Well for better or worse I couldn't resist this craigslist find, I am sure it will take a bit of work but hoping it is worth it!
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Pick it up this weekend. The dash is interesting
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I am near Portland and evidently it was built in Oregon and the engine was built by Hatch Racing Engines in Aumsville, OR, I have the original build sheet which I will post

Neat looking car. More pics please- the engine and turbo set up?

The engine build sheet is attached.
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they have a s.s. o-ringed Crower A5804 special turbo cammed which has 114 degrees of lobe seperation which is good for turbos and gives a broad mid range. They dropped the compression to 7.78 which likely means they are going to be running significant boost. Since they syainless steel o-ringed the cylinder head I am expecting quite a fair amount of boost, ~10-14 pounds, they used a buick aluminum V-8 & turbocharged it in a draw through setup, ( I'M curious to see what kind of seal is in the turbo. I believe electronic water /methonal injection is also used and there is a poppet valve on the back side and a manifold gauge..

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Hopefully I will have the car home this weekend and take some pics, these came from the seller
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Last one. any info, especially on which body kit this is would be appreciated. Click to view attachment

That should be fun, if you have access to E85 you can run way more boost that measly 10psi, even without you can run more than that.

sort of.

With out knowing the real compression ratio of the engine, that is just a guess.

That being said, E85 will certainly make that easier, but you will have to reset that carb. replace fuel system pieces to be compatible with E85 and a whole list of other oddities that E85 bring.

If doing E85 do yourself a favor, go EFI, add an intercooler, and boast the living out of it, and then hang on

My next move would be to put throttle bodies on it and efi.

This isn't a kit. The guy built this car. Those flares are all metal. I know this car a little. It was from Monmouth when I met the guy. He brought it to my first 914 get together I put on. It was called the PNW914meet & I had it at my pizza parlor in Monmouth. I think it was in 1997 or 98. It was a well built car. I had thought about trying to get up & see it when I saw it on CL. Just didn't get the time too.

Congrats on the buy. Should be one quick ride. I'll be curious to hear more once you pick it up

Even on W/M, 10psi is a lot for no intercooler, He's probably got it tuned for pig rich to compensate and prevent pinging.

The first thing I would do would be to put a turbo blanket on that thing and build some heat shields for the exhaust manifolds. Turbo's spool up faster when they are warm and have hot air through them. Ambient hot air from the exhaust will cause for warm air through the intake, thus decreasing your power. This will also protect things better in your engine bay from the heat.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-T3-Titanium-Tu...nYL&vxp=mtr


Next is go through all that loose wiring and protect it from anything exhaust related.

Adding an air to water intercooler would be a good idea, space is limited so a simple log might be all you can get away with. This will again get you colder air into the turbo making more power efficiently.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALUMINUM-13-75-x4-...1rA&vxp=mtr
(You'll need a small radiator and pump for this...)


It looks like a well put together car. Congrats! Welcome to the turbo club!

I like it. Good deal and congrats. Should be a blast to drive.

It is also running water injection, keep that tank filled! Nice thing about water injection, combustion chambers are uber clean. That constant steam cleaning makes things very nice. The bad, when you let the water run out, bad things can happen. Keep it filled!!

Wiring would be the first thing if the car drives fine in your opinion. Ye EFI is you friend, but if the thing is running well, drive it and enjoy it. Lots of things can be fixed, but its your ride, enjoy it.

Oh and we all forgot

At 7.78:1 static for great mid rpm band performance I think you are going to want your boost coming in pretty early, lets see how it drives , I am going to focus on that and see where it leads..
It seems it has electronic water/methanol injection so I would think even on pump gas on a 7.78:1 should hit 12.5-14.5 psi, online calculators for 12 psi yield 350 hp
For 19.5 psi you have 450 hp.

Weight/hp On line calculators :
http://www.060calculator.com/
914 350 hp 0-60 3.3 secs
914 450 hp 0-60 2.7 secs

your mileage will definitely vary, but mid band response is more critical to me. Again I haven't driven it due to inclement weather screwing up my travel plans so waiting to get it here and dig into it..

Wow, a lot of work went into this car. Cool outlaw.

Ok I have it in the garage and the automotive archeology has begun.
Somethings great, some bad, some like the wiring, a bit unreal & under immediate reconfiguration.

New pictures soon

In the garage, it has had some rough times but repairable. more pics later...

Intercooolers on draw through turbo systems is a very dangerous NO GO. Do NOT ever recommend that when the carb is in front of the turbo!



The turbo lag on this system, a draw through 650cfm 218 CID sporting a RAJAY EE 2.24 turbine with a A/Roof 1.3 has ONLY ONE SOLUTION:

That is the clutch and a down shift at WOT and a snap shift at two Mississippi as all hell is braking loose; no other real solution.

in the late seventies I drove a 23 PSI turbocharged race gas corvair engine through many off road races, it works well enough with practice, even in hard chop sandwash sideways exit type scenarios, but these days that kind of behavior on public roads in this car may have significant financial and legal repercussions :...

I will get into my options later but until you can size the carb to the N/A airflow you will never have anything but real lag going from N/A/ to boost, so either love it or go modern:
E.g. Put the carb in front of the turbo, keep the N/A AF ratio around 13.5:1 and and the timing correctly advanced, then an intercooler and a modern small A/R ratio with trim and a double pumper 450cfm holley with boost referenced power valve, the boost timing system set correctly.....

Didnt even think about the draw through aspect. So used to MPFI!

You generally want flames to come out the tailpipes. Not so much exploding inside the turbo but I've seen systems set up like that. What was that Molly Hatchet song - Flirtin' with Disaster?!

Ya, Im pretty sure fuel injection would be on my short list for this setup.

