Ok, I'm very glad that you did this test. First, we must rule out the simple, do you have fuel? What is the fuel pressure at the fuel rail?

A few tests ago you measured 12 volts from pins 14,15,32 and 33 to battery ground. This test proves that you have continuity from the ECU connector thru the wiring harness, the fuel injector itself has continuity, the wiring harness to the dropping resistors has continuity, and finally, the harness to the dual relay has continuity. All of this is a very good thing.

Even though each fuel injector show's continuity, this does not prove that they will work. Mechanically, these injectors could be seized or plugged full of . Let's do one more test just to prove that these injectors are working electrically.

These injectors are low impedance, I'm pretty sure they are around 2.5 ohms (correct me if I'm wrong). You also have a 6 ohm dropping resistor in series of each fuel injector (resistor pack). Using a simple equation I=E/R, we can solve for current on each injector circuit. Total resistance is around 8.5 ohms, voltage is 13, so we should see something around 1.5 amps.

Many meters will measure amperage's for DC circuits. The meter will usually have something that will say DC A, and they typically measure up to 10 amps. Make sure you don't have your meter set to DC milliamps, as this will blow the meter's internal fuse. Make sure the red meter lead is plugged into the correct port on the meter, DC amp setting usually has its own port.

Now, same test as before. Remove the power wire from the ignition coil, set the ignition switch to on, temporarily deflect the air flow meter flap or jump pin 88d at the dual relay to the positive battery post. Next, insert the red meter lead into socket 14 of the ECU connector, while the black meter lead is touching the negative battery post. You should hear a click at the fuel injector, should also see fuel spraying too. As all of this is going on, observe what your meter is saying, should be somewhere of 1.5 amps.

Repeat this for pins 15, 32 and 33.

If you are seeing 1.5 amps at each injector, and you have verified fuel pressure at the fuel rail, then you send off your injectors to WitchHunters for cleaning.

Cool, not sure what your issue was with the previous test. Button the injectors back up and verify you still have spark. Try starting the car

The ECU uses the spark signal to fire the injectors. When doing the previous tests, I had you remove the power wire off the ignition coil. This was done to protect either your ignition points or your pointless module. It's bad to leave the ignition on with the car not running, as it will ruin the points.

We need to address your no spark condition. Do you have mechanical points inside the distributor or is it a electronic module?

Verify you do have 12 volts present at the positive terminal of the ignition coil when the ignition switch is set to on. Measure this by probing the + terminal of the ignition coil and probing the negative battery post

Remove the distributor cap and rotor, and manually spring open the points while trying to take a picture. Post the picture if you can, I'm wondering if the points are burnt

Yah, time to replace them.

On the ignition coil, you should have 3 wires on the negative terminal and one wire on the positive terminal. After confirming that, remove all wires from the ignition coil and check the resistance between the positive and negative terminal of the ignition coil. Next, leave one meter lead probed to the negative terminal and probe the other meter lead to the spark plug socket of the ignition coil.

Just to make sure, did you pull all the wires off before testing? Positive to negative terminals should be around 4 ohms. Spark plug terminal to either terminal should be around 10,000 ohms.

After checking the ground strap, take your voltmeter and check the resistance between the negative battery post and the thing I have circled in red, you should have 0 ohms

Click to view attachment

Reattach wires to the ignition coil. Turn the engine so that the ignition points are in the closed position. Check the resistance from the negative terminal of the ignition coil to the negative battery post. You should again see 0 ohms.



If you see 0 ohms, switch the meter to measure DC volts. Briefly turn the key to on and measure the voltage between the + and - terminals of the ignition coil. You should see 12 volts. Turn off the ignition as soon as you get your measurement.

Silly question, but are the points in the closed position (touching each other) when you measured?

Yes. Now check the resistance between the negative terminal of the ignition coil to the points that I circled in red.

That's fine, thanks for telling me. Repeat the test from post# 56.

You have a solid ground at the negative terminal at the ignition coil, and if the results from post 56 gives you a green light, by definition you should have 12 volts between the positive and negative terminal at the ignition coil.