new stuff starts at post 100


a video of me revving her a bit
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OmhgULTZfuM

Very nice Rob,

Can't wait to see some video of her on the street. I've always liked the rotary setup - and it fits so well in the 914.

Did you use stock (Mazda) FI controller or aftermarket?

Enjoy!

Hi, great thread! How's the car running?

Hey Rob, still re-cooperating from the "incident"? How's the car? I hear you have a shell to swap everything over. Good thing your radiator shroud was in the "prototype stage"

I got off my butt for 9-14,,,,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gYUSQgHcTEU...eature=youtu.be

now for some tuning and finishing,,,

Robert,

Glad to see this...got another car. That's great.

I like that solid idle. Keep up the momentum.

Well a little update,,
got my idle tuned well enough for a torture test. I had the car idle at 700 rpm for 30 minutes straight with the fans going full blast. Engine temp was a solid 185 F. same for a 1500 rpm idle. The radiator started to poop out with a 2000 rpm idle after 15 minutes the temp started to creep up a little. Outside temp was in the 90s. It looks like I might be able to make the next G&R swap with my 914!

I just drove my Rotary 914 conversion to the famous G&R parts swap BBQ. 140 miles round trip. My temps on the freeway were averaging about 203 F. Same on the way home in the afternoon. Ambient temps were 80 F, it's a cool day in So Cal. I was cruising at 80 at 3K rpm. This set up barely keeps my 13B cool on the freeway. I plan to mount a flap onto the engine bar to "scoop" up air from the bottom to try and increase the air flow through the radiator. And to install foam around some seams of the radiator to force the air up throught it.

You folks can guess the look I'm shooting for. I bet this would work great for N/A subies.

are you trying to blow the air down into the engine compartment?

if so that wont work so well because the area around the engine lid is a low pressure area as discussed many times in other threads.

at speed you would be better off pulling the air through the radiator exiting out the top of the engine compartment.

The fans are there to pull air out of the engine compartment.

Good for you for getting it to work....a scoop underneath and some air direction should help a lot. What temp do you need for a rotary, 180's? Were the fans running constantly? Are you sure all the air is out of the system? Have you tried water wetter?

Waterwetter

Available at FLAPS, supposed to take 15-20 degrees off the temp.

I mocked up an enginelid rad myself but for the 6 cylinder Subie it wasn't looking like enough cooling power and there wasn't a lot of space for airflow. For a 4 or rotary it's a great idea.

KEEP THE CHROME!!! it looks good.

Car looks great! nice chatting today!

Hi,
some friends and I are looking in to building a 13b 914. So I know that front engine brace originally is for a VW engine (probably a type 4). How much work did you have to do to use that engine mount?

thanks!

Kyle

Look at post #2 of this thread, there's a pic of my engine mount. It's pretty easy to copy. 3" x 4" angle iron with some machined holes. be sure to post pics of your build if you guys go thru with it.

Hi guys, just a quick update on our 13B 914 swap. We've started getting our engine prepped. Took off unnecessary stuff like P/S pump, smog pump, AC compressor. We also did a compression test. Our compression tester is kinda janky in that it wont hold pressure, but we measured 55-58psi in the front rotor and 55-60psi in the rear rotor. We got our Kennedy adapter plate

Up next we're looking at other deletes. So I was looking for your opinions:
Any reason Not to do OMP delete?
IAC / ACV delete?
EGR delete?
Rats nest? <-all the vacuum stuff under the TB

I guess what Im getting at is, what are the barebone needs to run a 13B?

Hi Burrelks!
Post some pics, I would love to see another rotary 914, it's one of the rarest conversion IMHO.

The rat's nest under the TB can be eliminated, get some vacuum caps and plug all the holes up, if it's smog related you don't need it. You should not delete the OMP (oil metering pump) unless you plan to pre-mix 2 stroke oil in your fuel. Rotary engines need some oil to lube the seals. I would keep the IAC unless your fuel injection does not control it.

-Rob

Just some more pics

oh and our 13B came single turbo-ed. I believe its an s5

I am using that engine too! without the turbo/intercooler (for now) I have about 1000 miles since I got her running.

shweet! theres a few things that we need to change, like we need a 12A front cover...because the engine mounts.
and then the thermostat housing came broken.... and then we broke the oil supply line for the tubro

but yeah, it should be a fun car when its done

Oh hey Kyle! Fancy seeing you here! I've been browsing this thread for months now, but I never ventured to the last two pages until tonight.

I'll try to get some pictures of our 914 to post. Right now we're working on fixing the MegaSquirt on the Type 4 that's in it so we can have a little fun while we prep the 13B for the swap.

Yeah, the only picture that I have is just of the hood up showing the fuel cell...

Hi guys,
got some follow up questions for ya

under the intake manifold theres vacuum lines going to each "oil sprayer" can those be removed? If i premix of course

Next, theres 3 turbo solenoids near the TB, do those need a vacuum source?

Basically, what all needs a vacuum source?

Thanks guys!

Hi guys! Could use your help here. Im using the 13B motor with a 12A front cover. What oil pan do I need? Because the 13B pan is too small and so is the 12A

If you are using a 13b with a 12a front cover,,, then you need an early 1974~1985 oil pan and gasket.

