Also if you use the Tangerine shift adjuster you can get a 20% reduction in throw with the stock shifter. Added bonus you get more precision adjustment of the shifting so you can tun it up.
You could also have a bar splined and shortened if you wanted to pull it back a few inches.
Other options to recurve the shifter.
Or drop an extension handle on it and pull it back. Takes away from the stock look though.
I would think you could bend the shifter just a bit and no one would ever know until they got in and not the shifter in a farther back position than you wanted.
Trail and error method.
Rais the front of the shifter base with a spacer. Washers work good for testing. This brings the shifter back toward you a bit. Extend the rod out as fat as you can in the coupler and be safe. Rotates the rod back towards you more. Moving the knob back. And then make sure you can still get to R 2 4. More than likely you will run out of shifter movement in the ball and cup before you do rod.
If you need more rod, lengthen it. Once you have the spacers set. Measure the total stack, get a spacer made. I would gladly make one for your Minilites
The spacer is easy, gladly make you one if you need me to. You will just need longer bolts. You could also raise the back if you need the shifter up to make up for a cut in length. I don't think you can make up for a 3" cut though. WeltMeister kit might have been 1/2 -1 inch max. I have not had once since the early 2000s
You could also machine the shifter housing to pull it back, tilt the socket, and then raise the front and rears etc.... Much deeper discussion.