Im trying to swap the rear hubs from the Banana to the German 8 tor and I bent a pipe on a breaker bar trying to get this thing off.

Um.. I used 8 feet of breaker bar, a 1/2 in thick thing to hold the rotor in place. lots of lube, and a thick mat over top incase something went springing everywhere (did a couple of times)
That was one of my loose trailing arms.
Its 350lb from the factory if I remember right...

If you have it on the car, put the wheels on, drop the car on the ground, put it in gear, put on the ebrake, and use a breaker bar with a 3 ft extension...

Ya, Its a pain, just did it...

If at spec...it would have been torqued down to somewhere in the 230-250ftlb range.

What size is it? I had to use one of my 3/4 drive us sockets and it had a little slop. I dont want to mess up the threads or the nut.

the spec book says 30-35 M-Kg (~200-230 lbs-ft) the spec you see most often is 220 lbs-ft.

this is a real good place to use PB BLaster, heat, and a 1/2" impact wrench. they do have a tendency to get put on or otherwise become real tight. i use a 4' pipe on my 3/4" drive flex handle if they don't yield nicely to the impact wrench...

QUOTE (spare time toys @ Mar 20 2005, 04:14 PM)

What size is it?

IIRC, 30mm.

1-3/16" is probably the closest US size that will fit.

yea, I used a 6 foot piece of fence topping pipe, with the car on the ground, wheel on, in reverse, park brake on, and I still managed to move the car two inches before it broke--real bitch

Thats what impact guns are for. By far the best tool investment I've ever made, Ingersal Rand Ti 1000lbs nut buster.

I bought a 6-point socket. I did not care if it was ½” or ¾” drive because I wasn’t going to us a breaker bar. I used a 24” pipe wrench on the socket and slipped a 6’ piece of pipe on it. I wedged a crow bar through the studs to hold the wheel from turning. It worked.

Just removed the ones on my Vanagon rear axle at a HONKING 363 ft-lbs of torque (retorque value per the book). Wouldn't use my T-bar as it bends at lesser torques, the air gun wouldn't touch it and the 4 foot long pipe wrench didn't do squat either.


Went to Auto Zone, bought an english equivalent of a 43mm(?) 3/4 socket for $16 and a 3/4 big ass ratchet for $25, and a can of PB blaster.

Sprayed the nuts with PB blaster, tapped on them for a few minutes, and they spun right off after 19 years of never being removed. No pipe required.

Have had worse on a beetle. Wrench, 6 ft length of pipe and Ken the 200 pound weight jumping up and down on the end of the pipe.

Ken

I can't remember exactly how I removed them when I did it last year, but I didn't use an impact wrench. I think I did it like I used to do to my "bug"; very large double box- end wrench and standing on the end of the wrench. I weigh a "bit" over 300 lbs! The car was on the ground with the e-brake on and maybe in gear; worked to loosen and later to tighten those nuts back on. I have since, purchased an impact wrench but have only used it to remove a steering wheel from an extra steering column which had already been removed from a car!

Ron

best method if you don't want a rigorous workout...

PB Catalyst and heat. the "hotwrench" method works best (as mentioned earlier).

300 ft lb impact wrench is what i used....

I have a 3/4 inch impact from MAC tools that has never let me down. I have not found one nut it could not remove yet. Ask Matt about it, it rocks.

Put the wheel back on....lower the car to the ground.....hopefully a motor and trans is still in it....

Set a breaker bar 3/4 inch.... and a 1-2 inch extension on the socket....get a nice 3 foot pipe, slip it over the end of the bar at 9 o'clock and jump on it....that'll do it.....


No engine or trans in the car? You will have to do some creative bracing to keep the hub from turning......

Oh yeah...make sure the cotter pin has been removed.....

When I did my 5-lug conv I used a 3/4" ratchet with a 4 foot bar and broke the ratchet at the base of the socket. The Sears guy didn't even ask me anything and just gave me a new one. Anyway, I didn't own a compressor at the time so I drove down to the local Firestone and asked the guy how much to have someone loosen it with an impact gun? He said he'd do it for free so while he did I got him a Coke from the machine. Then the next time I needed work on the daily driver I took it to him too. Later on this same shop put some needed welds on a set of heat exchangers too (this time for a very small fee). Finally, make sure you use a new cotter pin and put some anti-seize on the threads. Oh, and put your new rear wheel bearings in the freezer. They'll slip right in like butter. Good luck!

Put a Jos Gorbab CD in and crank it up to 10. The nut will back right off by itself and roll down the street.

Paul

QUOTE (URY914 @ Mar 21 2005, 06:33 AM)

Put a Jos Gorbab CD in and crank it up to 10. The nut will back right off by itself and roll down the street. Paul

ROFLMAO!!!!!!!

QUOTE (aircooledboy @ Mar 21 2005, 12:48 PM)

QUOTE (URY914 @ Mar 21 2005, 06:33 AM) Put a Jos Gorbab CD in and crank it up to 10. The nut will back right off by itself and roll down the street. Paul ROFLMAO!!!!!!!

So....were you able to crack it loose?

Not yet I ran ran out of week end. I got it soaked down with PB and have the blue tip wrench to help warm things up a bit. So come Sat AM