Other than the transmission, what are the differences in the these two model years. I also now have a 1972 under consideration for restoration. Not concourse quality, but an excellent driver quality car is the plan.

If at the end of the day the cost to acquire and restore the 1974 is $5k-10K greater, will it be worth it in the end?

i.e. $20k-$25K to acquire and build the '74 versus $15k-$20k for the 1972.

Would love to get your thoughts.

There was no factory 2.0 in '72. (Well, the /6'was 2.0, but I doubt that's what you are looking at.) All four cylinder '72s were originally 1.7.

So more than likely, the seller has no clue & neither do I

'73 was the first year for the side shift trans and has been said, the 2.0. Lots of other small changes but those 2 things made a difference. I think it's worth a $5K difference, maybe more. If your dream is a 6, then it doesn't matter since you will change everything anyway.

...so for 20K you might want to get one.

The factory 2.0's for 73-74 MY do sell for more, & then the 75-76 2.0s just behind & a 74 2.0 LE/CanAm will be a bit more.

Use Hagerty to see where the prices now & post-resto would be using the chart of historical values down the page (use value another car to do others):

1972 1.7 -
https://www.hagerty.com/apps/valuationtools...!4?id=97330

1974 2.0 -
https://www.hagerty.com/apps/valuationtools...Porsche-914-2.0

You can see from the above that the values are pretty flat & stable lately.

For non-factory 2L - either 72 or 74 which is a converted to 2.0 /4 will be about the same I think, so pick the best condition.

Spend some time reading up on 914s to avoid the Newb mistakes, at the 914 Info section at the top of this site, plus at:

p914.com (& .org & .net)

http://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/

http://bowlsby.net/914/CanAm/

& use Jeff's form to inspect anything:
http://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/zTN_Gen_914CAF.pdf

Good Luck!
Tom
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the best one is the one that has the least rust. it will be the cheapest to restore. neither will likely be worth what you have into it, unless an LE or a /6. mho

Basically the '73 and '74 914 2.0 were the same though most of the goodies that were standard on the '73 (alloy wheels, sway bars) were optional in '74.

I'd agree, buy on condition!

I agree. The 74's started to cut quality. Less chrome or bling! Even on the gauges!

The 72 would have the early style window regulators. They are more problematic than the later scissor-lift style.

The 72 will not have the reinforcements inside the doors that the 74 does.

The 72 will not have bumper tits; the 74 will have them F&R.

The 72 might have body-colored bumpers or chrome, the 74 would have either black or chrome.

The 72 may have fixed seat belts, or may have the inertia-reel type. The 74 will have inertia-reel belts.

The 72 will have a 1.7 or a non-original engine. The 74 would have either a 1.8 or a 2.0 (or a non-original engine).

The 72 will have the tail-shift transmission. The 74 will have the side-shifter.

The 72 will have silver-dot gauges. The 74 will have black-dot gauges, unless it is an early 74 that was using up the last of the silver-dot gauges.

The 72 will have separate left and right turn signal indicators in the tach. The 74 will have just one for both--or if it has the early gauges, it will have both hooked up so they blink at the same time.

Some of the optional equipment was different. Some of the materials (e.g., seat material pattern, etc.) were different. Different body and interior options were available.

--DD

Thanks Dave, this info is extremely helpful. As a newbie, I took the Pelican Parts buying guide, serial # locator and tech data sheet to see the car under consideration earlier today that was advertised as a 72.

Good news, Bad news.

Good News is that the car was actually a 73 2.0 as per the 47329......Vin #.

Bad news is that it was only 3/4 numbers matching and had serious rust issues. Had to walk away.

The numbers matching thing means very little to me.
The rust issues are another story.
Good move.