I see Porsche classic oil for 3.0-up is 10W60, also seeing 10W60 as a recommended fill from others.
I'll be using a dino break in and dino oil for the first few changes on my new engine, just wondering what others think of this weight.

Are the new synthetic better at transferring heat now and do they still have leak/weep issues?

Honest not looking for a fight....

Intetesting.. 10w60.. Last 3.2 ss I had used amsoil 20 50 motorcycle oil because it used zddp in it.. I think brad penn for the 2.4 I am building.

I always thought it was 20w50...maybe I'll have to check on that for sure when I get mine finished.

Also the Porsche Classic oil is semi-synthetic for the 356, 914/4 and /6 engines up to 2.7.
Full synthetic for the 3.0 and up.

I have been using Swepco 20/50 for years in my 3.0. Many 100* track days and no problems. When my motor is done I will use again

Depends on how much is leaking out

The shop that serviced my 964 that I just got it recommends Redline 20/50. 20 years ago, when I had a different 964 I used Mobil 1, and I don't think it has any zinc.

I was of the understanding that an engine that leaks at all will leak more with synthetic. Synthetic is more stable, and in most all cases a superior lubricant, and my understanding is that it precludes the need for zinc in the oil.

Some old Pano articles on this suggested that for those who want to use conventional oil,
the recommendation was for Shell Rotella which is for diesel engines, and has zinc. Further reading elsewhere suggests that Rotella isn't a good choice for gas engines, but I have used it.

It's my understanding that if the oil wasn't formulated with ZDDP, adding a ZDDP additives was useless.

Here's an older article I found some time ago: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads...engines.138386/

I have been just as confused as anyone reading articles from a variety of experts and still don't know. Always liked the idea of synthetics. My understanding is the more leaking idea came from the early synthetics that did not include seal conditioners - since addressed. On and on about ZDDP ......forever.

And so in my newly rebuilt 2.4 six I am running Mobil 1 15/50. Read their literature https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us/pvl/fi...specs-guide.pdf
It is high in ZDDP and Phos. Not as much as their "air cooled v twin" blend made specifically for Harley's, but more than their blend made specifically for Porsches (yes their on line product info lists a special Porsche blend - not sure which Porsches nor where you might find it???)

Best part is the 15-50 is readily available, I get it at Pep Boys in the 5 liter bottle.

Find something that makes you feel good and go for it. I suspect that all of the higher ZDDP stuff from a reputable vendor is all good. Good luck.

Oh yea, Henry Schmidt from Supertech recommends one of the Rotella grades and I trust his judgement and experience, but there is a big article somewhere on line that says the diesels don't test as well as Mobile 1.

I've used 15/50 or 20/50 in my 914's and 911SC without issue. Mostly due to high track use and temps that would be incurred as well as the summer season air temps. I would go as light as 10/40 in winter use. 10/60 sounds like it could be the magic "year round" oil given its viscosity range. If a new motor, it shouldn't be leaking anyway

I ran 20/50 in mine

20/50 in both my street SC and in the race 3.2 short stroke.

Charlie

I run 20/50 Valvoline VR1 in my 914 and 911 without any issues.

Henry recommends Chevron Delo 400 LE 15w40, dino diesel oil about the same as the old Shell Rotella T. It's what I use in my T1 and 4 engines, plus my tractor.
It's what I plan the use on at least my first couple oil changes.

I debating whether to try synthetic, I can get Fuchs Total, LiquiMoly and Motul brands at good prices.

I know it's a mulitigrade but to me the 60 number is a tad high.

Related question: Due availability/timing, poured 12 quarts of Brad Penn 10/50 plus 3 quarts Swepco 15/40 into rebuilt 911 2.7 engine for start up in my 914 six build. Will replace with Brad Penn after 500 miles. Any advice?

We use Rotella T at the shop. The nice thing is it usually sells for -$14 gallon at the local auto stores.

My plan was to just stick with the Delo, thinking that I should just go with that. It's about the same price, maybe a bit cheaper by the 20L (5.2 gal) pail. I think it works out to less than $4 a liter/quart.

I have a 78 SC in my car and run Driven HR1 15/50 conventional. Lake Speed has covered this in a session I was able to attend. high zink (ZDDP) startup and storage additives. It's not loaded with detergents but all the right stuff for air cooled engines. I like it better than Mobil one and Motul

The Delo oil is good, that is what I run. I am planning to do a track day soon though and am thinking of going to the Brad Penn 20-50 for a little additional protection. Also Delo is not so expensive with all the initial break-in oil changes Wayne Dempsey recommends.

Henry at Supertech mentioned they pulled motors apart after running on Delo 400 and they didn't even look used (not sure on the mileage).

My niece is an oil guru. Studied the stuff in college and is now an executive for Mobile. She's says the most important factor with oils is to pick o e and stay with it. Additives don't always play nice with each other.

I just used the LiquiMoly 10x60 in my 3.0 as I found it for a good price at the local Napa.

Cheaper than the Porsche 10x60.

Don't really have an opinion on it yet, but no trouble with pressure or temperature so far.

Apparently Mobil 1 full synthetic 15-50 is a big hit too with 1300ppm zinc, also very cheap and at walmart.

Doing some more digging on pelicanparts the majority likes Brad Penn 20w50 if the motor doesnt leak and VR1 if it does leak.

Post #20 on here has a good summary of the ultimate oil thread-
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911...-choice-sc.html