The auto archeology is complete until I pull the motor and trans.
some notes:
The Bad:
1) the installation is a total mess.
a)the draw through carb fuel line is so close to the exhaust manifold the plastic is melted on the see through fuel filter. Death was around every corner, the line was also frayed under the hose clamp
b) the throttle cable is in a stupid tight bend radius at the carb
c) the pedal is just as bad with the ball and socket coming apart at will
d) there is a giant garage door spring as the return spring I can only assume it was because they left their foot full time on the clutch and were using it for bracing in high speed turns
e) the wiring state was well, a mess

More Bad:
the intake had blown out silicone connectors and large pieces of silicon were through out the intake manifold and turbo, nothing was found past the turbo
After finding dead points bad ballast resistors and wiring silliness. managed to get spark. I barely managed to start the engine but there is massive fuel leaking/ being pulled into the intake manifold. I pulled the carb and checked the floats and they seemed to work, I will order new but I think there is a different issue.
I suspect the cold cranking on the mechanical pump may be "bootstrapping the psi an pushing gas past the seats, TBD

The good:
Pics to follow...
I believe the car has under 9000 total miles, odometer, pedals, original paint in the wells door cards, molding and other items all indicate low mileage. curiously there is no record on CARFAX of the VIN. I suspect it was a dealer write off of some kind..

Many interesting parts see pics to follow

The transmission is marked
914 301 101 00

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The shifter is has parts sliding around from the bushing

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cleared for clarity sorry dont know how to delete

The radiator install seems functionalClick to view attachment

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Plenty of access through the removable fiberglass firewall

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you can see on the left the partially melted fuel filter, lovely

A better shot of the caliper assembly

The Jacob electronics boost timing retard and spark duration box seems to be working correctly but it is installed in the wheel well, lots of air but lots of water..Click to view attachment

How thick is that radiator?

Brake calipers are stock, rotors are drilled. Pads likely performance oriented.

Thanks!

Quick note. Drilled rotors like this that were not cast drilled often crack in high heat applications. The drilling of the rotors doesnt help with cooling it simply helps with expansion of gasses from the brake pads. Its now not commonplace to do this practice like it was back when this car was likely setup.

Agree unless treated post drill. I will check to see if drilled or "cast drilled"

OK and now onto the POR15 in a few key places, including some ideas I have on the trunk lid edge joint internal surface....

No 914 rear rotors have been cast with holes to my knowledge

I know that radiator I have the same one in a Buick/Rover V8 TVR Vixen.
It is a Modine made for sprint cars

10 psi is not measly.
And the idea of using crap gas so you can get the needle on a gauge to go higher is a tad ........ well it isn't very logical.

It's really really difficult to make an intercooler work on a draw through system like that and to suggest running more than 10 psi without an inter-cooler is kinda dumb.

E85 is not crap gas, its about 110-115 octane....

Just because its cheaper than regular doesnt make it crap. It just needs to be tuned properly because it takes about 30% more fuel.

I originally bought the car because back in the day during my junior '77 and senior year '78 High School summer vacation I spent the summer pounding IMPCO propane components together at my Dad's good friend Herb Hills southern Ca. Impco facility. It was brutal, but part of the the reason I was there was because I was privileged to spend most of my lunch break with technical genius behind Impco, Dick Baverstock, as Dick, Ak Miller and Don Bass engineered next years Pike Peaks hill climb car.
An hour every day with Dick taught me a lot about flow bench work, vortices ,turbochargin and high octane fuel complexities.

In~1980 I also bought Herb Hills' 77 celica turbo propane street car, and drove that around L.A. as a commuter car for a couple of years.
At the time I was working at Toyota Motor Sales and my Boss had a new 1981 Toyota that had a full TRD turbo system with water, I as I remember around 15 psi max boost. One day we were going out to lunch and we both had another person in the car. He kept bugging to a little rolling "streetlight to streetlight race", I capitulated and let me call the start

Within seconds it was embarrassing, the propane spooled pretty quickly and being Herb Hills personal car Dick, Don, and Ak had it tuned pretty well and with 21 PSI of boost he was looking at my taillights within one shift. I let up as soon as hit 6500 rpm in second and slide it into neutral to avoid further embarrassment.

My Dad recently passed away at age 90, he was pretty much the last one alive from that golden era that I knew and I thought of turning this car into sort of a tribute to that spirit innovation, clean air and horsepower from that by gone era.

Unfortunately Propane has a chemical added to for leak detection, I tired a bit of the smell an went on to build a 1970 Amc AMX with my Dad that was pretty hot..

Dick and I discussed activated carbon filtration and venting etc. to control the smell but the automotive volume was tiny and no cared two bits on a commercial applications. I was thinking of continuing that technical conversation from 1978 and figuring out a way boric acid treated activated carbon as odor containment...

We have an E85 station in Portland and I thought that might be a possibility as well, not sure about the seriousness of chemical affinity of water with E85, I imagine the rubber components are easily sourced

Propane also requires a fat mixture which makes squeezing 18-20 gallons of liquid propane into the 914 a must for any useful standard usage.

I may just go N/A TBD...

You can use the neat calculator below to enter the intake vale close (34 spec, 38 for this engine as installed) static compression ((7.75) and boost to get an idea of the dynamic compression ratio.


https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/comprAdvBMW.htm

New school is 8.5:1 (9??) a bigger cam and a modern turbo, also the exhaust is closing early in old school turbo cams and new school is to use the exhaust valve as a way to shoot unburnt fuel into the manifold and spool the turbo due to the additional gas expansion in the exhaust

Can't imagine the valves appreciate that very much and I think perhaps a 4160 double pumper blow through might have a similar effect for street applications

Ok I am going to start afresh for the rebuild process on a new thread. Thanks for all the info this site is awesome

So it's only 30% crap gas?