So I have been looking to buy a new project fun car, and found a really cool project (280z).

The problem is the car is a color that I dislike.



In reaching out to many shops in the bay area for a color change ( windows out, but no engine compartment), the cheapest price I have found is $7,000!

I plan to pull everything off the car ( but the glass) before going to the shop.

Note: This car is rust free and has no body damage ( original owner since new, and the paint still looks good).

Any connections out there for driver quality paint work at 5 grand or below?

Once shop quoted me $12k!


Thanks for the collective advice,

Matt

That's a toughie. Do a wrap?

That $7-112k sounds about the going rate for here in OC/SoCal from a quality shop for a color change - which then adds more spots to repaint (door jambs, trunk or hatch edges in this case, engine bay, etc.) - unless you do a crappy MAACO or 1 Day or Earl Scheib type half-fast paint job.

If you do a color change, I recco you stick with their factory color, but then again, it may also have another more likable color under the yellow, if a PO did a color change.

The cheapest route may be to pay for therapy to help you get used to yellow!

Good Luck!
Tom
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What's wrong with yellow/

I am certainly considering it.

Somehow I think the combination of CA environmental expenses, Bay Area cost of living and fear of an old car is upping the cost.

Maybe tow it down to LA or out of state to save a 2-3 grand.

Yellow is for cabs and school bus paint jobs......

I know lots of the people that feel the same about red.

1st, and most important: Remove the glass.

Next: $5k is the going rate in FL for a solid paint job, so $7k in NorCal would probably get you the same.

Any color change is very expensive. If you cheap out on a color change, you will very seriously devalue your car.

Submarines too.

with Joe. I would imagine cost of materials and the added CA regulations are where the premium comes from in California. No VOC paints anymore, correct? Might *even* be worth trailering the car out of state to get it painted and you'll also be able to go with a non-water-based paint. Last I heard CA had/was moving to all water-based-paints, which despite the good things I've heard, are fairly new.

Better call Maaco! Of Earl Shibe

$7k sounds reasonable. You should pull the motor too and interior. Actually Miracle in Pleasanton does lots of muscle cars and quality work. They quoted me $3500 a couple years ago for the 914. I pull all the glass (strip the car) and they would put a less than show quality job on the car. Show quality can run big $$$ depending on your needs.

Personally, Luv the yellow...finding another car in a color you like is cheaper.

Go beyond the Bay Area. In Santa Cruz its cheaper, and you can do single stage like the original.

Santa Cruz cheaper, doubt that. Maybe Watson or Salinas…

If you don't like that color, find another car. You better love it b/c you won't see half your money back unless Z cars start getting crazy money.

Not sure how much you know about these cars, but judging by the hood, that's a 77 or 78. In which case it may be a Zap Z. Between the Zap Z and the Black Pearl, they are the only limited edition models Datsun made in the first generation. Very conceivable that the stripes have been taken off in almost 40 years since new. These stripes have been reproduced and are available. Other tell-tale signs of Zap Z or Black Pearl models are a matching passenger side mirror and rear louvre red sun shade.

If there's a chance this is a Zap Z, don't change the color!

Sounds like it is time for a road trip....that is outrageous for any paint job.

Personally, I would bring the paint back to its best possible condition and drive it for awhile. You may learn to like it. I hated the color of my current 914 until my cousin and I spent an afternoon polishing and waxing it. After we were done, I loved it. It still needs a paint job, but I am staying with Laguna Blau.

It takes at least 100 hours start to finish for a single man assuming little bodywork for a shop quality job. Then you have about 1500 in materials/consumables for decent stuff and 600-1k for cheap stuff. So ya.

Mayco will do a decent job for around 3k, but you have to talk to them in detail about it an agree to extra layers of base and clear, having their expert painter spray it, and for them to do a coat of primer before hand and finish it with a good cut and buff.


Ive had requests to paint cars but being to busy to take on any job like that I always just reccomend going to Mayco.

7K? Pffft I paid that for non-color change in the bay area 20 years ago... I just got a quote from a shop for body work on a reasonable clean six (already completly stripped and no re-assembly) He wanted 25K before paint.

Did that price include pulling off the ugly 70s side molding and filing in the holes that are no doubt running down each side.

I have passed on many a car because of aftermarket 70s side molding.

Thanks for the replies all! Details on the car:

1975 and the original color was a gold color. (So a color change is no big deal)

What's cool about the car is a JDM RB25DET fresh rebuild with forged internals. (445hp on low boost 91 pump gas tune)

Interior is pristine and body in excellent shape.

Obviously im not concerned about originality. The vents in the hood are aftermarket for heat control and a vent for the wastegate.

Prices quote did not include any hole filling for side molding removal.

Nothing in the Bay Area is cheap - so get out - Stockton is the most depressed area around here - take a drive out there. I believe you'll get better quotes if you show up then call. Then you can offer cash because you are real and not somebody fishing. I found a guy that I'll go back to when I decide to do myself - he's in Concord.

I'd also advise to carry some cash as he may have an opening and give you a better # if you dropped car right there & then, maybe have a ride set up.

Saw a colored chrome wrap the other day (Panamera), about the f'n coolest look I've seen on a car, not for everyone or any car but my GT fendered 914 may get the treatment. For a driver to putz in, maybe Maaco is the way to go.

I do like those wheels tho, I had a set on my hot rod Corvair of 1980. Great large fans for cooling of my drum brakes...

I live in the North Bay..... buddy of mine had his 240z painted at a local Maaco, 2 stage. I couldnt believe how good it turned out.

He claims the key was a $2k prep, followed by a $2k paint job.

Looks good 7 years later...... but I know nothing about paint. Just know what I see....

