I really want to spray a bed liner inside the cabin but don't want anything that won't set up hard.. I plan to epoxy prime then bed liner og sorts then color.. Any suggestions? I don't want it to smell in the end.. Any thoughts?

PanelBilly showed up to my house Sat to show me his 914-6 and he did a very tasteful job with the bed liner spray which he used in the wheel well, in the engine bay, and on the rocker panels. (I think he even did this on the targa top). I wouldn't have guessed it would work so well, but it did. You should ping him for details.

Ok thanks will pm him..

Dont forget , you can get bed liner in colors....

I see that.. Probably will do that but again need to make sure it doesn't smell like a rubber factory ..

Does bed liner stick to paint?........what happens if the paint doesn't adhere well to the metal?
Just a thought.

Plan to do this on Taylor's car. We've got it up on the rotisserie the whole thing's been blasted and as soon as the metal work is done we're going to seal the entire underside of the car with truck bed liner tinted Alpine White. No need to put the rubberized undercoating on this one

I used it in my 73 conversion build. Hard as a rock. I suppose it would stick to paint if you roughed it up. I shot primer before I applied the bed liner. That was a couple of years ago.No smells other than an occasional fart.

Bed liner spray is heavy and lumpy. I'd expect it to be difficult to keep clean since you really won't want to hose the car out.

As for spraying the under side of the car why bother unless they plan on driving in the snow / salt. Even then, bodies generally don't rust in the middle of a panel, rust usually starts at a seam since there is a sharp edge that becomes difficult to seal.

My car has black epoxy ( PPG DP-- LF ) interior door sills / shifter tunnel and gray floors, it works just fine.

I'm curious why you want bedliner? I have reasons in mind, both pro and con. Mostly con.

We plan to use bed liner mainly because we plan to drive the car. That paint chips easier so rather than have to worry about ever doing anything under there again why not protect it?
I certainly don't want to use rubberized undercoating.

I understand on the underside of the car, makes sense to me, but I think the OP is asking about using it Inside the cabin.

I'm wondering why they would do that, seems to me a good prime and an epoxy, and the carpet kit (not to mention the heat shield) not sure what you woukld be gaining by going with bedliner INSIDe the cabin.

I'm all for protecting. I just hate the coatings that end up trapping moisture and making rust nests. Like the og foam, sealer, and tar we find in our cars.

If bedliner is in a different league, I get it. But if rust ever starts underneath it, you won't find it until it's a rotten mess. Which is why I tend to prefer paint and paying attention to it so you can see what's really going on with the metal, and not add excess weight.

From what I have read, you want rubberized undercoating under the car because it won’t chip from a rock strike. Something hard collects chips because it won’t absorb the impact. That’s why real undercoat won’t come off with blasting.

They make brush on / spray on soundproofing for inside the car.

Spray in bed liner isn't far away from rubberized undercoat.

If you are not planning on driving the car in salt / snow, Rustolem and a brush works just fine under the car. It drys soft, is pretty chip resistant and is easy to touch up. On cars that see any salt duty, I use Rusfre rust proofing black under car and tan for enclosed surfaces. The black skins over but stays soft unlike undercoating and the tan remains soft.

Besides, you will need to inspect and touch up bed liner once in a while as the coating is bound to crack at the seams, hold water and start to rust.

I'm going to guess that if you wanted a textured coating inside the cabin, why not a paint product like 3M Rocker Schutz?

I don't see how a bed liner product would be a good option, but that could be my own ignorance on different applications.

As far as adhesion, as long as the product (from body filler to bedliner) is applied within the correct time frame I think pretty much everything is going to stick to epoxy primer.

Personally I'm OK with epoxy primer, topcoat, and new asphalt mat. Once restored these cars will never see the kind of pre-restoration exposure that caused problems.

I may not have been clear in how I said it. We want the naked look. The truck beadliner is tough enough that a shovel isn't chipping it off. Tinted and having this much protection looks naked, especially with a white car.

Ok so some research and looks like monsta liner is what I saw.. Great stuff. I was thinking it would be great for an extra layer of sound deadening and durability.. I will definitely be doing this on the underside becuase I plan to drive the car .. It will help with rock chips from rocks thrown up inside the fenders..

Probably just spray epoxy primer and paint the inside..

Do you wonder if there should be different treatments underside vs inside?

Not sure what you mean??

I want to protect the wheel wells from dings from the inside cracking the paint on the topside of the fender. This also creates a good moisture barrier beyond the epoxy primer.. Thus wheel wells is my main concern.. Thought about it on bottom of the floorpan mostly becuase of sound and consistency with wheel wells.. Now inside thw cabin was just a thought.. .. Thinking outloud I guess.. I am only weeks away from epoxy priming so doing some research.

