I am looking to buy a 914 and am interested in getting an engine swap to a Porsche 6. Is there anyone that has performed this or knows a lot about the topic?

Well, you certainly came to the right place!

How often do you plan to drive it? All cars hate sitting.

There have been countless /6 conversions in the last 40+ years which isn't really a surprise since Porsche designed the 914 to have a /6 in it.

If properly done, bulletproof! In 43 years of Porsche 914-6 ownership, I only needed one flatbed tow when my old Marelli distributor's rotor failed.

Just time and money but it can be done. And if done well makes for a very nice car.

>>How reliable is a 914 with a Porsche 6 engine swap?<<

Well, that will depend on the engine you chose, the quality of the parts you use, and the way you use the completed car.

Here is my own 28 year experience with a 914/6 conversion (very condensed):

I bought my '73 914 in 1986, shortly after getting a chance to drive a '70 1.7L. I was hooked right away.
It had a 4-cylinder engine when I bought it.

After learning there was such an animal as the 914/6, in 1988 I converted my 914 into a /6 using a 1973 911-T 2.4 liter engine ( CIS fuel injection ),
911 Carrera front suspension & brakes, 911SC rear brakes, etc. (it is going to FINALLY get 914/6 heat exchangers next month! heh heh)

The 2.4L-T engine had ~90K miles on it when I bought it and installed it in my 914 back in 1988. The same engine is still in the car today, 28 years later.

I have driven the 914/6 approximately 220K miles since the /6 conversion. The only major work done on the engine since installation has been a valve job (2006).
Other than that, just tune-ups, seal replacements, and a couple of alternators and clutches.

Caveat: I do not race the 914. I built it as a "Touring" car, hence the choice of a 911-T motor, and that is the way I drive it. It does keep up with traffic no problem.

The two times it needed a flatbed tow were due to:
1. failed ignition points rubbing block (1999).
2. 42 year old coil wire came out of it's connector (2015).

It is a blast to drive on the local twisties and is very reliable. Hop in, turn the key and Neet VROOOM !
( if the engine is cold, Neet Neet VROOOM ! )
I drive it all the time, to work etc. (it is waiting outside right now waiting for me to get off work today).

it would be my daily driver

I put a 3.2L motronic in mine and used all the right conversion parts (many threads in here). It is bulletproof. Starts first time...every time. I'd drive it anywhere with no worries.

So what Porsche 6 engine could one use if one's desire was to keep it air-cooled? I've seen all kinds of P6, LS, V8, Subi conversions, and to keep things simple, I'd assume keeping it air-cooled would be obvious. No need to mess with cooling system parts, routing, etc. For a daily driver, I would think keeping it air-cooled would be the way to go. Track usage would be a different story...

If I do the swap for you? Not very.

Any 911 donor MY98 and earlier. You have choices of 2.0L - 3.6L. Recommend searching through this site - dozens of examples, lists of parts needed, and other recommended upgrades (suspension, brakes).

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=44700

3.2 and 3.6 are very reliable. I'd get in mine and drive it across the country and only worry about it getting stolen from the hotel lot. but I do have LoJack so...

