One of my absolute favorite color combinations. What a perfect time capsule. Congrats on a tremendous score.
For overheating, you may want to check if the cold start bellows are functioning correctly. I am far from a mechanic, but saw that was an issue on a teener Ed worked on, on Wheeler Dealers.
Full Version: Garage Find 1972 East Coast
Fixed the leaking fuel line, completed a 12 mile shake down drive. No fuel leaks and she drives great. Much better than my 71. Left turn signal doesn't work, checked the bulbs all ok. I suspect a bad connection in the switch when turning left it started to work. I also have the blinking brake lights on dash. It looks like the ebrake isn't hitting the switch. I've searched for a fix but do not see a thing for the early split lever. Car is so quiet and smooth.
QUOTE(lvnzdrm @ Sep 4 2016, 05:51 PM) 
Fixed the leaking fuel line, completed a 12 mile shake down drive. No fuel leaks and she drives great. Much better than my 71. Left turn signal doesn't work, checked the bulbs all ok. I suspect a bad connection in the switch when turning left it started to work. I also have the blinking brake lights on dash. It looks like the ebrake isn't hitting the switch. I've searched for a fix but do not see a thing for the early split lever. Car is so quiet and smooth.
Its nice. I like the green with the tan interior combo.
QUOTE(lvnzdrm @ Sep 4 2016, 05:51 PM)
Fixed the leaking fuel line, completed a 12 mile shake down drive. No fuel leaks and she drives great. Much better than my 71. Left turn signal doesn't work, checked the bulbs all ok. I suspect a bad connection in the switch when turning left it started to work. I also have the blinking brake lights on dash. It looks like the ebrake isn't hitting the switch. I've searched for a fix but do not see a thing for the early split lever. Car is so quiet and smooth.
I have the early handbrake in my car.
When I release it I apply force on the rear of the handle to insure that the part that presses on the switch rotates down fully.
It's not ideal and you could never explain it to a new driver but I can always get the light to go out.
Check the brake pad clearance and the brake cable adjustment.
Sometimes the handles are weak or bent and miss the switch completely.
And of course the wire could be grounding somewhere.
QUOTE(rgalla9146 @ Sep 5 2016, 03:46 AM)
QUOTE(lvnzdrm @ Sep 4 2016, 05:51 PM)
Fixed the leaking fuel line, completed a 12 mile shake down drive. No fuel leaks and she drives great. Much better than my 71. Left turn signal doesn't work, checked the bulbs all ok. I suspect a bad connection in the switch when turning left it started to work. I also have the blinking brake lights on dash. It looks like the ebrake isn't hitting the switch. I've searched for a fix but do not see a thing for the early split lever. Car is so quiet and smooth.
I have the early handbrake in my car.
When I release it I apply force on the rear of the handle to insure that the part that presses on the switch rotates down fully.
It's not ideal and you could never explain it to a new driver but I can always get the light to go out.
Check the brake pad clearance and the brake cable adjustment.
Sometimes the handles are weak or bent and miss the switch completely.
And of course the wire could be grounding somewhere.
Thanks for the info, it worked like a champ. My 71 doesn't have a switch in it yet (floor board repair). I pushed down on the rear half of the handle and the light went out. I understand why it would be hard to explain to a driver.
I drove another 12 miles today. There was a hesitation when turning.... I have to keep doing the shake down drives. Hoping to make a local car show in 2 weeks.
QUOTE(lvnzdrm @ Aug 12 2016, 02:21 AM)
I met a guy at a local Air Cooled VW Club meeting a few years back. He was an older guy who said he had a 914 in his garage and had never drove it. He asked for my contact info and if I ever worked on them. 2 years later I get a call from him asking if I could come look at the car. I grabbed a buddy and we headed over. When we arrived we saw several cars under tarps and I thought this thing was going to need a lot of work being an East Coast car. We we to a garage out back and there it was.... A 1972 local owned, zero rust car. He bought it from an estate sale 8 years ago. After chatting a bit I discovered he wanted to sell the car. After a little negotiating with house CEO and the pending Sale of my Mini S, I now own another 914. It felt like something out of American Pickers and I'm honored to have been able to buy this car. It has a re-spray but is very original with owners manual and tool pouch. I hope to bond with it this weekend and get it going. Any feedback or comments are appreciated.