Lucky7racing in Duarte call them.

Is that the same as a 12A pan? Because Thats too small also

Sure thing! I spoke to Will last week, helped me order some parts. Very helpful guy

It's not the same as a 12A pan,,,, I believe you can order a GSL-SE oil pan from the dealer, or whomever you want.

And then have any of you guys used an Apexi Power FC to run your EFI? Or have any of you used Megasquirt?

We havent had the best of luck with megasquirt, but the apexi units are friggin expensive. Like $1000 in total

I never used the apexi stuff,,, I was planning on using MegaSquirt,,, but I found a good deal on a Haltec E-6k, later I do plan on upgrading to a MS2,,, the RX-7 club has a forum that should be able to help you if you go with megasquirt.

http://www.rx7club.com/megasquirt-forum-153/

or,,,,
you can go with a weber 48 IDA on a manifold from Australia, and skip all the FI head ache.

-Robert

See ive got a friend in MD that owns a rotary shop. He's strongly encouraging that we (my group of friends) use an Apexi unit. The kinda nice thing is that our club is funded by the school.

BTW, i was really amazed to see Aaron Cake's MS stuff, ive seen his videos on his cosmo all over youtube. Just kinda cool to run into him elsewhere

HI GUYS!! NEED HELP!

so im in the process of putting the rotary in the car. but I cant get the porsche trans on the rotary. I bought a kit from Kennedy. Put the adapter plate one, put the pilot bearing in. But i just cant get the trans all the way on.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,
Kyle

did you use the clutch disc alignment tool to line the splines and the pilot bearing up?

Call louie at Lucky 7 Racing...... tell him (Jaime) hymen lol sent you.

So to align the clutch, i used an old input shaft, and that didnt seem to fit in all the way either. So I might pull the pilot bearing from the VW type 2 and see what that looks like.

Thanks for the speedy responses guys! Really appreciate it!

Kyle Burrell

Hey guys,

I got the 13B rebuilt and ported. Put in a fresh throwout bearing and pilot bearing. Got the engine in her new home! (see pic)

-Kyle

Congrats. That's always a good sign when things bolt up.

Yeah, its coming together fairly well. Now we need to build all the systems to feed the new engine

-Kyle

Hi,
update to the build. got the radiator mounted, oil coolers are right infront of the rad. 2 puller fans on the back of the rad. The intercooler is mounted behind the driver. exhaust is all welded up and exhaust wrapped. we also made a fiberglass trunk lid to shave a few pounds compared to the steel trunk lid.

just an extra pic for you all

I really hope the radiator sitting there is just a temporary gag....

Hi Burrrelks,,,

It's good to see your car come together. I count 3 that can start(or pretty close on the forum now.
I have a question for you if you don't mind. Since your car seems to be a race car, why didn't you go with a front mounted radiator? do you have a rear window? or is the intercooler going to be mounted elsewhere? I am wondering what you are planning and want to see if I can add in a thing or two to your project.

-Robert

No, its not a gag. Thats really where its gonna live. It made for a good spot to put it. Itll get good airflow thats for sure.

So I strayed away from a front mount rad because I worried that the water pump couldnt overcome the losses from pushing water way up front and back again.

We fried an aircooled VW engine trying a front mount oil cooler

Glass? None. Its all been taken out. (see pic)

If youve got anything to suggest, im all ears

I'm sure at one time,this idea was tried,and found to have too many negative attributes.
Then they did it like this,slowing the cooling air's velocity with ducts.
Small opening to large radiator,just like when Edgar Schmued designed the P51 Mustang's radiator duct.https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/North_America...and_development
Geoffrey de Havilland did it too,1937 or so.https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/De_Havilland_...ito#Development
https://www.google.ca/search?q=racecar+cool...r+cooling+ducts
Your choice of intercooler placement seems like a giant slowdown windbrake device,a plank in the wind.
Does your racecar have a passenger seat?A lot of room there,down low in the middle and out of the wind.

Click to view attachment
Create large pressure differentials on the sides of both rads with 'ducting'.
A snorkel duct to the intercooler will get a good flowthrough and temp and pressure diff.
I've seen people use packing tape covered cardboard to try out their ideas and later fabricate them of cfrp.
https://www.google.ca/search?q=fiberglass+o...-VkRSuYFhWmM%3A
https://www.google.ca/search?q=kitplanes+ai...roud+fiberglass
https://www.google.ca/search?q=epoxy+cfrp&a...PxRBNi2EnlnM%3A


https://www.google.ca/search?q=flying+wires...5mIs0kzqkJ0M%3A
The why of it,really.Streamlining of wires,the opposite of the thick foam covering of rollcages.

/
Another technique is the stretching of synthetic fabric and epoxy soaking,a layup on the resulting form,or plug.
Sometimes the form is incorporated into the part,as for speaker boxes.
https://www.google.ca/search?q=speaker+shro...nPnDM_1waATM%3A
https://www.google.ca/webhp?sourceid=chrome...+east+coast+usa
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