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peteyd
Hey was wondering if anybody could help me out ? I had a running car which started fine, we ran out of gas now it won't start. I checked the plugs, all kinds of fire, when I the pulled plugs out they were wet .then checked coil in distributor it reads 12.6 volt.. so took all plugs out checked compression cylinder 1 100psi cylinder 2 90 psi cylinder 3 90psi cylinder 4 70psi..is this to low or fine ?checked fuses they all look good. just got car on road and she dies

thanks in advance hoping it don't need rebuild ..

Pete
Spoke
Compression looks good. Wet plugs are never a good sign. What type of induction? FI or carbs?

Squirting some starting fluid into the intake can indicate if the electrics and timing is ok.

Points or electronic ignition?
Mark Henry
Is this the yellow car again?

The 70 on #4 is low, but a compression check on a cold engine doesn't mean much.
peteyd
This has the original fuel injection.

1974 2.0L d-jet

Mark, it is the yellow car. We are still using the points, but we have a dizzy with the pertronix here. That was suppose to be your replacement though Mark.

peteyd
QUOTE(Spoke @ Jun 16 2017, 04:29 AM) *

Compression looks good. Wet plugs are never a good sign. What type of induction? FI or carbs?

Squirting some starting fluid into the intake can indicate if the electrics and timing is ok.

Points or electronic ignition?

its fuel injected
peteyd
QUOTE(peteyd @ Jun 16 2017, 05:45 AM) *

QUOTE(Spoke @ Jun 16 2017, 04:29 AM) *

Compression looks good. Wet plugs are never a good sign. What type of induction? FI or carbs?

Squirting some starting fluid into the intake can indicate if the electrics and timing is ok.

Points or electronic ignition?

its fuel injected

it has points
Keith914
Running empty may have dislodged dirt in your fuel tank which is now blocking sufficient flow.
ndfrigi
maybe try to check fuel pressure.
peteyd
I am certain it is getting fuel. The plugs are getting wet and its also getting a great spark.

maybe timing?
Mark Henry
QUOTE(peteyd @ Jun 16 2017, 09:37 AM) *



Mark, it is the yellow car. We are still using the points, but we have a dizzy with the pertronix here. That was suppose to be your replacement though Mark.


No problem if you want to try swapping them around, but unless you burned out the points, by leaving the ignition on, I don't think that's the issue.

Would it quit (cut out and then back on) while driving?
Often that can be the big hose under the fuel tank is kinked almost closed, then after driving the pump will suck it right closed resulting in the engine dying till it opens back up.
Take the rack protection plate off and there's an access hole you can stick you hand in and feel the hose for kinks.
I run a hose off a fuel rail and duct tape a pressure gauge to the rear window, then take the car out for a spin at hwy speeds. If you have any kind of pressure loss this will tell you PDQ.

You do have the transmission ground strap installed right?

Make sure that all grounds have no body paint under the connections.
peteyd
QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Jun 16 2017, 07:47 AM) *

QUOTE(peteyd @ Jun 16 2017, 09:37 AM) *



Mark, it is the yellow car. We are still using the points, but we have a dizzy with the pertronix here. That was suppose to be your replacement though Mark.


No problem if you want to try swapping them around, but unless you burned out the points, by leaving the ignition on, I don't think that's the issue.

Would it quit (cut out and then back on) while driving?
Often that can be the big hose under the fuel tank is kinked almost closed, then after driving the pump will suck it right closed resulting in the engine dying till it opens back up.
Take the rack protection plate off and there's an access hole you can stick you hand in and feel the hose for kinks.
I run a hose off a fuel rail and duct tape a pressure gauge to the rear window, then take the car out for a spin at hwy speeds. If you have any kind of pressure loss this will tell you PDQ.

You do have the transmission ground strap installed right?

Make sure that all grounds have no body paint under the connections.



Alright we got 'er! we gapped the plugs better and made sure some of the injection wiring was tight.

some of it seemed too loose.

thanks for all the help
Pete
Dave_Darling
QUOTE(peteyd @ Jun 16 2017, 08:40 AM) *

I am certain it is getting fuel. The plugs are getting wet and its also getting a great spark.


Getting fuel isn't the same as getting proper fuel pressure.

Wet plugs don't like to fire. Once you cleaned them off, does it now fire?

Once you know you have some fuel, you have good spark, and you have some compression, there are only two more things that would cause a no-start. Timing is one, but it would have to be way off. The amount of fuel is the other. It's not that hard to bump an electrical connection or a vacuum line off and throw the mixture out of whack to the point where it won't start. (E.g., CHT sensor connector unplugs, hose from the MPS gets unplugged, etc.) So you check all of your wires and hoses.

Many vacuum leaks won't prevent a D-jet car from starting, but there are a lot of electrical connections that can.

--DD
peteyd
QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Jun 16 2017, 09:14 AM) *

QUOTE(peteyd @ Jun 16 2017, 08:40 AM) *

I am certain it is getting fuel. The plugs are getting wet and its also getting a great spark.


Getting fuel isn't the same as getting proper fuel pressure.

Wet plugs don't like to fire. Once you cleaned them off, does it now fire?

Once you know you have some fuel, you have good spark, and you have some compression, there are only two more things that would cause a no-start. Timing is one, but it would have to be way off. The amount of fuel is the other. It's not that hard to bump an electrical connection or a vacuum line off and throw the mixture out of whack to the point where it won't start. (E.g., CHT sensor connector unplugs, hose from the MPS gets unplugged, etc.) So you check all of your wires and hoses.

Many vacuum leaks won't prevent a D-jet car from starting, but there are a lot of electrical connections that can.

--DD


I believe it was the CHT sensor connector. that is the white wire correct?

Dave_Darling
Most of the FI stuff has white wires. If you mean a single white wire near the #3 spark plug, then yes. It's the CHT sensor, and knocking it loose will result in a no-start. And when you spend 3 hours in the parking lot at work trying sixty-five different things only to realize that it was one simple f***ing wire that you accidentally knocked loose, you'll feel pretty dumb. Especially after several of your coworkers mock you on your way home...

Uhhh, not that I know that from experience or anything.... wink.gif

--DD
KeithVonLaws
Sounds like a CHT Issue to me... I have had the same problem in the past myself.
If you hook your Ohm meter to it you should have about 2500 Ohms at 68 degrees F. If you get a reading significantly higher than 2500 Ohms like I did the computer will command more fuel. If it is unplugged it will think it is -40 degrees F . And dump as much fuel as it can. You will likely need to change your oil too.... Good Luck
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