For about 5 years I was the only tech in the shop that did suspension work and so I did all the Turbo Tie rod installs, 911 and 914. We only had 5 techs but almost all our work Porsche and we did a lot of suspension set-up.

I never installed a set without the large washer, it is a nice flat stop for the rack and keeps the tie rod end from chewing up the aluminum end of the rack housing.

I never had a car the did not have enough adjustment range to align after installation.

That said, there is probably no harm in assembling without the washer. The inner tie rod end would take a long time to do any damage to the rack and there is ample adjustment range on the outer tie rod end to set the alignment.

Jim

I think it is the context and communication of "which " end of the tie rod is being referenced.

But when you posted this thread, I assumed you had done the work.

So......somebody else told you that the threads were not an issue and then you assumed he was talking about the other end where the tie rod bolts to the strut.

Am I right?

So did you post to see if it was done right or if you could have handled it?

I always like learning something new and was hoping you could shed some light that possibly on the earlier cars the rack lengths were different as I know the struts are.

Well...there you go.

Thanks!

Jim, thanks for the info. Definitely makes sense. And happy to hear someone else confirm that the washer isn't necessary, but likely a better option to use.

When I measured the old rod next to the new rod with the washer placed at the end, my new rod end was pretty much bottomed out. That's why I figured I should probably leave the washer off and just bolt directly to the rack. Who knows' I'm probably missing something. You've definitely got more experience than I do.

914_teener. No, we're definitely confusing things through the interwebs. I had already done the install about a month ago when I posted originally.

My car is stored about an hour from me so it's not a simple as go to the garage and check. So at first I was going off memory. I finally got the chance to go work on the car and stopped off at my parts guy and asked about the washer, which is where I got his .02 cents. Then after confirming on my car that I did install correctly(supposedly) sans washers at the end of the rod that attaches to the rack, I posted up here again. I could be wrong, I probably am, but I'm just trying to figure this stuff out as I go along. Who knows, I'll probably be still pulling the rod off again soon after a few more posts in here.

It.s all good. I measured the thread lengths as well....and also discovered the same.An an engineer I was somewhat troubled as to why everyone had put washer there and sent out a distress post when installing them. Then after looking at heim joint end notioned the same that it offered a better landing surface to compress angainst and any loss of this through vibration and constant cycling back and forth was better.

Didn.t want it coming loose!

Thanks guys .....!

Wow . . . you'd think after starting this thread I would be paying more attention Sorry.

Anyways, there are really good thoughts here--they'll be a big help as I go forward on the install (I'll take pictures once I get started/once I get my car back).

One thing I've already noticed is that is that there is a key difference between the turbo tie rod sets shown in this thread and the ones I received--mine didn't have castellated nuts, cotter pins, or holes for pins on the tie rod ends. Instead, my set came with two (!) "pinched" type of lock nuts similar to those used on our old Volvos (and I've never had a problem with any of those). They're just different than what's been shown here (or what I was expecting) . . . .

Here's a picture of the two rod assemblies (one still in the bag, as shipped):

Click to view attachment

And a close-up of the locking nuts:

Click to view attachment

There are two nuts in each bag, one "gold" (on the left), the other "silver" (right). The gold one came threaded onto the tie rod end, outside the plastic protective cap. It looks like the gold one (left) seems to be slightly more "pinched" than the other one.

Here's another close-up picture from a different angle:

Click to view attachment

The gold one (left) has a different profile, kind of a flattened cone; the right one has a raised knurled section. FWIW, either/both fit on the threaded end of the outer tie rod, but because the gold one was the one that was shipped in the installed position, that's the one I'm planning to use in my install . . . but what the heck is the other nut for? Any ideas? I hate having left-over parts

As always, thanks in advance for the advice, BTDTs, etc.

Steve A-

I would guess the difference in nuts and lack of hole for a cotter pin is that these are outer tie rod ends are spec'd by Lemforder for another vehicle. Lemforder make parts for multiple car/makes and these are probably the except for the type of lock nut. To meet some manufacturer design they have used pinch type lock nut rather than cotter pins. The 2 different nut are likely variations thet the were called out in the design at different times and they just include both so the meet the"OE Original" specs.

Some will tell you that these "don't meet Porsche's design" and there for you should not use them but in the real world there is no functional difference.

Jim