I am going to purchase a new fuel pump to attempt to eliminate the fuel starvation issues I am having. I am looking at the rotary pump from CB Performance but they have a 3.5 psi and a 5.5 psi pump available. I think right now I have a Facet 4 psi pump. My question is if I should go ahead and move to the 5.5 psi pump if I am having problems with only 4 psi or is it more likely that the Facet is just not delivering even the 4 psi needed properly? I know Tomlinson says to go with 3.5 psi for Webers.

If you are starving for fuel, it's not pressure that will fix it, it's volume. GPH.
Webber float needles like 3-4 pounds pressure. .

Is the rotary fuel pump the best option for this? I was reading Tomlinson's description of this and he claims that the fuel pumps (like what I have) cause nothing but problems due to fluctuations in flow rates/pressure. He recommends the CB Performance one but I know he works there so is that really the best option?

I have installed dozens of CB rotary pumps over the years with no pump issues whatsoever. I still have the same CB rotary that I bought almost 15 years ago on my '66 bus. No issues either. I love them and they are quiet.

The Facet pumps (AKA- "the midget with a machine gun") also require a regulator.

BTW, are you sure you have a fuel starvation issue or is it improper jetting which can feel like a starvation issue?? I've run many hungry 2.3L motors over the years on customer cars who were running the Facet style pump without starvation problems. . .

On weber carbs you do not want more than 4lbs, ever.
Most have good luck with the rotary CB pump, some here were looking at the pierberg pump that pelican sells and the best pump is likely the Holley red pump.

If you are looking to do it 100% correct then you really need a pressure regulator in the fuel circuit. Malpassi makes a quality regulator.

Also there is a screen in the fuel tank, if this is clogged and/or if there's lot of debris (rust) in the tank you will have flow issues.

I cleaned the tank a while back and replaced the sock filter at that time. I changed my inline filter last night and it was a bit dirty but not too bad.

Everything was working fairly well up to the point of removing the carbs and pulling them apart. I did this with them still attached to the intakes and replaced the intake gaskets so the carb to intake gaskets are still intact. I didnt replace any other parts just cleaned cleaned cleaned. Everything looked fine (float gaskets, float needles, bowl vent valve, diaphragm). I also checked float levels and measured (10mm and 35 mm). The only thing that changed was that one accel pump was not working (which is why I removed them) due to the pin through throttle bar missing. I fixed that and now they both squirt fine.

Now after reassembly (several times) I still get that stumble and cant go past 4k RPM or it falls on its face. I can ease it up slowly but if I accel too hard it falls off then I have to feather it back up. I checked with carb cleaner for vacuum leaks as well. Checked timing (34 degrees). Checked plugs (looked good).

I am so lost at this point about what is going on and fuel pump is next on the list I think. I am reluctant to mess with jets bc even with accel pump not working I was good up in the 4500 RPM range past the point of accel pumps before this whole thing. Now I cant even get there. I also dont think ignition or points bc it really runs great otherwise unless my distributor is having problems with advance. Am I missing something else to check? Could bad points cause this?

Well I went ahead and ordered the rotary pump. Will pull apart dizzy and see what that looks like as well. Any other ideas are appreciated.

Your timing may be too far advanced as well. Factory spec for a 2.0 is 27 degrees.

The Holly red fuel pump is a monster. I was also starved for fuel and this fixed the problem with a regulator of course. It is loud but the biggest problem is that it will not fit under the tank and takes up space in my front trunk.

David

Timing and ignition.

Check the color of your plugs.