IMO the key to a good conversion is a bunch of research,there are wrong and right ways and because of the cost you need to get it right first time.
Engines ?....buy the best used one you can from a good known source or buy a core longblock and get it rebuilt.
Which engine?...if you are on a budget the earlier 6 bolt flywheel engines are cheaper to buy and don't require a custom flywheel/clutch combo,if you want more power and have a healthy budget the 3.0,3.2 and 3.6 make great power in these light cars.
Later engines are getting harder to find because of the current 911 "hotrodding" trend so expect to pay top dollar for the 3.2 and 3.6 ones especially.
The early engines 2.0 - 2.7 don't require a front mounted cooler,however the 2.7 could be marginal in really hot climates,the 2.7 has it own separate issues so think carefully before buying one of these.
Engine mounts?....several options here from many suppliers,there are several designs out there some better solutions than others.
Oil system?....best to go to AN hoses and fittings with a suitably modified hard pipe from your crankcase return,replica oil tanks are currently availiable from 2 suppliers that I know of @ present as stock original ones are hard (almost impossible) to find.
The oil filter console is an early 911 one that can be purchased in used condition,the oil tank filler neck is an aftermarket part also,I guess you could modify a 911 one but you may spend more than its worth.
Electrical?...you will need a custom engine loom which can be purchased from 3 current suppliers,depends if you intend to use carbs or FI,gauges can be sourced from the 911,various ones can be used but sender units must be matched correctly.
Igntion systems can be upgraded to modern technology,these provide a hotter spark and much improved fuel burn,several options there,I'am running Petronix II and factory CDI very happy with it,
Exhaust?....headers are commonly used but you will have no heater for defrosting your windscreen.,factory copy heatexchangers can be purchased,these aren't a high volume production item so the cost is high per pair.
Mufflers from any 911 up the 3.0 (?) can be used you need the 2 in 1out type,these are easy enough to find and not too load,however they are rather heavy.
There are other aftermarket options to consider.
Fuel system?...a low pressure rotary pump,gauge and pressure regulator are required for running carbs,many run stock injection with but I have no first hand experience with that,the main benefit will be better economy,cleaner power delivery and less tuning in the long run.
Carbs well setup generally provide more power at the expense of fuel economy.
Throttle linkage parts can be purchased as kits or made from modified 911 parts,the kits are certainly easier to get sorted
Brakes?....many differant conversions/options out there with some suppliers offering kits,most components will be 911 parts to suit.
What ever is used depends on the use of the car and horsepower of the engine fitted,research in the area will provide various solutions,well covered on here in the past.
These are the main issues to consider,but as I found out there is a lot of lesser issues to consider that add to the cost and time spent,its not really too hard to do if you have the right parts and good DIY skills,not really a conversion you want to be paying for someone else to complete.
Trust me the end result is worth it...makes for a really fun car...I enjoy mine a lot,you tend to forget all the hard work involved when you are .
Plenty of people have done it and can offer plenty of tips over and above my reply, .

There are tons of conversion threads on here that will be helpful. Here's one from the classics:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=15282

Mine has been to ABQ in the west and the Tail of the Dragon in the East.

After about 60K on the 2.4, it cracked the engine case. Not the car's fault, just age.

So now it is getting a much bigger engine. Should be more reliable too.

My 2.7 ran hotter than my current 3.2. I quickly installed a front mounted GT oil cooler to get the 2.7 down to normal temperatures. I put over a 100k miles on the 2.7 before it started pulling head studs. It was cheaper to buy a 3.2 from a wrecking yard at the time, than to rebuild the 2.7. My current 3.2 probably has over 200k miles and has never been overhauled and still runs great. I had the 2.7 in the car from 86-99 and the 3.2 from 2000 to now and still going strong.

All the replies are spot on. Only thing I would add is
: how deep is your expendable funds for this venture?

The expense of these conversions with the top end products can be mind boggling. But once done, it will bring a bid smile every time you push the pedal down....especially if its a 3.6 and above.

If you want a turn key conversion, Patrick Motorsports in Az is a great place to start.

OK here is a pic thread of what is almost done. It is very reliable. Super fast but a huge 2 yr endeavor. I would not recommend for the faint of heart. It takes lots of research and considerable cash flow. The end is for sure worth it. I can answer most questions. See pic link that is not in order but you will get the idea. A little info as follows. Parts installed are 930 ft brakes, 928 rear, 1980 3.0l highly modified with twm and electromotive, 42x42 twin plug heads, windage mods, molded 915 transaxle with wevo,
Gateway shift, 5 Guage dash, ft oiling 16gt capacity dry sump, ft pump and filter in trunk, anyway check pics. You can do it simpler, get a donor Car! 911 front end bolts directly!

Tim

https://goo.gl/photos/9LDBUmAeFohwkycT8

As six engines become very expensive a LS2 or LS3 engine conversion becomes very attractive.

Wow, congrats on a fantastic build . As I was viewing the photos, first thing I noticed was, a quality 5 arm p201 vs some knot off cheap one, then I noticed the 930 brakes for that vintage look the billet side cover and Wevo 915 / 916 arrangement. I'm happy to see another "quality " build.

