I have been trying to adjust my shifter to improve the upshift from 1st to 2nd and the downshifts from 4th to 3rd. I can adjust the upshift from 1-2 without grinding reverse but when I do, I don't have a clean down shift from 4-3. For the down shift I need to slightly force left against the 1 gear lockout. Simply going to nuteral, pop left, release, then the downward movement will put me into 3rd. If I don't force against the lockout I end up in 5th.

If I adjust to eliminate the 4-3 issue I end up with a grind of reverse in the 1-2 shift unless I go to nuteral and then slightly right before the upshift.

Is this normal behavior or is there an adjustment for the 1-R lockout that I don't know about?

No.

Have you checked your coupler cone screws? If they aren't tight, you'll never get your linkage adjusted right.

Thanks Andy. Will check the cone screws today.

When all the pivot points are tight you'll be able to shift without thinking.

Could also be wear in any of the bushings. Check for play everywhere the bushings go.

--DD

Thanks guys! Now that I know that its not normal I'll start checking out the items as you have suggested.

Sir Andy - you nailed it. A loose cone screw at the coupling. Thanks.

Panel Billy - after slight adjustment it does shift like butter (hard butter, not soft).

Did you use a new cone screw? They are one time use only, they have a little metal pin in the threads to lock them down, which will not work when reused.

If you don't have a new screw, a little dab of blue Loctite works until you get a new screw.

There are a couple of good write ups with techniques for adjusting better, too. IN my noted in my sig you can see my way. Hope that helps, too. And do what Andy said

You are, at the very best, probably always going to be shifting "hard-er" butter. I've tracked a 901 - yikes! I believe there were a couple folks here trying to figure out how to adapt an air cooled engine to mate up to one of these (G87-20). Since you've solved your issue now - I don't feel (as) bad about going off track, a little.

PS: I believe Clay P. is adapting his 4.0 to a variant of this too. He'll love it!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pTgOCuiczAE

I expect I have the same problem. Will Pelican know what I am asking for?

There is a variation on the hex drive cone screw most 914s use. It is slightly longer, has the same cone geometry and has a square head with a through hole for a safety wire. I believe it's a 911 part. Works good as a replacement/upgrade. Won't come loose when wired and can be used multiple times. I went through your shifting woes until I found out about them.

That description sounds a lot like a type 1 beetle shift rod screw.

Now I don't think it is the beetle screw, it's short and has a fatter grub.

Pelican lists the same 914 screw for 911.
I see this pic in a google search, but it must be an old ebay ad.

I just bought 4 from PP. Get the ones with the plastic insert to keep them tight. If you have to take it out, don't use the same one again, use a new one for maximum security. Cheap insurance and worth keeping some extras on hand.

Its also the only square head screw on a 356

I did not use a new one. That is now on my list next time a crawl under the car. Thanks Andy.

Dr. Evil,
I rebuilt my transmission at your clinic at OCin Sonoma 2 years ago. It's never been better. And I did follow your adjustment method which works well once the cone screw is tight.
Thanks.

JWest (member vendor) sells the cone screw with a jam nut as opposed to the one time use version. $5.25 each and you can reuse them over and over. Or, pay $6 each for OEM. Be sure to buy 4 as you will prob need them in the future.

A dab of nail polish on the threads of the cone screw is plenty to keep it from loosening up. Ive never bought a new cone screw in 7 years of 914 daily driving and removing the shift linkage more times than I can ever remember.

I've also used blue loctite with no issue. Don't over think it. It's just a screw, and I'm not paying $6 for a screw...