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57lincolnman
Brake lights went out. Turn signals and emergency flashers still work so I don't think it's the fuse. Bulbs are OK. Could it be the brake switch? Kind of scary driving without brake lights, so the car is in the garage until I can sort this out. Thoughts anyone?
oakdalecurtis
If you look at the attached electrical diagram and code sheet, you will see in row 51 that the brake switch is powered by the same lead that goes to your reverse lights (gray/brown stripe in row 52, M16 and M17). If your reverse lights work, you are getting power to your brake switch(F). If you are getting power to the switch but not to the brake lights, M2 and M4, I would conclude that you need a new switch. With the brake light switch depressed, check that you have power on the black/yellow stripe wire where it leaves the switch (54) to make sure it is the switch that is defective, and not a wire problem to the brake lights themselves.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
McMark
The brake switch is at the pedal cluster. Start with the easy stuff. There's two wires attached to the brake switch, simply use a test wire to connect those two wires together temporarily. If that makes the lights work, the switch is bad/corroded.

Also, there are a few variations based on year. Post what year your car is, or do like most people and add that info to your post Signature (via the My Controls link at the top of the page).
Eric_Shea
Did you mess with the pedal cluster at all? The switch armature may be on the wrong side of the washer now.
McMark
QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ Oct 16 2017, 10:10 AM) *

Did you mess with the pedal cluster at all? The switch armature may be on the wrong side of the washer now.

That would make the lights stay on. Not keep them from lighting.
theer
This recently happened to me. Failure mode is always-on, if the switch is good.

For the OP: what I learned is the brake switch is wired/spring-loaded to be in the "on" position. When you push the brake pedal the spring in the switch moves the armature to follow the pedal and make contact. When you release, the washer on the pedal pushes the armature back and breaks the contact.

Could be a faulty switch. Or the armature is hung up somehow and not fully releasing to make contact?



rhodyguy
The switch operation, adjustment and arm orientation is detailed on p.129 part 30 of your Haynes.
Lucky9146
@oakdalecurtis and anyone else.

No brake lights! Resurrecting this thread and asking for help.

Bulbs good

Reverse lights on the same circuit work, so apparently not the fuse

Just installed a new brake light switch and still no brake lights!

Have not messed with anything I can think of?

Electrical is my weak suit and wiring diagrams make my eyes hurt. Although I did find switch F and the brake lights on the diagram but do not understand very well what happens from there. idea.gif

Any suggestions appreciated.
Thanks!
white914.jpg



QUOTE(oakdalecurtis @ Oct 15 2017, 10:31 PM) *

If you look at the attached electrical diagram and code sheet, you will see in row 51 that the brake switch is powered by the same lead that goes to your reverse lights (gray/brown stripe in row 52, M16 and M17). If your reverse lights work, you are getting power to your brake switch(F). If you are getting power to the switch but not to the brake lights, M2 and M4, I would conclude that you need a new switch. With the brake light switch depressed, check that you have power on the black/yellow stripe wire where it leaves the switch (54) to make sure it is the switch that is defective, and not a wire problem to the brake lights themselves.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment


Lucky9146
OK problem solved!

It was the brake light switch after all.

I had not correctly adjusted the through on the new brake switch.

driving.gif white914.jpg
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