Oh, LSD. I couldn't make out if the ZF is an open or locked?
If ZF LSD, locking factor and stock gears or?

Tim. Check your pm's

If its aircooled

Then big.4 crowd is supposed to be cheaper /as fast

And you could still put 914/6 badge ,just don't pop the hood

Nothing personal, but I'd have to really question that thinking. When you start pushing a big 4 past 200hp (which is easy to do reliably with a 6), it's not going to be a street-friendly long-life engine. The topic included reliability.

Please don't be the guy who puts a poser badge on. I'd much prefer a sleeper than a something with a poser badge that suggests something it can't deliver. It might fool ignoramuses, but will only embarrass you when you start the engine and it obviously doesn't sound like a 6.

OP: How are you going to drive it? Just street? Do you have performance goals, or just reliability? There are no blanket answers, it depends on your goals for how you are going to use the car.

Thanks for the nice Words! I did not install a lockup differential. My budget was pushing the envelope and opted to leave the 915 stock and flip ring gear. I did replace all bearings, dogteeth and syncros though along with wevo.

I wanted to burn that damn car more than Once! Now it's running I love it. Taking it on a rally today with Porsche club

Tim

Need to be clear here, dependable compared to what? For some perspective if you've read anything on this site you've noticed that people here exchange a lot of information about parts, things breaking, and the best way to fix them. A lot of things and a long list. So how dependable? It's a 40 year old car. It will be more dependable than a lot of other 40 year old cars, but that doesn't change the fact that it's a 40 year old car and will need the regular, near constant attention that any 40 year old car needs. Let me repeat that so it's clear, it's a 40 year old car, so don't think it will be like a new car/appliance. It won't, it can't, because it's a 40 year old car.

Yep and if you want to keep the center of gravity low like the P6 then the Subaru 6 is the answer.

I can tell you I have owned 2 911s, one 930, 1 914-6, 1 964 all Porsche 6 powered cars.. I have used them to commute as a daily for a while but always had a back up modern car.. I have been stranded 2 times once in the 964 for a bad coil giving a bad signal to kill the other coil (twin plugs) and once in my 930 when the msd box over heated.. Otherwise the 6 is a pretty reliable car and I have been doing this a long time. I look at things different then when I was younger. There is no way I could daily one of those cars now because of kids and clients that I take to meetings etc..

Well worth the conversion but not sure a dd is realistic though I know those that do.

I owned this car 3 times over 12 years with 3 different engines. My first 2.2 six swap failed because of my configuration and conversion errors. The second was a 2.5 engine that was built by a professional. I went back and re-did the six conversion better after lessons learned. I drove the tires off it for about 18 months until I sold it (should not have!).

Yes, a six conversion can be a solid driver. BUT, you have to do it right. This means (as others have said) it will take time and money.

I know of a nice track/DE car in the Charlotte NC area. Nice 3.0 conversion with good suspension upgrades, and a cage that was done at Tangerine. PM me if this is of any interest.

Porsche as a DD, a big yes you can.
When I was attending university after high school, I had a 70 T and then a 74 911 as a daily driver- put 90k miles on that 74. Driving those 911's during that time was one of the best !

So, yes they can be a daily driver.

some people have nothing but trouble! IMO because they dont sweat the details, some it goes very smooth because they do

Hi Dan

If it was me, I'd just get one with the conversion already done. I personally don't have the patience, skills, or knowledge to do something like this, and no desire to learn. That's one of the reasons why I got my Sonoma with the LT1/T56 swap already done. You pays your money, turn the key, and off ya go...

But in keeping with the topic of a P6 engine, I'd still opt for one that's air-cooled first, then water-cooled. If I was buying one already converted, the water-cooled would be at the top of my list. But if I had to do it, it'd be air-cooled all the way, to keep things simple.

Reliable? Totally if you keep it well maintained. Expensive? Doing a conversion and buying a motor can run into serious dough. There is a lot involved. Another poster recommended buying a car already converted, and that would be my advice unless you have deep pockets because bigger motor means bigger brakes and an oil cooler and and and....