I have a wrecked roller with an undamaged front factory swaybar. What do I need to take off the car to go with it and what can I get new. Mine does not have the attachments for the drop link on the A arm. Can I get them new or do I need to grind them off. Do I cut out the reinforcements where they enter the body below the gas tank,or get new ones from Engman.

ccinidon'tknow

I would buy all the parts, except for the bar itself.

All that stuff is cheap.


M

mostly.

bar, lever arms, and droplinks.

Ok, where's the best place to get them? Didn't see them on the usual mail order places.

i'm in the process of installing front and rear bars on my project. i got all the front and rear bits i needed from rich at hph.

~a

pelican and gpr have the bushings, get the steel parts from Mark and keep the parts that Rich said.

Mark... do you make the u-brackets for the a-arms?

I don't remember seeing them on your roster of goodies. If not you should. It would make a nice complete package for those who want to add a bar.

with Rich, Sean and others. Get the bar, levers, conical nose bushing covers and drop links. Buy the mounts from Mark. Check the bushings, they might not be in too bad of condition. New isn't that much though...

QUOTE

Mark... do you make the u-brackets for the a-arms?

Not yet - soon though - probably be something else I will offer that no one will buy...

Seriously - it will be a couple of weeks - gonna hafta make a die to make these - spacing is too tight for anything else.

Got all the other stuff though!

M

a nice small grinder, an assortment of wire wheels, some new fuel line to replace the old stuff when you pull the tank, "should i treat the inside of the tank?", rust treatment, primer, paint, new transverse link bushings (a-arm). just kidding, that's just how i get caught up in a simple change. things to consider tho.

k

All The Usual Suspects have sway-bar mounting stuff. Weltmeister makes "U-tab" kits for the A arms, and they make bolt-in reinforcements for the fender openings with nuts welded on. The latter, I think, are sold as a kit with the outer covers for the bushings? Not sure now. They also sell a "no tank removal required" fender kit, which is a pair of U-bolts and should not be used. Ever.

Off the old car, get: The bar, the arms, the drop-links, the sway bar bushings, the bushing cover, and the bushings on the drop-links. You'll likely be tossing some of it (especially the old bushings) but they're not hard to get out while you're getting the rest of the stuff.

If you don't like the bolt-on U-tab kits or the weld-on equivalent, get the A-arms as well. They're a good bit of work to bolt up, though.

--DD

QUOTE

a nice small grinder, an assortment of wire wheels, some new fuel line to replace the old stuff when you pull the tank, "should i treat the inside of the tank?", rust treatment, primer, paint, new transverse link bushings (a-arm). just kidding, that's just how i get caught up in a simple change. things to consider tho.

Spoken like a true infectee.

(Can we get a "Donate to the DWD Fund" link at the top of the page?)

spend on some quality time in your jeep for the repeated trips to the stores for the thing you should have bought yesterday, or the day before. it's bad when you get to the point where you use the visa even for the little crap because you eat up all your cash. then you have to go to the bank machine.

k

Curt,

Below is a pic of all the parts you want to remove. Clean up the rubber bushings and appraise their condition and replace if necessary.

I would use the Pelican U-tabs and weld them on.

Keep Dahle away from the bushings.

Can someone show a picture of where the drop links attach to. I have everything on my car that is in that picture but the bottom of my drop links arent attached to anthing. They just sway back and forth.

QUOTE (jgiroux67 @ Mar 17 2005, 07:14 PM)

Can someone show a picture of where the drop links attach to. I have everything on my car that is in that picture but the bottom of my drop links arent attached to anthing. They just sway back and forth.

What do you expect, it's a sway bar!

Ha, seriously what do the drop links connect to at the bottom

They attach to "u tabs" that are attached to the top of the a arms.

QUOTE (jgiroux67 @ Mar 17 2005, 09:14 PM)

Can someone show a picture of where the drop links attach to. I have everything on my car that is in that picture but the bottom of my drop links arent attached to anthing. They just sway back and forth.

not a stock bar, but you get the idea

Thank you, that helps out alot!
Did 73 2.0l come with u-tabs already on the a-arms?

Only the ones that had swaybars.

Mine's a 1970 with no sway-bar, but it had the U-tabs on the arms. I've heard of a quite a few other non sway-bar equipped cars with the U-tabs. Seems the only real way to determine if they're on there is to look

David

Sorry Dave-O, it was my feeble attempt at humor.

My '74 had the tabs and no bar.
I attatched the SRP bar to the tabs but Rich Walton helped me at Marina last year use the supplied drop link mounts.

KT

Crap, I just checked and turns out that there is no tabs on the A-arms but for some reason it still has all the other factory sway bar stuff.
So whats the best way to put the u-tabs on? Make and weld some on or buy the kit that appears to bolt on?

QUOTE (jgiroux67 @ Mar 17 2005, 11:58 PM)

Crap, I just checked and turns out that there is no tabs on the A-arms but for some reason it still has all the other factory sway bar stuff.

aha. well - either some PO decided to add a factory bar and got as far as you did, or some PO hit a curb or two and bent some A-Arms...

i bought a pair of weld-on parts from SRP, but for some reason i'm thinking they use an alternate mounting arrangement that does not use the tabs anyway (maybe i'm thinking about the back ...)

EngMan was talking about having a set of tabs on his 'to-do' list.

personally - i would *not* use the bolt-on mounts, even if Pelican Wayne (whose company sells such things...) illustrates their use. it's just wrong on so many levels ...

or - do what we'd all do: just buy new A-Arms with the tabs already installed, replace the bushings with Mueller or Elephant bearings, clean and powder-coat the A-Arms, and replace the balls joints. Ta-Da - a $1000 solution to a $20 problem !

no. it's only around $800 after all the dust settles. but that's being lucky to have a friend with all the old parts you need

k

QUOTE (vsg914 @ Mar 17 2005, 10:44 PM)

Sorry Dave-O, it was my feeble attempt at humor.

No worries! I got the joke, i just thought he should know that he might have the tabs even without the bar. But it looks like a no-go.


TIME!!!

Finally got the time this morning to remove the bar from "crash". got everything unbolted on one side, arm and drop ling are removed, but the plate and rubber bushing doesn't want to slide out over the square end of the bar. Any tricks here, or do we destroy them? If so, how do ya get the new ones in without damage?

Got it out. Took a litle coaxing, but it came out. Still not sure how to install the new ones without screwing them up, but I'll figure it out!