Good luck

Ps..... the $2k prep was NOT done at Maaco. That was the key

So, was this car gold, then yellow, and now you're going to paint it a third color?

Hmmmmm….

I'd paint it back to gold and ditch the side molding. Either that, or leave it, and drive it.

I paid $500 for my '73 in 1980. Appraised at about $20K now. That crazy enough for you?

I'd remove the side moldings, polish and drive. Gives you a chance to enjoy the car and think about it while you tinker without having to worry about it. Or... go back with the factory color done correctly by a GOOD painter. IMHO Price is always a concern but second to quality. Or... sell the car to me. I love those 280s. Great looking, vintage.

What ever you decide, congratulations on the find and good luck with it!

Joe

Too bad they ruined it with that engine swap. (did I just post that?)

really, those cars are going to rocket in value to the moon some day. They have always been under valued. The early Z cars have such classic lines. The negative is the cheap dissolving interiors and rust. You think 914's rust...

^^ Your not one against engine swaps ^^

In my opinion its better than a chevy V8 swap which is so common on these cars.

Kinda looks at home and cleaner than the original: ( Actually the engine is the same color as the original car color)



240's are going up, but 280s don't seem to have much value.

I've heard of some good deals in Lodi and modesto areas. I was told a long time ago to use Loretto Paint in Atwater, but use at your own risk. I can't remember where I got that contact from.

I had mine done by Gary @ G'z Custom Auto Body in Ukiah Ca. 707 272 9286 leave a message as he seldom answers the phone and never before 10:00 am. His overhead is low as he lives at the shop just out of town (a sort of hole in the wall and a bit of an oddball though a great guy after you get to know him) Probably a good three hours north of you just off Hwy 101. He works alone and I thought he did a great job at a very fair price. My car was kinda unusual plus had some light body work and rust repairs done as well so not sure what it might cost but mine was less than what you're talking about. And he has a custom Z!

OK, I'll paint it for you. Should only take 3 cases of Krylon to cover it pretty well.

Head east, or south to Mexico.

I recall that MikeZ and a few others brought cars to a place in Mexico that was really cheap and did pretty decent work.

Rich

When I got my 74 2.0 it had 24 holes due to the riveted side moldings and aftermarket mirrors. The paint was original signal orange but it had been touched up with a rattle can along the way. I stripped everything from the interior as well as glass, trim, bumpers, etc. got an estimate from Maaco of North Highlands for $3k to weld all all of the holes and paint with single stage in matching color. I had the car towed to the shop.

I visited the shop almost every day for a few minutes to check on progress. I also brought doughnuts at break time and met some of the staff. They assigned one body man to my car who explained in detail everything he was doing. He introduced me to the painter who had been there for 18 years. He put down a white primer sealer then 5 qts of Sherwin Williams paint.

I got the car home and let it cure. Overall it looked much better than I expected but there were some specs, fish eyes and orange peel. While this started out as a "nice driver" project, my OCD took over and I color sanded the entire car. I then followed with Griot's products to make it pop.

People who have seen it can't believe that it's a Maaco paint job. North Highlands Maaco is in a suburb north of Sacramento. No, I don't work there. Maaco is capable of very good work. You just need to engage the crew without being in the way and let them know that you really care about the outcome.

One more thought. Do as much masking on the engine and trunks as you can. It's much easier than cleaning overspray after the fact.

First off, very cool car, I'm sure yours is nicer than most, but appraisals are almost always a bit overinflated, but I don't disagree about their values going up especially the 240. One of the "cool" cars growing up for me, think about your generation and what you and your buddies thought were cool in grade & middle school. These cars will start to get snatched up by that group when $$$ becomes more disposable (40-50+). Already see it with mid 70s cars like our 914s.

Back on topic, that color doesn't bother, but either does a color change, as for gold?

A quality wrap is going to set you back a couple of grand, should probably explore paint for that cost, unless you attempt yourself (still about a grand for a cars worth of quality vinyl).

Please keep updating, I've got my eye on a couple of 240zs and am falling even more in love with them bu the day.

&k for a paint job! That is probably more than you paid for the car. Unless you plan on keeping it forever, you will never recoup your cost.

L28? 0-60 in 14.2 seconds...lol

I don't think I have ever owned a factory stock classic car ever. The after market just makes them so much more fun....oh well will never be a purist.

Mines not stock either. L28et block with E32 head reworked for fuel injection. 11:1 CR. 3 liter Rebello stroker motor.

click click click click click click click click click click click click click click click click click click click click click click click click click click click click click click click click

I had a 260z back in college, fun car . What about plasti dip your whole car?

Outside Bay Area is definitely cheaper. I spent a whole summer in college doing body work and paint prep on one of my buddies car, had easily over 100 hours into it. He eventually sold the car for $1500 dollars. Still can't get that time back.

CA has banned gallons of plasta dip. It's no longer an easy option. I have a friend that we did it to his car. We applied in a warehouse where dust contaminated the layers....flat surfaces were textured like sand paper.

Maybe I should just sticker bomb the car and join the hella flush movement.

My brother lives in Vegas we touch base a few times a year just sayin.

I have found plastidip to not really be a long lasting solution. Since the paint is rough and textured seems a little difficult to clean and it fades out in a couple years. It does work well for a base filler layer I found, but coverage sucks. I used it to put a couple base layers on a camper shell and then covered it with regular paint, seems to be holding up well. and the regular paint is much more smooth and glossy.

Rattle can it white and get 20 people and 3 packs of sharpies then clear it afterwards

I just got an estimate for a repaint of same color, a couple of door skin rust repairs on my '75 Anacona blue metallic with trim and light removal and replacement, engine pulled for front and rear trunk and engine bay repaint included. Not a full car tear down though. $11.5K. Still way more than I want to pay