, to keep it from spreading.
It's all in the prep. Remove the rust/convert it, clean the area to remove any grease/oils and then por15 works as designed.
Did my floor pans and many small parts 8 years ago and they're holding up fine. Did the external rocker covers too in black since my car is black and no UV issues that I can see.
I think a lot of people don't prep correctly before using por15. It takes time to do it right.
bretth
Nov 2 2015, 11:22 AM
I never really had good results with por 15. I always followed the directions carefully but would start peeling in places or rust through later. I would remove almost all of the rust first, always seemed like it wasn't made for surfaces with only small amounts of rust (nothing to adhere to?). Did at least 2 coats with brushes but never did top coat it because i always used on the underside of my cars. I do love the metal ready and marine clean though.
Brett
mrfourteen
Nov 2 2015, 05:08 PM
por15 has poor adhesion to clean metal it likes scale.
Clean and epoxy. I use a heat gun to remove seam sealer.
Seems there is always some rust under the seam sealer.
I love the way my trunks look without it ( I doubt it'll leak with all that's on the underside)
Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please
click here.