If you really know you aren't creating moisture traps. Go for it!

I am planning—if I ever get the rust repair done—Epoxy Primer then Upol Raptor tinted to Ivory White for the underneath and lizard skin sound for the inside of the passenger compartment and lizard skin sound and lizard skin heat for the engine side of the firewall. Ivory white paint over the lizard skin

I had the painter shoot bed liner on the bottom and wheel wells. But I was still concerned about the wheel wells getting junk thrown back into the tight spots. So the well liners are almost done, should be easy to clean. Best, MarkClick to view attachment

Thats what I am leaning towards

Exactly what I'm planning! Well, except for the Ivory White part...

Awesome, you can let me know how it works—I am so far behind and my girlfriend just bought a fixer upper (house) that means bathrooms and a kitchen remodel before I get back to my car

Hey Ben, if your going to run flared fenders, come see me and I can show you the brackets I made and give you some templates. Best, Mark

I make pickup truck wheel liners from dirt track racer plastic, it comes in 2 ft wide rolls and in many colors. Use a heat gun to warm the plastic ( it takes a while over a large area ) and you can bend and form.

This is great for the rear wheel wells as a simple U shape bolted to the bed flange works wonders.

Covered moisture traps lead to the worst kind of rust... the hidden cancer.

Sounds good.. Will do.. Maybe this winter..

Good point .. I typically do all my painting etc in the winter with the least amount of moisture possible.. I bare metal sprayed this car in December a few years back.Click to view attachment

Bautiful car MB. Is there bedliner in it?

Nope but it had that texture from the factory on the underside.. Thats kind of what I am after..

Seems there are lots of thoughts. Probably going to rethink and wait until primer on and make a decision..

Enough has been said. Just don't.
Drop in some removable rubber floor panels if you feel the need to capture your girlfriend's spilled drink or try and stop some sound. Take them out otherwise!

I used that stuff as the final coat on my sails and the removable Long covers. I used flat black and by design it kinda spits small thick specks. From 10' my sails look like factory.

I remember this stuff that cars had in there trunks in the 60s when I was small. It was called Zolatone and it was very durable and they had a lot of great colors. Spatter Paint

Bob B

Zolatone AIM Multicolor
Midnight Blue - 20 Series Stock Color Spatter Finish, 1 Gallon
Item #: ZOL 20-84-1
The Perfect OEM Finish
The Perfect Coating To Refinish Anything You Can Imagine
Fabulous Looking Tough Performing Zolatone 20 Multicolor Spatter Finishes
Zolatone is a durable coating that resists wear from abrasion scratching and chipping
Far tougher than regular paint

November 24, 2012

Despite the trunk bodywork being finished for a long time, I only recently got around to laying down some spatter paint. When it comes to spatter paint, you can either get the stuff in the rattle cans, or you can get quart cans made by a company called Zolatone and spray it with your own gun. I've seen rattle can jobs and they look nice, but the spots seem to be very fine and the texture is very heavy, so I thought I'd try the Zolatone stuff. I bought a quart of the Black/Aqua Zolatone which I believe is correct for '67 Pontiacs.Click to view attachment Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

I used a zolatone product on an equipment rack once. The stuff I used was just the bumpy bits, with no color—the bits were black and the liquid part was clear, You sprayed or brushed it on and then topcoat it with color. It was a very weird application—I did it with a brush—but very durable and professional looking. it was similar to the targa top finish. They make a few different products I don't remember which one this was.

You all have me thinking...

I'm nearing the point where I'll be having my chassis blasted and epoxy coated.
I'm thinking I may test out a couple of these products on the chassis to see how it turns out and decide which I like...then send it off to have it all removed!

I used this Eastwood "trunk paint" on another car and really liked how it turned out.

One thing I have to account for is that I have no trunk floor so my entire engine compartment/trunk area is exposed to heat and road grime so I'll need something that's "reasonably easy" to clean.

Eastwood does call out that this "must be sealed with Diamond Clear for Painted Surfaces".

I guess I can do that then dirty it all up and see how it tidies up. I'll certainly keep you posted on how it goes.

And could that be painted body color over?? I suppose chip guard would do the same thing.. That dries very hard as well.

Ben - I don't know about painting over it. If I did go that direction, I'd leave it as is. It strikes me as a very "American car" look, but with all the non P-car stuff in my car, it may play into the theme. We'll see.

Yes, kids this even carried into the 70's. This bare look gave one the sense a car was made of steel stampings not plastic and carpet.