Jon
WOW what a find. it looks pristene from here.... but you MUST tell us the real story.
have you gotten under it yet?
congrats I am jealous
I need some help with this 72, it quit running on me and I'm fighting gremlins. This what I have done so far:
Valve adjustment
Test and replace CHT
Test and repaired AAR
Replaced Vaccumm lines
Test and Passed MSP
Pertronix installed- after points drove me crazy
Triggers points Ohmed out cleaned and tested
Fuel pressure tested 30psi
Replaced fuel filter
Cleaned ground on center engine case
Attempted to set timing, car not making any power
Car starts when cold and idles fine, then starts to slowly die. Car makes no power. I can not get it to rev up. The goal is to drive it to Hershey in 7 days, my wife says I look like a kid with a broke big wheel. Any help is appreciated. If not sorted by end of weekend I'll have to work on plan B for Friday
Thanks in advance
Valve adjustment
Test and replace CHT
Test and repaired AAR
Replaced Vaccumm lines
Test and Passed MSP
Pertronix installed- after points drove me crazy
Triggers points Ohmed out cleaned and tested
Fuel pressure tested 30psi
Replaced fuel filter
Cleaned ground on center engine case
Attempted to set timing, car not making any power
Car starts when cold and idles fine, then starts to slowly die. Car makes no power. I can not get it to rev up. The goal is to drive it to Hershey in 7 days, my wife says I look like a kid with a broke big wheel. Any help is appreciated. If not sorted by end of weekend I'll have to work on plan B for Friday
Thanks in advance
swap the coil it could be failing or alternator has packed up. sounds like your spark is breaking down.
Jon, based on symptoms described I would recommend carefully inspecting the wiring between the CHT and ECU for shorts. These harnesses get old and brittle, and your CHT may be new but if the connection is sketchy or plain shorted you will experience symptoms like what you have. Good luck. Gotta get it fixed for Hershey!
Swapped coil, no change. It will only run on starting fluid than shuts off. No fuel.... how do I test the pump running when the car fires? Vapor lock maybe???
All help is appreciated
All help is appreciated
QUOTE(BeatNavy @ Apr 14 2017, 03:00 PM)
Jon, based on symptoms described I would recommend carefully inspecting the wiring between the CHT and ECU for shorts. These harnesses get old and brittle, and your CHT may be new but if the connection is sketchy or plain shorted you will experience symptoms like what you have. Good luck. Gotta get it fixed for Hershey!
Completed the wiggle test through the harness, if it sits for about 15 minutes it will start up for a second then shut off...3 hours ago it was purring.... then shut off. Plan B may be the 71
disconnect the harness from the the fuel pump, run jumper wires to the post from a 12 volt battery and see if the pump runs continuously. if it does, not the pump go backwards on the wiring
QUOTE(injunmort @ Apr 14 2017, 03:54 PM)
disconnect the harness from the the fuel pump, run jumper wires to the post from a 12 volt battery and see if the pump runs continuously. if it does, not the pump go backwards on the wiring
The pump comes on with the key, then stops. When cranking I can feel the pump working. It never starts up. Should I cut open the harness to check all the wires?
I got it running.... it was a faulty "ID 10 Tee" valve.... and the "OOG" sensor failed. Drove the car close to 200 miles. Thanks for all the help.
Jon
Jon
QUOTE(lvnzdrm @ Apr 16 2017, 02:27 PM)
I got it running.... it was a faulty "ID 10 Tee" valve.... and the "OOG" sensor failed. Drove the car close to 200 miles. Thanks for all the help.
Jon
Time to fess up. What was it?
Some how...... it was Out Of Gas.....
I've BTDT before though...
Look like a beautiful car!
QUOTE(bigkensteele @ Apr 16 2017, 05:06 PM)
QUOTE(lvnzdrm @ Apr 16 2017, 02:27 PM)
I got it running.... it was a faulty "ID 10 Tee" valve.... and the "OOG" sensor failed. Drove the car close to 200 miles. Thanks for all the help.
Jon
Time to fess up. What was it?
I wouldn't feel too bad about that. I ran out of gas on my first trip in my car. I found out the hard way that 3/8 on the gauge was empty. I have since cleaned up my sending unit, and I think that it is probably accurate, but I have no reason to take it to less than 3/8, so why risk it?
QUOTE(bigkensteele @ Apr 17 2017, 02:32 PM)
QUOTE(bigkensteele @ Apr 16 2017, 05:06 PM)
QUOTE(lvnzdrm @ Apr 16 2017, 02:27 PM)
I got it running.... it was a faulty "ID 10 Tee" valve.... and the "OOG" sensor failed. Drove the car close to 200 miles. Thanks for all the help.
Jon
Time to fess up. What was it?
I wouldn't feel too bad about that. I ran out of gas on my first trip in my car. I found out the hard way that 3/8 on the gauge was empty. I have since cleaned up my sending unit, and I think that it is probably accurate, but I have no reason to take it to less than 3/8, so why risk it?
no shame on that,old cars eh?..have found in the past with my paddock collection that they read fuel onboard and die after a short run,usually involves a walk with a fuel can
and then the level seems to show correctly...happened many times.This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.