Full Version: Cabin heat coming in even with console handle down
I kept feeling a small amount of heat coming in on my feet even with the heat control down. I checked the cables and the heater valves underneath the car, it felt like they were closing when I manipulated them. I finally pulled the valves out, and one of them had a nut stuck in the valve gap so it wouldn't close all the way. No idea how the nut could have gotten there, but it's nice to drive now without the heater leaking into the cabin! Btw, I had no use for the disconnected CAT and EGR lights on the dash, so I black plugged one light and connected the other to the cabin heat switch. Now when I pull the console lever to get heat, a red light goes on in the dash to remind me that heat is on.
Photo???
There is a rubber seal in the flapper box, on the round flapper, that degrades over 40 years and allows leaks to happen. If it's still hot, change the mixture to include fresh air
QUOTE(r_towle @ Mar 30 2017, 10:51 AM) 
There is a rubber seal in the flapper box, on the round flapper, that degrades over 40 years and allows leaks to happen. If it's still hot, change the mixture to include fresh air
Huh??? how do you do that? the flapper is either closed to the cabin or the atmosphere discharge or somewhere in between.
I expect you can get in there and use some hi temp RTV to re-nue the flapper seal.
The heated air and cooler outside air can be mixed/blended with the dash controls but that won't be of much help on hot days. Is one dash outlet warmer than the other side when the center tunnel lever is pushed down (valves closed)?
I remember that the flap inside the flapper valve is actually two pieces, riveted together. If the rivet fails the two pieces can separate, and that can send (at least some!) warm air into the interior at all times.
Alan Caldwell recommended using a nut and bolt to replace the rivet if the latter fails.
(Unless I'm thinking of some other valve that fails in this way....)
--DD
Alan Caldwell recommended using a nut and bolt to replace the rivet if the latter fails.
(Unless I'm thinking of some other valve that fails in this way....)
--DD
I had a car in that had the same problem. It was a broken impeller vane that got lodged in the flapper box and kept it open a little
QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Mar 31 2017, 06:46 PM)
I remember that the flap inside the flapper valve is actually two pieces, riveted together. If the rivet fails the two pieces can separate, and that can send (at least some!) warm air into the interior at all times.
Alan Caldwell recommended using a nut and bolt to replace the rivet if the latter fails.
(Unless I'm thinking of some other valve that fails in this way....)
--DD
I fixed mine that way. Just a little heat on a hot summer day is too much!
I removed the flexible hoses in the summer....that also worked
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