Took my car in for a 4-wheel alignment today. Very excited as it was to be the last step in my 6 year rustoration journey.

Got a call from the shop that they can't align the rear right. Problem is that they can't get less than 1/2 inch toe out on that wheel. They want to get it to -1/8 to +1/8.

Of course, the right rear is where I replaced the inner/outer longs and entire wheelhouse. I used a jig (welded up with the driver's side consoles) to get the inner/outer suspension consoles correctly aligned and I thought I had it fairly dialed in - like within 2mm - but I guess I was wrong. Beginner's luck.

They are reluctant to do the alignment saying it's going to pull right no matter what. The shop can't see any way to resolve it short of recutting the consoles or at least ovaling the inner console hole to move it forward backward. We went through all the other options including drilling out the three outboard pickup holes some more and they are saying it isn't going to fix it.

Posting the pic from 2013 after I had welded up the console to demonstrate where it sits.

They can get the other three wheels OK and they can get the R side camber correct.

Do I tell the shop to dial it in even with that much toe out? Am I going to be I live with this or is it time again?



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Did they check the arm to make sure it isn't bent? It may be a long shot, but is worth checking.

Yeah, they measured the pickup points and say they're off.

Have them checked before you worry about the pick up points.

He may need a bend trailing arm to correct for the offset ...

I went over and looked at it on the lift and both the tech and I think the trailing arm looks straight. I didn't replace the bushings so it's possible that there's some slop - but the bushings look good (which is why I didn't replace them) and slop should be noticeable in this situation. So I doubt that's it.

It really is a lot more likely that I just put the outboard console on just a smidge too far back, or, equally likely, that my imperfect jig moved when I put heat to the wheelhouse.

Having seen it on the lift, I have a better sense for the problem now. There's no way to get more toe in because the outboard trailing arm bearing is hitting the console. It can't go more forward.

(Image to demonstrate - not my car)

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There's just no way I'm going to recut and weld the console. The thought I have is to grind the part that's hitting the console - just 1/8" - and then oval and weld the bearing hole as far forward as I can get away with (probably 1/8"). Not ideal but that should get me close. Anyone see any problems with this option?

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exactly


- at some point in the life of an abused, rusted & otherwise deformed chassis - the FIX is to bend the easiest-to-bend component

for our 914 arms, take 'em off & bend 'em on a press cuz ya can't hook em up to a solid object & pull-push whilst on the car

there are numerous camber-bolt & adjustable camber link, etc fixes out there for modern bent chassis',

- all you need is the measurement chart that the frame machine guys have - many many yrs ago i bought the 1974 Mitchell Foreign Collision Estimator Guide for Porsches - (never know when ya might need it)

i can admit to having fixed a bent front end on a mid-80s toyota-nova with a hot torch & blackhawk port-o-power & heavy chains attached to an immovable trailer frame,

not to mention "straightening" a few cars i no longer recall the names of by hooking 'em up to a tree with a log chain & doing a high rpm clutch-drop launch

really - it does work! (at least good enuf for resale)

That sure looks like a really inexpensive part to try and modify...

Also give a look at Tangerine Racing's website. Chris makes that part. It is beefier and maybe tighter fitting around the control arm. maybe it would you more room for adjustment.

I saw. Really nice part.

I'm going to start by modding a stock trailing arm bearing. Should be an easy afternoon project.

If it doesn't work a conversation with Racer Chris about a custom offset bearing might be next on the list.

Bending the arm is last on the list, not because I don't want to tweak my concours cruiser, but because I'm too lazy to take the trailing arm off and then need to rebleed the brakes.

Appreciate everyone's input.

I had to bend one of my trailing arms. Rig up a press and bend away