when people say a sbc can be reved to 6500 or some other number, do they mean it can be run for 15-30 mins at that rpm or do they mean that it can be screamed to that number and then promptly shifted??

Depends on how you build it. Get a Traco engine and it'll run all day at 7grand. Another friend had a 25k Rehrer-Morrison smallblock that'd rev to 14g but not for too long. Big bucks go a long way in building a revvy Chev engine but you probably don't need that. I've seen some impressive numbers and rev ability from the 4.3 v-6 too - look some of them up and see if it's what you want. They even sound kinda cool!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gGT_qP14Hig

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RkJ3fd9_k5g



http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/whatisoilanalysis.htm
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_small-block_engine
http://www.permatex.com/products/product-categories
http://www.chevydiy.com/chevy-small-block-...nd-valvetrains/

Large stationary gensets and power transmission lube systems are analyzed regularly on a schedule as a preventive measure.
The oil,when warmed,will flow through a fine filter cloth which will capture various large metallic particles.
The microscopic ones will pass through,mostly.The large chunks are in the bottom of the pan.
Mustn't leave those there,to be picked up and pumped by the fresh oil.
While the pan is dropped for cleaning,have a look at the bottoms of each bore for signs of scoring.
Peek into the cylinder at BDC with your borescope so a picture of all 8 bores are a known condition.
Inspect the cam's lobes,from the valley top,keeping the order of the lifters and pushrods maintained(wear pattern matching).
A dissasembly and cleaning of the pushrods and lifters is a detail sometimes left out.
While the tallblock is half naked,a thorough solvent wash to clean the sludge off will allow the fresh oil to be fresh.
A big question at this point is the condition of the cam chain,have a look up and search for slack.
Roll the crank slightly to observe,and if it's acceptable you won't have to drop the drivetrain.
Detail oriented motivation would have several main and rod plastigage clearances checked at this point,along with the oil pump's.
The results of the top end leakdown tests will tell the wear condition of the valves and rings.
Marginal upstairs means the same below,it is now the time to decide if a new set of bottom bearings should be installed in situ.
If so,plastigage each one,being very careful not to shave any of the shells,nick any journals,working in a spotless method,super cleanly.
Use brake cleaner spray to wash the parts,assembly lube on the shells.Measure(mike with correct anvils) every one that came out and compare to what you put in.
These modern bearings sure beat the hell out of poured babbit,so convenient.
One at a time,do not mix up the nuts and bolts,all the caps go on the same way,mark them first.
Have a look at the crank seals for signs of leakage,the front important because the replacement means an engine drop.
After you button it up,make a plan to heat the new oil and prime the system while rolling the crank 720*.
Make #1 TDC on compression,plant the distributor and set initial,crank without spark,looking for oil pressure,add spark and start.
Because you have ensured the carb is in top shape,it should fire inside 7 secs.
Listen intently for strange noises like bearings squealing or pistons hammering.
Set the idle screw,set the timing on the light,allow to come to temp,set idle again,watching the oil pressure.
Take it to 2K and back to idle,stepping up in 500 rpm steps,repeat to 500 below redline.
Allow to cool,restart and step up again,and if all is well,go for a drive,oil pressure noting.
Tune for winter and summer,noting the new oil consumption,sniff the tailpipe at the dyno shop.
Running a high performance engine,a constant r+r of the wear surfaces makes for cheap fun power.

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From what I can see,those rollercam 350s in Newcastle should slip right in,the intake bolt pattern might be different though.
Two bolts on each side in the center.Have a look at yours and those with pix.Note the numbers of all the blocks and heads.
Run that past Renegade,they have solutions.I'm not sure about your waterpump mounts.

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If you upgrade the oil system. Probably need a deep sump, I believe there are dry sump conversions too. My dad used to have a southwest tour race car with a chevy 350 he built it. 350's are used for racing all over.

If you spend any money, buy an LS1! Save weight and gain power. If you really want to you can put a carburetor on them to, to keep the simplicity.

Got just the motor to replace yours.

May require some metal fab.

Nothing like doubling up