I tried a quick check of the archive but didn't find what I was looking for. Are there any write-ups on converting / re-plumbing the three port '74 fuel pump to the more common and available new and less costly two port variety?

I've got a '74 2.0 being put back into action after 12 years and the fuel pump seems to need an occasional hammer tap to at times to get the it woken and running. I'd welcome other suggestions. Is rebuilding viable with available parts (not too interested in nearly $400 for an AutoAtlanta rebuild)? Maybe take it off and run heavy concentration of fuel cleaner through it?

Thanks in advance,

Doug

Go to FLAPS and get an Airtex E8445 or equivalent. It is a two line pump that will replace the 3 line. Just remove the Y fitting with a straight through hose.

Bosch 2-port is $66 on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZL8S2

Lots of write ups floating about. Search for relocating fuel pump.

Thanks for the online (and PM George) suggestions.

It will be nice to turn the key and be pretty confident I'm going to hear the "bdrrrrp" as it pressurizes the lines.

Doug

I just went through this. In fact I drove the car with the new pump for the first time today. Well short of a quick test drive last night. My 3 port was doing the same thing as yours. It would work fine if I drove it a lot. If it sat, it needed a tap. It finally got the point where a tap wasn't enough.

My car already had the pump relocated to the front trunk and my tunnel lines are converted to stainless so my suggestions are in that context. I got the Bosch 69133 pump suggested above and I also got a Napa 3274 fuel filter which steps the tank outlet size up to the fuel pump inlet size. You will also need another step up from the fuel pump hose outlet to the fuel line in your tunnel. Sorry I don't know the sizes. I just happen to have the right part in my bin of hose hardware. My 3rd port line was routed to my return under the tank so I just eliminated that tee and routed the return hose from the tunnel directly to the tank.

I had to lift the tank to do the work which I hate doing but it was the easiest way.

Yep, you do need to remove the tank but you probably want to replace those old hoses with proper FI rated line anyway.

Here is a tip for when you put tank back in. The rubber fuel lines will want to kink, especially near where they connect to tank.

The trick I discovered ,the second time I pulled the tank, is to loop the hose which a lot of folks will tell you. I put a loop right near where the hose connect to the tank. I then used a loose fitting zip tie to secure the loop to the metal that the hose connects to. Unlike the first time around, dropping it back in without kinking the hose was a piece of cake. The zip tie was the key.

Getting rid of the 3 way fitting (T or Y) is a plus.