71 Converted to side shift. I tried to extract a mangled screw--it didn't go well.

Now what? I was just to put boots on. should I just drive like this? It's a spec race car. If I do need to rebuild this, do I need the whole shift rod, or is this U-joint/C-joint somehow separable from the shift rod?

Yep, the rod has splined ends. Your's is just frozen on. After you drill out the set screw I recommend a severe cussing, a good penetrant and some heat. That piece is Aluminum, IIRC, so don't melt it.

Oh, the cussing has already been taken care of.

When you drill out the set screw, be careful to drill in the center and not drill too deep. I drilled mine out but ended up elongating the hole in the shift rod (I wasn't drilling dead center). I had to replace the shift rod.

That aluminum piece is replaceable. You're only likely to find it used as part of a shift rod, but you might be able to use a 911 shift rod coupler in its place. Or go for an aircraft-quality universal joint, with some way to adapt it to connect the two parts of the rod together.

Anyway, it's not a crime to break or cut the aluminum part so you can remove it from the front shift rod. It looks pretty thoroughly buggered up anyway now.

--DD

Cut it off put this on. http://www.sierramadrecollection.com/914-9...-76-p23609.html

IMO used ones are a PITA the threads for the locking bolt are always two more adjustments away from stripping.

Carefully cut the alloy part beside the drilled fastener so that the screw is released.
Hacksaw, Sawsall (carefull now) or disc grinder will do it.
Replace the piece and the cone screw (!?)

Thanks, Teeners....

I ordered the Sierra Madre part, backordered, but I'll get it in about 10 days.

I did that once. And my attempts to drill it out only made things worse. Took it to a local machine shop where they extracted the bolt, heliarc welded the hole shut. Ground it flat, and re-tapped it. They even machined me a couple of tapered bolts with hex heads on it and I think they charged less than $10. That was several decades ago though. But I still have those bolts. But I don't remember how I got the piece off. I guess that's the real problem.

I need to remove stripped set screws at both ends of my rear shift rod. I'm planning on trying reverse easy out drill bits. I'm not sure how easy it will come out but I'd like to avoid this problem if at all possible.

Yep, the easy outs will work and all you need then are new cone screws! Drilling in the center of the cone screw is easiest with the best cobalt or titanium nitride drill bits you can find. The tend to go straighter and don't bugger the threads. The easy out bites harder and harder while unscrewing until the set screw finally comes free.

So when choosing the easy out size, should I pick the smallest size? That way it drills down the middle without drilling the threaded outside?

I have the whole rod and coupler you can have for shipping costs if you want it. It's from a 1973. I replaced mine with one of them orange colored ones.

Try Pelican Parts. They are cheaper but Sierra Madre had a better picture. :-)

That picture was for the 911 part. Also dosent say if it comes with the pin?