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Gearup
Gents,
Flared car running 16 X 8 245 rear tires. Don't know if this is a factor in the responses here. I have been told that I should not run a rear sway bar. Street use car but want it to handle the best in can in the Rocky Mtn. Curvey roads evilgrin.gif suggestion and/or inputs. Thanks. Brett
SirAndy
QUOTE(Gearup @ May 27 2016, 11:51 AM) *
Flared car running 16 X 8 245 rear tires. Don't know if this is a factor in the responses here. I have been told that I should not run a rear sway bar. Street use car but want it to handle the best in can in the Rocky Mtn. Curvey roads evilgrin.gif suggestion and/or inputs. Thanks. Brett

The "no rear bar" applies mostly to autocross for cars that do not have a limited slip differential. It's pretty much a non issue on the big track or street.

For a street car, a rear bar does help to settle the car on curvy roads.


Again, it really only matters if:

- You regularly try to navigate really tight (2nd gear) corners as fast as possible and you:
---- Have enough power to spin the wheels coming out of the corner in 2nd gear
---- Don't have a limited slip differential

A rear bar will tend to lift the inner wheel in the scenario above resulting in a spinning tire instead of going forward.

driving.gif
SirAndy
PS:

The video below shows my car WITH a rear bar and plenty of power to spin the wheels. If you listen closely, you can hear me spinning the tires when exiting tight corners.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=285658

Instead of disconnecting the rear bar, i'm saving money to buy a limited slip ...
biggrin.gif

pete000
I like the way my 74 handles with factory front and rear bars for street use. I really turns flat. I have heard in autocross or some track conditions the rear bar and cause loss of grip to the rear tires in the tight turns.

Easy enough to pop a drop link for those situations.
Alphaogre
I run the adjustable front swaybar and the adjustable HD Bilstein shocks in the rear with stiff springs. It seems to be the preferable "Hybrid" set up for aggressive not aggressive driving. When I was doing research on my set up.

I AX and drive on the road with fervor, its stiff but not back breaking while I drive on overpriced shitty CA roads.

You can run a small damper spring on a dual C/O set up and it will give you some cush, then pack out and rest on the lager spring for the cornering when you get on it.

Just another option.

Click to view attachment
colingreene
Thats not how helper springs are supposed to be used AT ALL
nor will it do what you are saying it is.
Larmo63
agree.gif
Alphaogre
Really? That's all I have ever heard them used for. confused24.gif It's a good thing I never got them then. biggrin.gif

I know both coils are working all the time, but you would think the softer one would dampen more on the smaller "typical" road bumps, while the larger one would do more the job as if you were only running one coil.
76-914
QUOTE(SirAndy @ May 27 2016, 12:08 PM) *

QUOTE(Gearup @ May 27 2016, 11:51 AM) *
Flared car running 16 X 8 245 rear tires. Don't know if this is a factor in the responses here. I have been told that I should not run a rear sway bar. Street use car but want it to handle the best in can in the Rocky Mtn. Curvey roads evilgrin.gif suggestion and/or inputs. Thanks. Brett

The "no rear bar" applies mostly to autocross for cars that do not have a limited slip differential. It's pretty much a non issue on the big track or street.

For a street car, a rear bar does help to settle the car on curvy roads.


Again, it really only matters if:

- You regularly try to navigate really tight (2nd gear) corners as fast as possible and you:
---- Have enough power to spin the wheels coming out of the corner in 2nd gear
---- Don't have a limited slip differential

A rear bar will tend to lift the inner wheel in the scenario above resulting in a spinning tire instead of going forward.

driving.gif

That's the best explanation I've read yet. Thanks. Now I have the facts and won't be parroting in the future. beerchug.gif
Gearup
I'm running ground control coilovers with 175 lb springs. The car had a 19mm sway bar in the rear when I got it and it was mounted with a bolt through the rear trailing arms. Was not sure if that is considered a viable way to mount it. I figured for an aggressive street car with the GC coilovers, heavier springs and more rubber in the rear would be fine?
Geezer914
What springs are you running in the rear? Stock, use a rear sway bar. 140# plus springs, no nee for a sway bar.
Gearup
QUOTE(Geezer914 @ May 28 2016, 08:36 AM) *

What springs are you running in the rear? Stock, use a rear sway bar. 140# plus springs, no nee for a sway bar.


I'm running Ground Control rear coilovers with 175 lb springs. I was running 200 lb. springs before the conversion but thought 175 lb springs would be better and more comfortable for street use.
914_teener
QUOTE(SirAndy @ May 27 2016, 12:08 PM) *

QUOTE(Gearup @ May 27 2016, 11:51 AM) *
Flared car running 16 X 8 245 rear tires. Don't know if this is a factor in the responses here. I have been told that I should not run a rear sway bar. Street use car but want it to handle the best in can in the Rocky Mtn. Curvey roads evilgrin.gif suggestion and/or inputs. Thanks. Brett

The "no rear bar" applies mostly to autocross for cars that do not have a limited slip differential. It's pretty much a non issue on the big track or street.

For a street car, a rear bar does help to settle the car on curvy roads.


Again, it really only matters if:

- You regularly try to navigate really tight (2nd gear) corners as fast as possible and you:
---- Have enough power to spin the wheels coming out of the corner in 2nd gear
---- Don't have a limited slip differential

A rear bar will tend to lift the inner wheel in the scenario above resulting in a spinning tire instead of going forward.

driving.gif



agree.gif

And ........you have the power to actually spin the tires.

So much depends on how the car is set up.

Do you think your spring rates are matched? Think you said you were running a 19 mm front bar with stock torsion bar?


Gearup
QUOTE(914_teener @ May 29 2016, 09:16 AM) *

QUOTE(SirAndy @ May 27 2016, 12:08 PM) *

QUOTE(Gearup @ May 27 2016, 11:51 AM) *
Flared car running 16 X 8 245 rear tires. Don't know if this is a factor in the responses here. I have been told that I should not run a rear sway bar. Street use car but want it to handle the best in can in the Rocky Mtn. Curvey roads evilgrin.gif suggestion and/or inputs. Thanks. Brett

The "no rear bar" applies mostly to autocross for cars that do not have a limited slip differential. It's pretty much a non issue on the big track or street.

For a street car, a rear bar does help to settle the car on curvy roads.


Again, it really only matters if:

- You regularly try to navigate really tight (2nd gear) corners as fast as possible and you:
---- Have enough power to spin the wheels coming out of the corner in 2nd gear
---- Don't have a limited slip differential

A rear bar will tend to lift the inner wheel in the scenario above resulting in a spinning tire instead of going forward.

driving.gif



agree.gif

And ........you have the power to actually spin the tires.

So much depends on how the car is set up.

Do you think your spring rates are matched? Think you said you were running a 19 mm front bar with stock torsion bar?


I have a 283 with about 320 hp. On the front I have 911 SC struts and new Bilstein inserts with Rich Johnsons Boxster brake setup. Stock A Arms and torsion bars. Also using a aftermarket 19mm front sway bar.
Gearup
I have put a lot of money in new parts and am nervous about having my car have anything that would detract from it being considered "well done". That being said, I will probably be using the car as a weekend seasonal driver, but want a potential buyer in he future to know that overall the car is a nicely done conversion. It's amazing how many cars that are converted have a few poorly done aspects that hugely affect the selling price.
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